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Old Jan 21, 2014, 08:46 AM
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Build Log
Snipe DLG Build 2014

Hi everyone!

Below will be the building methods I used for the new Snipe DLG.
I used most of the basic techniques shown in the manual. I also modified some of them using suggestions from others previous builds and a few things on my own.

I hope you enjoy.
Thanks for stopping by.

Dale
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 09:00 AM
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First I'd like to thank Barry from Kennedy Composites for getting this kit to me in-tacked and as promised.
I have worked with Barry in the past and have found him to be very pleasant and efficient.
He packs the kits very nicely and I have not received anything from him that was damaged in shipping.
Thanks again Barry!

Here are some pictures of the items that came in the box with bubble wrap and news paper. FedEx delivered quick and the box didn't have a mark on it.
Fragile stickers were all over it.

The finish is amazing... beautiful work!
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 09:12 AM
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Etched tail feathers :)

I decided to check the Rudder fit. It has etched marks on it for boom location and horn location. The Elevator also has the horn etched mark. Very nice touch! They lined up perfect so I began the horn installation.

I use masking tape to protect the parts as much as possible. I tape off the locations for the two horns. With a razor knife I perforated the carbon carful not to poke thru and out the other side of the pieces. Once I had them both cut, I ran the razor knife down through the foam till I could feel the carbon skin on the opposite side. I then gently scrapped the foam away from the carbon skin.

Test fitted the horns and then FOAM SAFE CA'd them both in quickly checking to make sure they were seated all the way in and plumb.
Very quick and easy!
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 09:20 AM
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Pull Springs

Well next thing to do was the springs for the tail feathers.

I used the supplied springs but modified the typical install here a bit.

I have seen in the past several bumps on the wings where the spring wore through the foam after time and pushed the carbon out forming a bump. I didn't want this to happen, so I took some precautions.

I first stripped off some sections of wire coverings and placed them on the springs.

Then I found that the Golden Rod push rod sleeves were the perfect fit to slide the spring and covering down in with a nice tight fit.

I marked the location of the holes needed and drilled holes in the wings.
I then put a drop of CA on the Golden Rod insert and placed them in the holes.

Gently slide the springs with the wire coverings into the sleeves! Worked Slick.

Springs felt strong. You can easily remove everything but the sleeve if you need to work on them.
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 09:41 AM
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Rudder mounting.

I screwed the wing on and then mounted the elevator and checked it to see if it was squared to the wing proper! There were no problems with the elevator not being level... Thank you RC God! I didn't want to have to make those adjustments.

I used some fine sand paper to scuff the area where the boom meets the rudder for better adhesion.

I taped the elevator and rudder flaps so they were both flat, so I could eye site the rudder position! It also looked very square and inline. The etched lines on the rudder were in the perfect spot.

I carefully tipped the nose of the plane up about 10 inches so the tail was lower. This will help to keep the CA from running up the inside of the boom and gluing your pull strings to the inside of the boom... It has happened to others so take care!

Now a last quick check for square and plumb.

Apply some CA where the top of the boom meets the rudder on both sides. Allow to dry then turn the plane upside down and keep the tail down. Now CA where the bottom of the boom meets the rudder.

Perfect again and very easy. This build was going very quickly at this point....
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 11:53 AM
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Pull Strings at the tail feathers!

I decided to attach the pull strings at the tail feathers next as I was worried that the pull strings would some how drop back into the boom making for a tough re-stringing.

I did both the rudder and the elevator, both the way the instructions showed but later I changed the pull string at the elevator as I didn't like the setup. I will show you both installs on the elevator.
On the rudder you slide the pull string through the sleeve then through the horn then back through the sleeve.... Leave a little tag then with small needle nose pliers, crimp near one end of the sleeve in one direction and then rotate the sleeve 90 degrees and crimp it again near the other end. Then trim the pull string tag. Super simple.

