HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jul 07, 2013, 10:37 PM
Registered User
ScotY's Avatar
Joined Feb 2001
2,811 Posts
Discussion
Ice 50 heatsink and case

I have an Ice 50 (purchased less than a year ago) that is too bulky for my application so I undid the screws and removed the case. The main board is still stuck to one of the two heatsinks. The smaller board detached itself from the main board at the connector. The smaller board also came unglued from it's heatsink.

What I would like to do is make this thing as much like a Lite version as possible so, have some questions...

Do I need to retain the heatsink that was attached to the smaller circuit board?
Can I remove the heatsink that's glued to the FETs?
If so, what's the safest way to do this?

Thanks!
ScotY is offline Find More Posts by ScotY
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jul 08, 2013, 04:34 AM
Registered User
ScotY's Avatar
Joined Feb 2001
2,811 Posts
Update...upon closer inspection, the outer green heatsink that was attached to the FETs easily detached itself. I read somewhere that the heatsinks were glued on with some sort of difficult to remove adhesive. What I'm seeing is a dark gray/black adhesive that is slightly rubbery but more rigid than something like silicone. For the most part, once the plastic case was removed, the controller could be disassembled very easily. Yes, I know my warranty is void.

So...updates to my questions...can I safely run this controller without the green heatsinks? Should I attempt to remove the residual adhesive stuck to the FETs to aid cooling? Should I remove the flat silver heatsink attached to the other side of the board?

I need some guidance on how to proceed. And before someone says to send it in, at this point I don't care to do that. It's either going to get used or end up in the trash can.

Thanks!
ScotY is offline Find More Posts by ScotY
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 08, 2013, 06:09 AM
A man with too many toys
United States
Joined Feb 2001
17,023 Posts
Without a heatsink of any king the rating will be way lower than 50 amps. Also the BEC rating will be lower. The ICE Lite has aluminum plate as a small heat sink.

The way you have it I would not go over 35 amps and not use the BEC for anything. Also use something to secure the small control board. If that gets loose FETS will loose control and it will go up in flames.

Why not get the new Edge Lite? I have one and it has a miniature heatsink and is rated at 50 amps and 8s input voltage.


.
RC Man is online now Find More Posts by RC Man
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 08, 2013, 11:51 AM
Registered User
ScotY's Avatar
Joined Feb 2001
2,811 Posts
Thanks for the info! I guess I should just retain the green heatsink but I need to leave the plastic case off. What should I use to glue it back on?
ScotY is offline Find More Posts by ScotY
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 08, 2013, 09:44 PM
Registered User
ScotY's Avatar
Joined Feb 2001
2,811 Posts
I called and spoke to Thomas at CC. He was very helpful and offered some advice, all under the premise that my warranty has been voided.

Option 1 - use a thermally conductive epoxy to glue the green heatsinks back on

Option 2 - use a thermal grease like Arctic Silver and mechanically secure the green heatsinks together

Option 3 - don't use the heatsinks and just wrap the controller with shrink wrap which is how the Lite version is put together.

Hope I understood what he was saying correctly. Just wanted to post this up in case anyone else wanted to do something similar.
ScotY is offline Find More Posts by ScotY
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 11, 2013, 04:54 PM
Registered User
Patrick del Castillo's Avatar
Olathe,KS,USA
Joined Oct 2000
2,651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotY View Post
I called and spoke to Thomas at CC. He was very helpful and offered some advice, all under the premise that my warranty has been voided.

Option 1 - use a thermally conductive epoxy to glue the green heatsinks back on

Option 2 - use a thermal grease like Arctic Silver and mechanically secure the green heatsinks together

Option 3 - don't use the heatsinks and just wrap the controller with shrink wrap which is how the Lite version is put together.

Hope I understood what he was saying correctly. Just wanted to post this up in case anyone else wanted to do something similar.
IF you use something like Artic Silver, make sure you use the non-electrically conductive versions... Or you may damage the ESC.

-Patrick
Patrick del Castillo is offline Find More Posts by Patrick del Castillo
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 11, 2013, 06:01 PM
Registered User
ScotY's Avatar
Joined Feb 2001
2,811 Posts
Hey Patrick,

Can you confirm the Ice Lite 50 uses no flat plate hearsink aside from the one on the inside between the two circuit boards?

I opted to take the lazy route and just shrink wrapped the controller back together without using any additional adhesive or grease. The heatsinks just sit atop the boards but there is no glued connection. The shrink wrap will inhibit cooling a little, but no worse than the Lite version. Unless you think this is very unwise, I'll try it like this and see how hot it runs.
ScotY is offline Find More Posts by ScotY
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanted Ice 50 or lite ice 50 hidaven Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 2 Mar 25, 2013 10:52 AM
Found Castle ICE 50 or ICE 75 (not the lite version) mjbennett9 Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 3 Feb 23, 2013 10:38 AM
Sold Castle Creations ICE 50 & ICE 100 ($90 for both) Ifly101 Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 1 Feb 02, 2013 02:48 AM
For Sale Nearly NIP CastleCreations ICE-50 - Trade for ICE Lite-50 old_dude Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 4 May 29, 2010 10:33 AM
Gallery Feigao powered EDF-50 with two GWS heatsinks keven64 Your Plane Photos 0 Jan 25, 2005 01:37 AM