No, sir. If you do this, you will likely flood the engine because the fuel will drain even when the engine's not running. You will want to have the outlet tube of your tank even with your intake. What engine are you using?

KP

I just noticed that you'll be using a SS. So, the "intake" that I mentioned is located at the bend in the grey tube where the air/fuel mixture enters the crankcase.

KP

Originally Posted by PyroMan

How should the tank be vertically in relation to the engine? Does it need to be higher than the fuel inlet on the engine so the fuel is gravity fed?

Originally Posted by kpriddle

No, sir. If you do this, you will likely flood the engine because the fuel will drain even when the engine's not running. You will want to have the outlet tube of your tank even with your intake. What engine are you using?

KP

Plus when you fly inverted(if that's something you do with that particular model) it might lean out.

What do ya'll recommend for hinges on this size of plane? I see there are the small nylon hinges and there is something called CA hinges. What work best?

I would use CA hinges, or possibly simply a Blenderm tape hinge.

Does the tape hinge go on before or after covering then?

Both types I mentioned would be done after covering.

I sewed my hinges on my Mini & so far it has held up fine. I regularly sew my hinges on my 1/2A models. Heres a pic you can see the hinges...Gene

Originally Posted by kpriddle

nicholas,

i've been watching your build and have enjoyed the progress. I am building a lanier indicator right now that is very similar in many ways to the minnie mambo.

Anyway, here is some inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txnydokp6og

awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sewing the hinges sound interesting. No matter which way I go it looks like I'll have to wait on hinging until I cover the plane.

I have the fuse built, I'm just waiting on electronics. I have the servos and I am waiting on a Berg 4L with a base loaded antenna to arrive. I also need to go to the hobby shop to pick up control horns, push rods, and possibly a receiver battery. Which reminds me . . . .

What should I use as a receiver battery? I was thinking this: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...k--dsh-/Detail but I don't know if it is too heavy for this size of plane.

Also for the push rods . . . I know someone suggested CF pushrods, but which would be better: CF rods or the Dubro mini push rod set (the kind that is the really thin music wire that goes inside of a plast tube) ?

Gene, is your plane controlled by an escapement?

That is way too big.

You want something like 250 to 350 maHr

If your servos can take it then LiFe might be a good choice.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYXA6&P=8

You mentioned getting a Berg with a base loaded antenna.
If it is a Castle Berg it does not need base loading, you can just shorten the antenna.
You will lose range, but only because it is shorter not because of any mismatch.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...08&postcount=8.

Okay. Here are the servos I plan to use:http://www.helipal.com/ek2-0508-digi...licopters.html
They are 8g Esky digital servos. I robbed them off of an old helicopter I once had. Is the only concern about using the pack that you linked to is the voltage? If so, then it should be 'okay' the specs say it can handle "standard voltage: 5VDC +/- 1V "

Yes, it is the CC Berg 4L. I am actually buying it off of someone here on RCG. If it didn't come with a base loaded antenna already on it, I would not be putting one on. Anyway, here is the link the the antenna it has on it http://ecsvr.com/RC-Direct/shopexd.asp?id=920

Yes, just make sure the servos can handle the voltage.

The Berg can handle it no problem , I ran them on 2S Lipo/8.4 volts all the time in my indoor models.

I always just cut the antenna short for the foamies, but you don;t need a lot of range in the gym
In my gliders I left them full length and let the excess dangle.

Just be sure to do a range check with the sticky antenna before you fly.

The servos you have will not take a 2S LiPo. They are rated for 5 +/- 1, or 4 to 6V. A fresh 2S Lipo puts out over 8V and is rated at 7.4V. To use a LiPo RX battery, you need a ubec (micro Battery Eliminator Circuit). Just like what’s in most ESC's

Once upon a time, all Receiver packs were 4 or 5 NiCad or NiMH cells rated at 4.8V and 6V respectively (1.2V cells in series). Radios were designed to work on both, hence everything is rated 4.8 to 6V.

Modern Receivers tend to be more tolerant of higher voltages, because they use so little power internally (digitally) that their internal regulator can often manage much higher voltage. The receiver digital side often runs on 3.3V but only uses a couple mA, and it only sends digital signals to the servos. The power going to the servos is a straight line from the battery. You can see the traces if you look under the pins.

Servos on the other hand use lots of current to drive the motor, so dealing with a higher voltage means dealing with lots of power. You can get high voltage servos, but they are still specialty equipment prized for their high speed (and priced accordingly).

I’d recommend any 500 to 1000 mAh 2S LiPo and a ubec (3-5 amp is fine). I ran all my ACE RC simple series planes with a standard 500mAh AA NiMH pack and managed 10 flights or more a session. Since you have the gear for electrics, there’s no point dealing with NiMH (even if your charger supports it).

Heads Up R/C has a couple ubec’s at $8 - 10. I’ve used regular ESC’s too by cutting the signal line on the receiver plug (so the ESC doesn’t get a motor signal). Something to consider if you have an old ESC lying around.