On the elevator they show a safety string for the cable, but after installing it that way, I didn't like it for several reasons, so I changed it up.

My reasons for changing are as follows:

I thought about why they put the safety string on there in the first place. There is a slot instead of a hole on the elevator horn.This is to allow removal of the elevator for travel. That's a great idea...

Then I thought, what if you have your plane turned off and you bump your elevator flap down. You create slack in the string and the pull string could possibly slip off... Then you would have to take off the elevator, pull the safety string and get the pull string back out, reattach and reinstall the elevator. hmmmm

Then I thought, there was this safety string sticking out of the boom and twisted around and glued to the boom.... hmmm Wasn't the idea of the horn inside the boom to decrease items that cause drag? The safety string outside does just the opposite... It can also be caught on something and torn loose.

So I dropped the safety string and added a small strip of balsa over the notch with CA. This locks the pull string on to the horn. It is easily removed if you want to take the elevator off. Just slide some temporary safety string through the pull string loop and tie it to the boom. Pop the end of the balsa loose and remove the pull string. Easy to reassemble. Hook pull string back on, glue the balsa back down. Remove the temporary safety string and reassemble the elevator. This can be done for travel too!

Now there is no string hanging out to get caught on anything (Weed, twigs, your finger, etc.) and there is less drag, less weight and possibly eliminate sound caused by the string... You can use anything you like to close up the notch, I picked balsa.

This may not work for everyone, but it works for me!
Here are both methods for the elevator.

Picture 3 shows pull string with safety string for elevator.
Make a standard pull string loop and crimp. Add safety string with a drop of CA, then I tied some thread over the safety sting and pull string with the improved clinch knot. Trimmed the tags and a drop of CA on the thread. You can look up the knot online. Then CA the safety string to the boom.
OR YOU CAN....
Forget the safety string, place the pull string on to the elevator horn, add a small strip of balsa and CA it down. See the horn and balsa picture, then imagine picture #5 without the pull string hanging out!
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 12:07 PM
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Aileron horns!

Next I removed the wing to begin installing the aileron horns.

I grabbed the two horns to test fit them. Right side in easy. Left side.....hmmmm I turned it 2 or 3 times trying to figure how to insert it.... hmmmmmm something was wrong....

I had gotten 2 right side horns in my kit! Ughhhhhh...
NOTE: Check each piece of the kit to make sure you have all the right pieces and none are broken...... nothing worse then waiting for a part...

A quick call to Barry at Kennedy Composites and he rushed me a new set or horns.... one of each. GO BARRY GO! He is always willing to please the customer. Thanks again Barry!

Now the left one fit nice also.

NOTE: Work the axles in the horn holes for a bit to make them operate smooth,,,, when I put them in, one was real tight and the shaft turned with the horn..... I worked it till the horn turns smooth on the shaft.

I glued the supplied spacers with CA to the bottom of the horns. I then took my razor knife and cleaned the underside of the wing skin, where the foam was removed at the factory. Some light sanding in the cavities and blow out the dust and prepare to glue.

I choose 20 min epoxy for this step as It gave me time to get them in, aligned and support shafts installed....

I coated both sides of the horn platforms and inside the cavity in the wing foam also. I then CA'd the shafts into the grooves. Clean up the excess epoxy. Set aside and waited till the next day.

This was the hardest part of the whole build for me... getting everything aligned... I didn't take pictures of this part of the build as its was a timing issue. It came out just like the instruction sheet shows.
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 12:14 PM
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The Gear!

I am using four of the DS285 servos, the 631B receiver, and for the batteries I will be using two of the 650mah lipos wired in parallel. I got the battery suggestion from Quacker who has also built a Snipe and suggested I use them. He loaned me a single and told me to hold it back 1/2" from the back of the nose plate, so the cone will clear the batteries and not rub.

I taped the carbon shaft and began laying out the gear. There is plenty of room.
You can use some rubber bands or some tape to hold the servos in place so you can slide the nose cone on to check clearances.

