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Old Feb 23, 2013, 01:05 PM
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wing spar

Okay guys another quick question my wing has a metal bar in it how can I go about replacing the metal wing spar for a wooden wing Joiner

Thanks Mark
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 05:11 PM
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It's not quite clear, yet...Are you replacing a metal dihedral joiner with wood?
Maybe a picture would help.

If it's a metal joiner, it should remain there.
Usually the wing is designed to work together, with the joiner and sockets..
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 07:57 PM
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Yes it's a round metal wing Joiner I want to take most of the dihedral out and replace the metal joiner with a wooden one
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 08:13 PM
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If the round joiner is a straight piece of tubing, the dihedral is built into the first few wing ribs.....This would require a wood joiner be built with reverse angles, to reduce the dihedral.

That COULD be done with plywood center pieces, filled out with balsa, to keep the weight down.

It would be an unorthodox solution, without cutting into the wing to relocate the tubing receivers.

Still would like pictures.
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 09:09 PM
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Would also most likely need to iinsert some appropiately angled TE stock to fill in the resulting gap as well.
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 09:40 PM
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This tube is in the wing at an angle and the round metal joiner is inserted in to the tube I would like to do away with the metal Joiner and do a wooden Joiner
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markhodges78 View Post
Yes it's a round metal wing Joiner I want to take most of the dihedral out and replace the metal joiner with a wooden one
There's a one word answer for this.... "don't".

If they use a metal joiner rod now then a wooden one simply will not be strong enough. You are just asking for a wing folding in flight. At most you could consider swaping the metal joiner for a carbon rod if you want to save a small amount of weight. But unless your model is quite small the weight saving from replacing the metal for carbon is not anything you'll notice.

Unless your wing has ailerons you do NOT want to remove the dihedral. The dihedral works with the rudder to generate the rolling action to cause the turn. Removing dihedral will make the rudder to rolling action slow and lazy. If your model is a rudder and elevator controlled model and the turning seems lazy then you actually want to INCREASE the dihedral.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 06:04 AM
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Now that we can see your problem, the dihedral can be removed most easily by cutting loose the tubes already installed in the wing. This is also the strongest way.

Some work is required of course, and some recovering.
You'd have to cut loose all the glued areas retaining the wing tubes, readjust the wing to the desired dihedral angle, the epoxy well.

Before any gluing, the wing must be blocked to the correct angles,being careful no warps are built in as the regluing is done.

As Mr. Matthews suggests, with out ailerons, you're wasting your time.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 08:20 AM
An itch?. Scratch build.
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Aeromax Four Star Bird ?

http://doublettrc.com/Aeromax-Four-S...-P2338393.aspx
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 09:05 AM
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The plane has ailerons it is a hobbico supper star 40 I am recovering the whole plane and taking care of the wing damage the metal wing Joiner is bent and I figured this would be the time to make any changes I was thinking it wouldn't be a big deal since I'm gonna have it tour apart...
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 09:24 AM
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If I was going to do away with the bar I would opt for Carbon fiber tubes, strenght without the weight.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 11:38 AM
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The reason for doing away with bar is because 1 it's bent(previous owner bent it to add dihedril ) and 2 I want to remove dihedril
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 01:52 PM
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The Hobbystar is best set up as a ruggedized model to withstand anything that you may do to it. As such the ONLY way that makes sense from a cost and strength view is to simply replace the metal rod with a same size piece of music wire from the local hobby shop.

It's quite possible that the previous owner bent the rod by accident during a hard pullout from a dive rather than on purpose. It's hard to say without seeing how springy the original rod is. But with cost cutting it's not hard to believe that the joiner rod might well not have been correctly hardened and tempered to the proper spring temper.

Also that rod has to withstand a very high bending load. A solid carbon replacement might do the trick but I would not slip in any old tube from the rack that happens to fit. A thin wall carbon tube would not be strong enough.

So your best bet is still to measure the diameter of the rod and buy a 3 foot length of the same size music wire. You'll need something like an angle grinder and a cut off disc to cut it as the music wire is tough stuff.

Do NOT use any old regular hardware store steel as that is mild steel and will most certainly bend on the first hard pullout and likely result in you crashing the model. It MUST BE the spring tempered music wire. Basically if you can bend it by hand then it's simply not the right stuff.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 06:49 PM
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The rod that's in there is only about a foot long...
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 05:25 PM
Jim C Patrick
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Why don't you just try taking the angle out of the bar? The wing rod is hardened but can be straightened. A vice-grip or large plier to hold the bar end, a hammers, and a block of thick wood like a 2x4 or 2x6. Hold the bar securely —if it flies loose it can damage something or someone— with the bend up on the wood. Hit the angle until it is straight.

Note that the SuperStar .40 is supposed to have some dihedral. The manual says with one wing flat on a surface, the other wingtip should be 3¼ to 4¼ off the surface.
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