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Old Jul 09, 2015, 01:28 PM
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I tell her RC is cheap !
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNug View Post
For fun, I did an advanced search in this thread for "glue" and username Daemon. It turned up 3 pages of results. LOL. I could have saved myself some typing.
Deamon has said repeatedly that CA will make a chemical bond with EPO. Spray one part with kicker, let it evaporate, apply CA to other side and join. After trying it it works well.
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Old Jul 17, 2015, 05:43 PM
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I'm wondering about the hinge mods people speak about on blogs/videos etc. How come eveyone is using these round hinges? What's making everyone pick them instead of good old flat hinges?
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Old Jul 17, 2015, 05:45 PM
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Not sure of the answer to that? I use the flat hinge style myself.

-Mike
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Old Jul 18, 2015, 08:19 AM
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I used packing tape. Easy and cheap and no need to wait for glue to dry!
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Old Jul 18, 2015, 08:19 AM
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hey whats burning?
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Me too. Flat is easier.
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Old Jul 18, 2015, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hofftari View Post
I'm wondering about the hinge mods people speak about on blogs/videos etc. How come eveyone is using these round hinges? What's making everyone pick them instead of good old flat hinges?
I use blenderm tape.
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Old Jul 18, 2015, 05:14 PM
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I need to replace my old 1680 so I'm thinking of getting the 2015 1680 1720mm model. My concern is that the canopy/pod no longer has a flat surface for mounting a gimbal (see pics below).

Does anyone still sell the flat foam mount? I think it previously came with a clear plastic windscreen?

Or what's the alternative these days??
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Old Jul 19, 2015, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. |2udie View Post
I need to replace my old 1680 so I'm thinking of getting the 2015 1680 1720mm model. My concern is that the canopy/pod no longer has a flat surface for mounting a gimbal (see pics below).

Does anyone still sell the flat foam mount? I think it previously came with a clear plastic windscreen?

Or what's the alternative these days??
My SW 1680/1720 Revolution has the foam canopy in two pieces, where the lower part has a large, flat surface for mounting FPV stuff. It has a sligth (3-5 degrees) forward slant, which I had to take into consideration when mounting my camera.
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 01:18 PM
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my 2015 1720 came with a 1 piece canopy. it had a sm,all amount cut out of it on a 30deg angle or so at the top, but not much use. I bought the plywood canopy for $8. fits perfectly.
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 01:30 PM
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if anyones interested, heres a good way to add landing gear.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...9#post32214559
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 03:47 PM
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I've gotten an issue while building my Skywalker that perhaps you guys could help me with.

The Control horns are impossible to center over the hinge line since the "gap" between the control surface and the main part is too wide. I've tried finding a store online that sells control horns that extend further towards the hinge line but without any results.

How did you solve this? Pics showing your control horns are most welcome!
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 11:42 PM
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The control horns don't need to be centered over the hinge line.
Letting them run a bit behind the line will give you some mechanical differential (more up
throw than down), which this plane needs anyway.
The only thing I recommend replacing is the pushrods and clevises. I usually
just run standard 2-56 rods with a Z-bend at the servo arm end, and clevis
at the control horn end.
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
The control horns don't need to be centered over the hinge line.
Letting them run a bit behind the line will give you some mechanical differential (more up
throw than down), which this plane needs anyway.
The only thing I recommend replacing is the pushrods and clevises. I usually
just run standard 2-56 rods with a Z-bend at the servo arm end, and clevis
at the control horn end.
That's all fine for the aileron, but what about the rudder? I came up with this idea that if I let the servo arm have the same angle in neutral position as the angle between the hinge line and the mounting hole for the linkage, then the offset will be compensated. I feel like this should work, am I correct?

Also, I run 1mm linkages and I plan to use linkage stoppers. Are they really that worse off compared to clevises?
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 09:37 AM
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Yes, if you make the servo arm parallel to the line between hinge and hole in the control
horn, you'll get equal throws. I've seen linkage stoppers loosen up and slide. Not a big deal for
the rudder, but wouldn't trust the elevator or ailerons to em.
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 09:59 AM
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Thanks. I'll go with linkage stoppers for the maiden flight and put an order for some clevises for the future
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