Remove the hold down tabs from all servos, I used the dremel.
Cover them with tape. Place a drop of CA on the bottom and hold in place on the boom. Glue the next one down with CA on the bottom and between the two servos to lock then together and down.

After all four were down, I added a few strips of carbon along the top with CA to lock them together even more.

I had to remove the top cover only on the receiver to get it to fit under the carbon shroud. They fit very nice like that.
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 02:36 PM
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Nice build! Your pics will help me when I build mine as I am using the same gear
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 02:51 PM
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The first time your elevator wire falls in the fuse - you will curse that you didn't leave the string on there

btw - if you tie the string to the back of the loop (not by the crimp) its WAY easier to pull the wire through the fuse again.......
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 04:21 PM
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Love that you are doing a COMPLETE build thread, cause that helps anyone else with their builds.

Having done two of these now, my advice would be to be careful with how much stuff you are adding. All those little pieces add up to grams.

The sleeves for the springs on the tails are a good example. Even though they are cool, you probably added a gram at the back end, which equates to a few grams up front to balance them out. So now you're 4 grams heavier to start...

Your servos start a ways back from the nose too because of the battery choice. if you can, I would use the 750 flat one cell from turnigy. It fits up right at the nose and would allow you to put everything at least a half an inch closer to the nose, and its able to fly for an hour or two without charge as well...

I guess it all really depends on how light or heavy you want it to be...

just my 2 cents.

t
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 04:25 PM
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Thanks Alex, more to come.... Good luck with your build!

Hi gtrbaby,
Well that actually happened to me already... I dropped it in there without the pull string on it.
I just held the nose of the plane up. Stuck a piece of light piano wire with a small hook bent into it in the hole and fished it right out. But I get your point!
The piece of balsa is pretty tough, and it really doesn't touch anything to make it come off. I feel confident with the way I did it. Time may tell...

I may take a look at a light piece of piano wire just glued to the edge above the pull string groove and let the wire run down the edge like the piece of balsa but don't glue below the groove so it works kind of like the spring keepers on the stock Aileron push rods. Maybe cut a slight groove in the bottom edge of the horn for the spring to set into...

And yes the way I attached the safety string to the pull string wasn't the best, it was tough getting it out that way... I thought about tying it to the loop but I thought that might mess up the loop in the horn.

This is my first Pull String plane.... Learning curve...
Thanks for your advice! I appreciate your insight and experience.
Dale
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 04:48 PM
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Hi ttraver,
Yes I knew they would add a little but I am not going for the lightest for sure.
I seem to like a bit of extra weight with my planes. Build them a little tougher as I am a bit rough on them.

The extra weight from those two 650mah batteries are going to eat up the tail weight. Just got the batteries today so will set them up and rebalance it.
I had the CG at 62 and it was right at 250g but have since taken some lead out of the front and moved CG back to 65... Flys better there and is lighter. My experience with these DLG's is limited and my flying skills with them is advanced beginner at best... I am not even sure I would notice an extra 1/2 oz.
I followed the Snipe thread from the beginning and noticed everyone adding weight in the nose, so I figured if I am going to add weight I might as well make it batteries...
If it gets too heavy, I can always change it up..

Maybe someone will learn something from this build.... a few good tips and a few "what not to do's ..... lol - Hey I really do appreciate your "2 cents"
Cheers!
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Old Jan 21, 2014, 05:02 PM
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Pull strings at Servos

I taped the rudder and elevator flaps in the neutral position.
Then ran the pull strings through the sleeves then through the horns then back through the sleeves, got tension and double crimped as before. EASY!!!
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Old Jan 22, 2014, 01:47 PM
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Ail linkage

Hi Dale, thanks for taking time to make a complete build log, very detailed info!
Just wondering how you did the Ail linkage? Seems you went the carbon rod way instead of factory supplied steel wire. Could you share some pic on how the linkage is built? Thanks

Kelly
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