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Old Jun 19, 2015, 04:41 PM
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Just got invoiced from SIG, so should ship today I hope. They are still old school on how they do things. After redoing the position on the side windows and applying the 1/8th skin I did some experimenting on shaping the side clear plastic. Never did that before. The heat gun did not work. Not even enough on the heat. I did a mold and put it in the oven. Started at 250F and kept going up until it got soft. Around 280 to 300 depending on soak time. That worked OK. Next time I will set the window frame for a less than 0.040.
The template for the windshield is done. I'm using 0.030 for that so it wont need heat bending.
Going to work on the top hatch hinges and latch soon. Still waiting on the incidence meter bar to arrive in the mail.
Did not hear back from Robart yet so I sent an email and Justin said he has not heard back from production yet but will let me know by Monday as to how much and how soon for the retracts. I will be ready to start on the wing maybe next week.
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 03:18 PM
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My incidence meter bar came in the mail yesterday, so I was able to install the tail feathers. Using shims to stabilize and level the fuse, and a case with my power supply and charger to hold it down, I set about to check all was straight. By just setting the spars down on the base the incidence came out nearly perfect. Still doing some filling and shaping.
I also ordered a hatch latch made by Pilot on Ebay. It's not to scale, but it should be less noticeable. Lot's of photo's.
Still looking for a tail wheel that would work on this.
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 03:23 PM
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You are certainly going to town on this build LOOKIN GOOD
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 03:24 PM
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Looking good. The side windows came out nice.

EJ
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Old Jun 22, 2015, 12:21 PM
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Looking real good Michael! What power plant have you decided on? I don't see the firewall drilled yet so have you decided?

Mike
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Old Jun 22, 2015, 05:41 PM
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I did a quick check of the side view of the plans. It looks like the DLE 55 will fit very nicely. Dont know yet if the cylinder will clear the cowl, it's too close to tell until I have it in hand.
I just got a response from Justin at Robart. the scale pneumatic retracts will be $449.00 with a two to three week lead time. So I said order it!
My spars and sheeting are on their way from SIG. No tracking so I have to think they will be here by end of the week. Then I can start on the wing.
Looking over the plans I see a few very minor errors. W-21, I could not find where this rectangular 1/8 ply piece could go. It is an unmarked servo tray mount for the aileron or flap servo. Also W-1 two each is also not marked on the plans but are there. And W-2B on the wing drawings is marked W-28. These are all very simple mistakes that would not get anyone confused. But one thing that made me have to think is this. W-2B rib is set in at an angle to match the end of the rear spar. There is a 1/8 inch difference between the wing front view and the wing top view. But I concluded to set this angle to the rear spar and not worry about the exact position according to the drawings. This is all getting very critical so I dont consider any of these small errors a problem.
Since I will start on the wing soon, I set how I will place the wing mounted servos. Three layers of 1/16 ply. One mounts to the sheeting on the inside, to that is another 1/16th layer mounted to that, the servo is mounted to the removable 1/16th ply that would make it flush with the underside exterior sheeting. And as always....photo's.
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 03:53 PM
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I found a box of wood from SIG on at my door yesterday. I just had to do something with it.
I used some 1/8 balsa to end cap the ribs as in the plans. I figured 2 inch wide with a center line would raise the wing off the table very well, it was a little short. This would prove to be only very close to be enough. By the time I got to W-1 it was in the dirt. I will have to release the wing from the table and shim it higher to be able to finish the wing. I would suggest a 2 1/2 inch wide 1/8 balsa for end caps for this.
There about 4 or 5 errors on the wing. W 6 & 7 were about 1/8 short at the front end. W 10 was cut off at the wrong leading edge and had to make it into a full rib. W 13 was about 1/8 short at the back end. W 2 just is not tall enough to match both spars and will have to be modified in place. Cap strips top and bottom to get it to match it's place. Might have to shim at both places where the center spar goes.
I set W 1 at a 6 degree angle to match the angle of the wing so that both W 1s of each wing will come together. W 2 A was set at an angle to match the fuse.
I am only half way into this first wing. More to come.
Here are some photo's and
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 03:04 PM
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How are the wings coming along Mike?
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 05:27 PM
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Haven't done a lot but did get the left wing off the board. I'm not really happy with it. Before sheeting the top side I got some gear blocks made to fit first, but will not install until I have them in hand.
I had a problem, the top main spar was dipping down 1/8th from W 10 to the tip. W 10 is where the second airfoil starts. I had to add the tip to this rib because it was missing on the cut out. I think this is a design error. The ribs with their center lines laid out show W 10 as a short rib where the second airfoil is. But the wing plan shows this rib going straight through to the primary leading edge. So I added that part. Had to, or their would be nothing between the second airfoil and the primary.
So I cut out about 5 of the spar webbing I had in place and broke loose all the ribs at the main spar to cheat about half of this tip dipping. So after sheeting the top and trimming all edges I was amazed to see the main spar on the bottom of the wing at the same spot. The outer wing at the main spar curves downward about 1/4 of an inch. Now the leading edge and trailing edge are straight! So I dont know what is going on. I know this wing has washout. But this is in the opposite direction. I will try and get a photo of an eyeball view of this. It is east to see with a straight edge.
I installed the left wing into the fuse. But I had to sand vigorously first. It was about 1/8 too tight. Even though it was right on with the plans. Bu taking one ply off the front and rear spar, I got a tight fit. But for now I can only get either one of the wing bolts in. One of the holes needs to be egg shaped to allow both.
Again, here are some photo's.
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Old Yesterday, 08:32 AM
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Its really looking good! Now are you keeping the wings as two piece and if so how are fitting them together a wood plug, hardware tube?

Mike
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Old Yesterday, 05:31 PM
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I have the right wing off the building table but can not really do more with them. I cant do the wing tips until I do the leading edge and trailing edge. I cant do that until I have the bottom's sheeted, and I cant do that until I have the landing gear. (two or more weeks) I cant mount the motor until I have the cowl. So I am left to doing some of the minor things like build the flaps and ailerons up.
I also tried a different approach to the top hatch. But had to reorder the latch after it broke.
I also found a semi scale tail wheel at my LHS. I had to cut off a good amount of the mount to make it fit, so there is not any spring to it.
Still a lot of work to do to it for now. And since I am back to work again now I can slow down on this build.
The wing will be in one piece later. For now it would be much easier to work on the two halves. Not going to change the mounting method, that would be way too much altering for me.
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Old Yesterday, 07:45 PM
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Here is the tail wheel I plan to use. These work great when you can't get at the rudder.

Tom.
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Old Yesterday, 07:46 PM
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Sorry here is the link. http://www.motionrc.com/freewing-mos...-landing-gear/
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Old Today, 08:11 AM
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Michael, what latch are you using and how does it open? I don't see any type lever on the outside.

Tom, what are the specs on that tail wheel?

Mike
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Old Today, 11:05 AM
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Mike; I am not sure it will hold up, but the wheel is 1.5" 2.7/8 from the bottom of the mount to the bottom of the wheel, and the mounting plate is 1"x2" wire is I think 2mm.

Tom.
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