Originally Posted by UlteriorModem

I eluded to mixing several posts back. When I first started reading your latest post I was thinking to myself "Does he not know about endpoints and sub trims".

Sure. But, with V-tail mixing (at least on my DX7s), changing the "elevator" subtrim and endpoints affects both left and right servos equally and simultaneously. I needed to increase the left-servo's response *only*. Mixing Elev>Rudd allowed me to shift some of the right-side's "up" over to the left... effectively evening them out.

Perhaps, there is a more straight-forward way of doing it?

Originally Posted by UlteriorModem

On the subject of mixing I am looking into some throttle to elevator mix. Maybe because my firewall is beat to death...

Indeed -- that sounds like a thrust-line problem to me. Perhaps some carefully arranged washers, between the firewall and motor, can fix the misalignment?

Originally Posted by UlteriorModem

Anyhow glad your enjoying the plane. They sure eat up a lot of sky.

Boy, they sure do, eh? I love the slippery feel of this airplane.

[QUOTE=UlteriorModem;23378278] ......when the throttle is cut, the nose drops like a rock. ...

Maybe move CG back a tad?

Originally Posted by UlteriorModem

... I'm thinking a little down elevator to throttle up might work. ...

If you get in trouble on landing & have to peg it for a go-around just remember, keep in mind what you've got programmed & be ready on the climb-stick!
However much (or little) the mixture, I'd test it at altitude to see what happens if...., before trusting it. As you doubtless know, when you change the status quo on this plane, 'stuff' starts happenin' quickly. 8O

My tuppence......

Originally Posted by David Hipperson

Dear OldeMan, If in your older models you were using 15C, 20C or even 25C packs that progressive fall off in performance that you noticed in flight is quite normal.

Cool, I didn't know that was a "property" of C rating. I've always used 30c and higher packs as they are usually the same price as 20 or 25. Huh.

Originally Posted by David Hipperson

To john, Hi. Although I do have a couple of pack detectors I gave up using them. I rely entirely on my chargers which have screens displaying the values of each cell before, during and after charging or even during storage. Yes, I do put my packs into store form all the time when not in use. If storing for a long time pull the packs down to store rate and if you have an old beer refridgerator keep them in that.

I've got the typical 4 button charger (turnigy accucell-6). I was talking about the little pcbs with speakers that are supposed to detect and sound off when your battery drops below like 3.3v per cell in the air. Never worked right for me.

I'm very careful with my packs, especially since I lost 2 over the summer to various misadventures so I'm down to one 2200 3s 30c.

Originally Posted by OldeMan

Well, that is disappointing -- I thought one of these little gizmos would be just what I needed. I'm not happy with throttle timers because my style of flying changes with my whims. I can't pick one time that is meaningful on every flight. So I'd prefer to have the battery tell me when it's time to come down.

I have the same problem with timers. I'm anything but consistent. I guess it's down to discipline then to pay attention to a timer haha.

Your mileage may vary with the low voltage alarms. They just never worked right for me. I was also buying cheapies so maybe that has something to do with it, but they really don't appear to be complicated devices so maybe not. I'm sure like everything though, you get what you pay for.

Regarding cutting power fully, I've got a throttle cut off switch programmed. Very useful for this purpose and also for keeping fingers intact.

Regarding your vtail throws being uneven. I'm sure you've already hashed this out but doesn't hurt to mention it. From the factory, all of my servo arms were off center by one tooth either way. I took them off, centered my servos and put them back on, then used a tiny bit of subtrim to get them exactly 90 degress, and a tiny endpoint adjustment to get them even.

On my 9x transmitter, I didn't use the preloaded v-tail mix so I don't know what thats like, but my elevator and aileron are adjustable per channel, so maybe there is a way to "unlink" them like that on yours? Then again, you seemed to have solved your problem so maybe messing with it isn't needed

It just looks like this:

CH1
100% RUD
-100% ELE
CH2
100% ELE
100% RUD

and then each of the channels subtrim and endpoint are adjustable in a different menu

With most of us who are merely fun flying we may not need high 'C' rated packs. The only reason I happen to be using these 65s is simply because we have a local supplier who sells high quality packs at a reasonable price.

If you were to look (even if you can find a graph)at high 'C' Lipo you will find the graph has a brief fall off when power is drawn followed by a lengthy but very shallow drop before ending with an abrupt and very steep fall off.

