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Old Mar 28, 2015, 10:33 AM
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Tom Eutsler's Avatar
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ProDrenalin

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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
When I get a chance I'll see if I can create a decent one.
Tom, cuse my ignorance and not being up to date

what is the "ProDrenalin" ?

Thanks ................te
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Eutsler View Post
Tom, cuse my ignorance and not being up to date

what is the "ProDrenalin" ?

Thanks ................te
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post31022589
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 11:15 AM
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Updating this camera

I had bought this camera long ago and left it on the shelf don't know what software version does it have.
When tried to charge battery yellow led is lighting.
Why is it not green led as indicated on manual?
Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 11:27 AM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
Thanks, Tom! Can't wait for my Lens D to arrive. For those who have a #16 Lens D and didn't see the announcement on the Mobius threads, read Tom's blog post about ProDrenalin (and how to get a 20% discount) here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post31022589
Thanks for adding the link info... I should have done that but forgot.
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by guruji View Post
I had bought this camera long ago and left it on the shelf don't know what software version does it have.
When tried to charge battery yellow led is lighting.
Why is it not green led as indicated on manual?
Thanks
'cos the yellow led is much brighter than the green one, & its a small hole. Switch camera OFF while still connected & then see if green is on.
Mike
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
'cos the yellow led is much brighter than the green one, & its a small hole. Switch camera OFF while still connected & then see if green is on.
Mike
Tried that but still green led not lighting
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 09:08 PM
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Cranfield U.K.
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Originally Posted by guruji View Post
Tried that but still green led not lighting
Uhhh either battery fully charged or led broken or camera is as mad as a march hare
Mike
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Last edited by empeabee; Mar 28, 2015 at 09:09 PM. Reason: battery instead of batter :(
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Old Mar 29, 2015, 06:38 AM
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Uhhh either battery fully charged or led broken or camera is as mad as a march hare
Mike
Yes maybe. My camera is the 808 one
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Old Yesterday, 11:25 AM
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The more I play with ICE (Microsoft's Image Composite Editor), making panoramas from videos, the more impressed I am. For the original example I posted (one page back), I held the #16 in portrait orientation to get a taller image, and then panned horizontally. But I've found that you can actually pan in a "C" or even "S" pattern, and ICE will stitch both horizontally and vertically.

One tip (which applies to any panoramic photography): It's natural to swing the camera in a wide arc, but try not to do that. That horizontal movement of the camera will create parallax differences in the frames which -- while modern software will try to compensate -- makes stitching harder and can often leave "fudged" artifacts. Instead, you want to try to pivot around the lens's "optical center" (the "nodal point" where light rays converge). Panoramic mounts allow precise adjustments that allow you to get nearly parallax-free sequences, but with the #16 and ICE, just trying to pivot around the lens is close enough.

(Edit: These were taken at Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, btw.)
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Old Yesterday, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
The more I play with ICE (Microsoft's Image Composite Editor), making panoramas from videos, the more impressed I am. For the original example I posted (one page back), I held the #16 in portrait orientation to get a taller image, and then panned horizontally. But I've found that you can actually pan in a "C" or even "S" pattern, and ICE will stitch both horizontally and vertically.

One tip (which applies to any panoramic photography): It's natural to swing the camera in a wide arc, but try not to do that. That horizontal movement of the camera will create parallax differences in the frames which -- while modern software will try to compensate -- makes stitching harder and can often leave "fudged" artifacts. Instead, you want to try to pivot around the lens's "optical center" (the "nodal point" where light rays converge). Panoramic mounts allow precise adjustments that allow you to get nearly parallax-free sequences, but with the #16 and ICE, just trying to pivot around the lens is close enough.

(Edit: These were taken at Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, btw.)
I found panning horizontally while keeping the camera horizontal can still produce some nice panos if you have a lot of images to stitch, but they will create a concave downward curved composite picture as another artifact of the parallax differences. But this can be corrected or at least minimized by tilting the camera in the opposite direction (rolling it around the lens axis) as you pan, and varying the amount of roll proportionally with it's distance from what you want to be at the center of your composite image. In other words, start your pan at the left, say 30 deg. from your final image center with the camera rolled about 30 deg. to the right. Then proportionally diminish the amount of roll with each image such the camera is level as you approach the composite image center point. Then repeat the process in reverse as you move past the center to the right. It takes some practice to get this down, but ICE is pretty forgiving and since it can process video as we now know, a smooth slow pan and smooth slow rolling motion of the camera as you go should work quite well. I have not tried it yet, but will.
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Old Yesterday, 12:07 PM
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Thanks for the tip, Tom; I'll have to try that. It should also be noted that ICE has several different types of projection you can select from in the Stitch tab, so you can try each to see which gives the best results for a particular shot.

I think the #16 gives remarkable results for what it is, but if you have, say, a standard camcorder or a DSLR that shoots video, give that a try with ICE. I shoot panoramas with a Canon T3i and a panoramic mount, which gives great results, but the images are really much larger than is generally useful, especially for casual computer viewing. From now on, when I'm out shooting and want a quick panorama, I'm going to save myself a lot of time and trouble by shooting video and using ICE.
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Old Yesterday, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Here you go...

This works just for the 16:9 aspect ratio (1280x720 and 848x480) frame sizes of video or photos. It is not compatible with the 4:3 aspect ratio photo (1280x960) or video (640x480) frames sizes, but some of the profiles for other cameras seem to be a pretty good match for those.
I received my Lens D camera today (wow, that was quick shipping from eletoponline). The ProDrenalin profile works great; can't wait to fly it tomorrow. Thanks again!
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Old Yesterday, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
I received my Lens D camera today (wow, that was quick shipping from eletoponline). The ProDrenalin profile works great; can't wait to fly it tomorrow. Thanks again!
Maybe you can post a de-fished flight video link here? All my testing has been on the ground, and it would be good to see how the corrected flight video looks compared to the original.
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