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Old Mar 08, 2013, 07:00 AM
Obeying the law of gravity
Jeremy Kamutzki's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jul 2011
494 Posts
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Originally Posted by whiskykid View Post
once you have the ribs spread out and pined in place on the plans, making shure that they are strait up and down, take and put a couple drops of thin CA on the spars at each rib!

probably confusing as they can't be glued till all ribs are in place! don't get the ribs and sub ribs mixed up! make shure that the riblets and ribs that have the joining slots are at the center!

and that the riblits aren't unidirectional! there is a top and bottom!
Ok, I will probably use ca to tack them in place while the wood glue dries. Also, I'll remember that the riblets have a top and a bottom, thanks
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Kamutzki View Post
Ok, great. Thanks for clarifying that for me. I've noticed you drilled holes in the front edge of your ribs. Was that to remove weight?
You got me thinking there! I looked up my magazine article - it was written around August 2007, which means I built the model in early 2007 at best.

Holes in ribs. When covering a model in heatshrink film - this one was Monokote'd - it is possible to have the film stick down to so many ribs that when the film is finally heat-shrunk by hot air gun, the air inside expands and expands the film. I've also done less than ideally stiff wings by sticking the film down to every rib, which stiffens up the wing but the iron heat can puff the film in rib bays.

Those holes allow any hot air to expand through the wing, not just in a rib bay. They aren't very big, so don't affect strength or weight worth noticing.

Drilling holes in ribs to reduce weight is pretty much last ditch. If a rib was that heavy - as you well know, balsa has a great range of density - I'd rather replace it than mess around perforating it. Ribs can stand a few holes - most of my models have a paper tube from servo bay to centre for the servo lead, for one example - but you don't want to go too far with perforations to save a few gm overall.

Save you wondering. Years ago, I 'acquired' an old telescopic car radio aerial. Stripped it down, cut the sections down in length to 'convenient', sharpened up one end, taped up the other. Make great tools for fitting holes into balsa wood up to around 1/8".

D
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 10:45 AM
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Joined Dec 1996
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Oops - nearly forgot. Made these rib positioning jigs up years ago, real handy for holding ribs vertical while the glue sets.

Bought a length of alloy 'L' section stock from local big box hardware store - most seem to carry it, though you have to look in dark corners as its not that trendy. Cut into short lengths - 1/2" and 1" for mine, though its not critical. Drilled holes in both arms for pins - see photo.

Clamps - mine came from somewhere like 'Micro Mark' - MO modelling tools company. Most need to be light, so as not to cause balancing issues.

Hopefully the photo says more than I can drone on about. Best couple of hours messing with alloy I've had in a long while

D
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 11:59 AM
Obeying the law of gravity
Jeremy Kamutzki's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jul 2011
494 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
You got me thinking there! I looked up my magazine article - it was written around August 2007, which means I built the model in early 2007 at best.

Holes in ribs. When covering a model in heatshrink film - this one was Monokote'd - it is possible to have the film stick down to so many ribs that when the film is finally heat-shrunk by hot air gun, the air inside expands and expands the film. I've also done less than ideally stiff wings by sticking the film down to every rib, which stiffens up the wing but the iron heat can puff the film in rib bays.

Those holes allow any hot air to expand through the wing, not just in a rib bay. They aren't very big, so don't affect strength or weight worth noticing.

Drilling holes in ribs to reduce weight is pretty much last ditch. If a rib was that heavy - as you well know, balsa has a great range of density - I'd rather replace it than mess around perforating it. Ribs can stand a few holes - most of my models have a paper tube from servo bay to centre for the servo lead, for one example - but you don't want to go too far with perforations to save a few gm overall.

Save you wondering. Years ago, I 'acquired' an old telescopic car radio aerial. Stripped it down, cut the sections down in length to 'convenient', sharpened up one end, taped up the other. Make great tools for fitting holes into balsa wood up to around 1/8".

D
Ok, that makes sense. I'll do that then on my cub. I didn't realize that the covering was that airtight! When installing the covering (ultracote) do I want to stick it to every rib?
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 12:17 PM
team sleprock
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United States, WA, Port Angeles
Joined Dec 2009
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keep the questions coming, sorry can't help with pic's, as I am actually helping my son-inlaw build his, it is his first full on build also! so the planes at his house!

and as far as electrics go I am no help either! wet fuel kinda guy here!
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 02:20 PM
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and as far as electrics go I am no help either! wet fuel kinda guy here!
That's OK. There are plenty of us here that can help you make the transition back from the dark side!


Mike
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 04:38 PM
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That's OK. There are plenty of us here that can help you make the transition back from the dark side!


Mike
I occasionally miss going flying with the little amount of support gear needed to run a glow lump - finger stall, plug heater from two D cells and some wire to a connector and fuel. I know I should have spent a lot more on 'stuff' than that, but my engines kept on starting just fine.

But remembering what my then-new wife's face looked like when I came home smelling all funny from burnt engine fuel soon makes all the stuff needed for an electric model worthwhile...

D
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 05:57 PM
team sleprock
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United States, WA, Port Angeles
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I got nothing genst electricity! the only successful flight I seen today after I planted my 20cc failed experiment, and my son-inlaw broke his senioreta in 1/2, and el presidente flopped his extra on the runway, I was able to get a flight in with my UMX SBACH, in 10 ta 15 mph X winds!
but hey we all had fun doing it
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 06:41 PM
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One thing you might consider for sure when the time comes is to make the stab/ elevator in two halves that are able to plug into each other. The reason is that the covering at the fuselage to fin area will look 'tonnes' better! Just make little aluminum tubes and glue them into the fuselage to receive the stab halves. It's really easy to do- just looks difficult.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 09:20 PM
Obeying the law of gravity
Jeremy Kamutzki's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jul 2011
494 Posts
Electronics arrived tonight with my dad when he returned from a business trip in chicago. Now I will be able to plan it all out better.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 09:21 PM
Obeying the law of gravity
Jeremy Kamutzki's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jul 2011
494 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARUP View Post
One thing you might consider for sure when the time comes is to make the stab/ elevator in two halves that are able to plug into each other. The reason is that the covering at the fuselage to fin area will look 'tonnes' better! Just make little aluminum tubes and glue them into the fuselage to receive the stab halves. It's really easy to do- just looks difficult.
How would I keep the two halves together and on the fuselage? Would I use a screw that went through the stab half and the aluminum tube?
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 12:36 AM
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Just 5' epoxy glue stab in place after covering everything and use support wires like the real Cub did. I have pics of this if interested. Any repairs are easily remedied by cutting old stab off and using soldering iron to melt away the epoxy.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 12:42 AM
Obeying the law of gravity
Jeremy Kamutzki's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jul 2011
494 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARUP View Post
Just 5' epoxy glue stab in place after covering everything and use support wires like the real Cub did. I have pics of this if interested. Any repairs are easily remedied by cutting old stab off and using soldering iron to melt away the epoxy.
Ok, I thought you meant it was removable and that confused me. Pics would be great, just to clarify.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 08:36 PM
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PM sent. Just don't want to clog your thread w my pics.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 01:58 PM
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The idea of not having to cover around the tailplane/fus joints is good. I did it the kit way and the covering part was too much fun.

Adding the tailfeather bracing wires sounds good too. They are pretty obvious on the full sized Cub, so worth the effort whether they are structural or decorative.

D
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