On those lower 'C' rated cells we saw the same intial drop off followed by a gentle but continual fall off turning into a shape that more resembles a steepening curve. This is why we could notice the power fall off in flight and if we were wise would recognise the pack was telling us "time to land". Less easy with these newer packs.

Although I did move back to rudder earlier on I experimented with just elevator/aileron and I can say with honesty that the Blaze handled that perfectly as well. Just saying that if you do have problems rudder isn't vital. You will also find that many genuine warm/hot liners don't have rudder either. My Sprinter didn't and neither does the Siren.

Originally Posted by David Hipperson

...Although I did move back to rudder earlier on I experimented with just elevator/aileron and I can say with honesty that the Blaze handled that perfectly as well. Just saying that if you do have problems rudder isn't vital. You will also find that many genuine warm/hot liners don't have rudder either. My Sprinter didn't and neither does the Siren.

Good point. I'm no aerodynamics engineer but my understanding is that's one of the main benefits of V-Tails besides lessened drag - that they turn so cleanly & quickly. I read somewhere most of the highly regarded pylon racers have V's for that reason - it enables 'bank & yank' so racers don't have to be so concerned about time lost due to a wee rudder mismanagement.

The Blaze was my first experience with V-Tails. I wanted to try one for the reasons stated above, & experience the difference....you know, 'learn' about them. Also, about programming them in the Tx. So, win-win of sorts. Of course, as previously told the original plan was for a Dy-S but then 'those things happened'. I'm sure glad the Blaze was around to give me an 'out'!

(&.....Still luv that "slick" moniker.)

I rarely if ever touch my rudder. When I first started flying my only "skills" were from playing combat flying type games so "bank and yank" felt completely natural to me and so that was the way I learned. Now, whenever I try out the rudder on either of my planes I involuntarily kind of go "ughh". It just seems to kind of yaw the plane into a crab and then roll to whatever side, at which point you need to use the aileron anyway as opposite rudder won't roll back to center quickly enough. I'm sure it's different once you get used to it, but I don't like it. I can personally turn much better even using very small aileron and elevator inputs.

Off topic: Currently trying to decide between a Tech One Katana 3d foamie or TekSumo wing setup for christmas. I like the idea of zipping around with the wing, but I've never tried 3d either. Exciting stuff!

Thought you guys might get a kick. Look at this poor bastard. Sooo many rips in the middle area from catching wingtips, cartwheels, and hard landings in general. I'd like to look into nylon wing bolts to see if those would sheer off before the fuse rips.

Today it got too dark when I was flying and I lost depth perception against the overcast sky. I came around on final and realized too late that I was too far out, went through a tree, and nosed in hard, taking the nose almost completely off. Oh well. Not going to run out of glue any time soon.

The yellow glue is 5 minute epoxy which I've since quit using as i've discovered it's rather brittle and more so in the cold. I'm on to 30 minute epoxy now. More flexible and dries clear. Thinking about trying out that "Welders" glue.

The orange bit is a strap for my RX as it doesn't like to stay to the side when i'm shoving my battery back, even when stuck with velcro. It ain't pretty but neither is the blaze anymore.

Originally Posted by johnwohl

"...went through a tree, and ..."

(...and photo #2)
Ohhhhhhh! So that's where BBs come from!!
Would-a never guessed!!!

Originally Posted by johnwohl

Thought you guys might get a kick. Look at this poor bastard. ...

Now *that* is what I call an "experienced airplane".


(As my age advances, so does my appreciation for the "weathered" look.)

I am new to the Blaze and have only had 4 flights. I have had a Radian (went missing), Radian pro and Bixler plus a gaggle of planes and helicopters and would describe myself a vaguely experienced.

I have a problem with my Blaze I do not seem to be able to get on top of. I have to dial in lots of left aileron trim as it wants to keep turning right, (aileron roll turn not a rudder flat type turn). I have adjusted the control rods on the ailerons, especially the right, to get the back edge of the control surfaces in line with the back edge of the wing. The right aileron was about half the width of the foam high. As you would know these are factory set and I drilled a hole in the side of the protection nacelle to get to the screw. This has not improved the situation.

The fuselage looks straight and the wings and tail all measure OK and are in line.

Any suggestions please?

By the way my first take off nearly ended up in tears as I did not give it enough boot. My second take off was better and the Blaze started to climb vertically falling to the right and did a twisting loop about 50 m above the ground. I managed to save both situations, more by luck than judgement.

Originally Posted by Watdazit

I am new to the Blaze and have only had 4 flights. I have had a Radian (went missing), Radian pro and Bixler plus a gaggle of planes and helicopters and would describe myself a vaguely experienced.

I have a problem with my Blaze I do not seem to be able to get on top of. I have to dial in lots of left aileron trim as it wants to keep turning right, (aileron roll turn not a rudder flat type turn). I have adjusted the control rods on the ailerons, especially the right, to get the back edge of the control surfaces in line with the back edge of the wing. The right aileron was about half the width of the foam high. As you would know these are factory set and I drilled a hole in the side of the protection nacelle to get to the screw. This has not improved the situation.

The fuselage looks straight and the wings and tail all measure OK and are in line.

Any suggestions please?

By the way my first take off nearly ended up in tears as I did not give it enough boot. My second take off was better and the Blaze started to climb vertically falling to the right and did a twisting loop about 50 m above the ground. I managed to save both situations, more by luck than judgement.

Give the thread a once over. You'll find that a lot of people seem to have the same problem as yourself. I am lucky in that I don't have that problem. In fact mine always needs about 3 clicks of right aileron.

I don't remember if anyone came up with the root cause of the problem (I think I remember something with the wing shape or washout being uneven between the wing halves.. maybe?), but one of the solutions was to use a bit of a "spoiler" on the trailing edge of the outside right wing to keep that one pushing down a bit. I imagine it would affect top speed, but you would retain full aileron travel.

see here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=928

there is some good discussion regarding the left turn issue before and after.

In regards to how the control surfaces are set up from the factory, I found that none of my servo horns were installed correctly (as close to 90 degrees as possible) and were all at least one notch off, giving uneven throws. The tail ones are super easy to fix but the ailerons you will have to take off the covers. Don't worry, they are just held on with the white silicon type garbage that they used to glue everything else. Just run an exacto under the edges and it will come right off. The servos are held down with servo tape so just pull up on the base of the horn with a pliers or your fingers with a constant, steady pressure and it will give. I reattached everything with hot glue for ease of future removal.

I'm sure that there are more solutions that people have come up with, but I honestly can't remember and being a new owner you could probably benefit from having a look through the thread anyhow. Lots of good info.

Hope that helps a bit!

Originally Posted by StarHopper44

(...and photo #2)
Ohhhhhhh! So that's where BBs come from!!
Would-a never guessed!!!

You have to SCARE the BB tree to give up it's fruit. Death from above is a great option. Give it enough of a fright and it will even extrude a handy ziplock package for you. A couple pounds of plane with a pointy end coming in fast will make anyone pine for a change of underwear.

Originally Posted by OldeMan

Now *that* is what I call an "experienced airplane".


(As my age advances, so does my appreciation for the "weathered" look.)

My SkySurfer looks much the same. I'm one of those guys that has a lot of fun trying to fly just above my comfort level. Needless to say I crash A LOT as a result. If you aren't dying you aren't trying right? haha


On an unrelated note I took out the wooden "tray" in front. I got tired of gluing it back together. Does it really serve a purpose other than a temporary holder for those screws that get sucked inbetween the motor and fuselage? It can't be reinforcing anything, being so low in the fuselage. I can't really think of a force that having a flimsy wooden brace right there would help with.

Originally Posted by johnwohl

... I'm one of those guys that has a lot of fun trying to fly just above my comfort level. Needless to say I crash A LOT as a result. If you aren't dying you aren't trying right? haha ...

This plane was above my "comfort level"... but I'm growing into it now. My problem is still depth-perception. Three timed now, I've been captured by trees that suddenly jumped from "well-behind" to "just-in-front". My previous plane was an 800mm glider... white... foam. And this big one now appears to me to be closer than it really is. Still not accustomed to it -- hit a tree again today.

Watdazit,
Try to have a very careful look at the assembled model from the tail aspect. If possible get far enough back (a metre or two) so that your eyes can take in the full model. Are the wings identical in appearance or is there any minor twist to either? Just remember that this may be very slight, you don't need much to have a big effect especially under power.

If there is a small twist you may be abble to take it out simply by dis-assembling the wing and then carefully re-assembling. Just a little bit of juggling may do it. If this is not the case and you are stuck with just working off the servos the small amount of displacement "half the width of the thickness of the foam" (my clarification of what I think you meant) should not be a problem.

At the start of your take off though try to get away on less than full power and a a shallow climb. Any tendency to pull the Blaze up too steeply is taking you closer to the stall point and this will emphasise any problem even if minor.