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Old Mar 01, 2012, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1993 View Post
i had exactly that same problem on one of my new meritlines. when the cover is installed my green power light went off. in my case turned out to be those ridiculous white plastic "separators". after yanking them out with a pair of pliers everything worked fine.

does anyone know what function those serve (other than cause trouble)?
I think the white separators are to align the batteries AND cause problems
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:37 AM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Prof, I was gonna suggest to check the white separators when I first read about your troubles. Then I saw that you got it working, so I thought all was well, and I didn't write. Since we have more discussions about them, I guess I'll chime in.

Those white separators were designed to hold individual battery in place as you install them. Functionally, they are not all that useful. They are hardly necessary, but they do create some problems for some folks, especially, if people are using rechargeable batteries. In most cases, standard alkaline batteries don't have as much an issue with them. However, some batteries just have a "flatter" top than others. When that is the case, the separators may cause a gap between the "+" of one battery and the "-" of the other. And some other times, certain batteries are "fatter" than the barrels and create a similar disconnect, because they are stuck and not sliding.

So, if you are not getting a consistent power supply from the batteries, and your Tx is going on and off by itself, check for those situations. If your batteries are too fat, or too flat, try another kind. In some cases, doing what Dave did is the quickest solution. Just yank those separators out, and they won't be in the way.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:55 AM
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as jaapdub mentioned it may be necessary to lift the + tab too because of that shorter button on the top of rechargeable cells. i didnt have to do that to the s107 but it was needed on another type of tx (rf). moral of the story: if the green light dont go on look at those battery connections.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 08:52 PM
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I am only a two day owner of the little engineering marvel and have found that infrared controller based remote control doesn't do well in front of an operating plasma TV. Interesting phenomena to have the copter fall out of the sky.

THE SPRING LOADED THROTTLE
I wish you could just move the throttle to a position and park it like a normal RC throttle. The spring loading is annoying to control. Anybody done a simple mod of eliminating the spring?
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 09:31 PM
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theres quite a bit of discussion in this and other threads on how to do that but if you simply open the controller it will be immediately obvious.

several people have considered that no spring allows more control including myself when starting out. however i noticed that in contests with freinds and relatives all the winners either stayed with the spring or went back to it. im now convinced its necessary for precision control if you hold the tx in one hand and launch the copter with the other.

it is a choice though. lol!
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Spring removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
I am only a two day owner of the little engineering marvel and have found that infrared controller based remote control doesn't do well in front of an operating plasma TV. Interesting phenomena to have the copter fall out of the sky.

THE SPRING LOADED THROTTLE
I wish you could just move the throttle to a position and park it like a normal RC throttle. The spring loading is annoying to control. Anybody done a simple mod of eliminating the spring?
Google Syma S107 mods and there is a video that walks you through the removal of the spring. Sorry don't have the link, but I did it and it works great. Try putting the spring on like the video and it will give a little tension to keep the throttle where you want it.....
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:15 PM
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I had the controller apart before and saw the spring. I opened it up again and removed the screw that holds the spring. Closed it up but it will flop around so I put a dab of Welders glue on one side to tighten it up. Flying without the spring does require relearning to pull the throttle back.
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Last edited by Prof100; Mar 01, 2012 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 11:30 PM
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I'm not really inclined to remove my spring. I just put my thumb below the stick instead of on top of it and then the spring doesn't really bother me. And I like that I can just let go if I get into trouble and know it will cut the throttle.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nemebean View Post
I'm not really inclined to remove my spring. I just put my thumb below the stick instead of on top of it and then the spring doesn't really bother me. And I like that I can just let go if I get into trouble and know it will cut the throttle.
I just reinstalled the spring because I could not keep a consistent altitude without the spring. There is just too much slop in the throttle lever to eliminate the preload the spring provides. I am using your method and it's working fine.
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Last edited by Prof100; Mar 02, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 03:01 AM
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It's interesting to see how many people came to the same conclusion I did. I prefer flying my S107 with the spring on the throttle stick, too. I removed it at first and then I put it back.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 05:56 AM
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great minds think alike!
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 08:53 AM
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So my 1st 107G is only getting about 1:30 of flight time before its out of juice and can't get off the ground. I guess it's time to mod the battery to accept the 160mah batteries I use for my Champ.

Good thing my 107g #2 just arrived yesterday!

Is there a write up on how to modify it to run these smaller lipo's?
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Canada, BC, Burnaby
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I posted a thread about a mod to the controller to run the controllers from mains w/o batteries (to charge through controller w/o wasting batteries), and it shows the inside of one of the types of controllers and the location of the springs/etc:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1566344

Not all the controllers can have the spring removed. Some of them look like the one I modded above, but some have the same type of control as the right stick, but use it for both sticks so the springs/etc. are all internal to that tiny box.

HTH!
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Going through this thread and I must say, this little heli has quite the following.

I fly RC electric planes all the time. This is my first helicopter. So be patience with my ignorance.

Question: I noticed the wire piece (flybar?) is not balanced well. It wants to droop to one end. Should I balance it?
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Going through this thread and I must say, this little heli has quite the following.

I fly RC electric planes all the time. This is my first helicopter. So be patience with my ignorance.

Question: I noticed the wire piece (flybar?) is not balanced well. It wants to droop to one end. Should I balance it?
Welcome, Prof. Before you rule that the flybar is not balanced, which will be very unusual, because I have yet to encounter one, we should double check something.

You see, the flybar is linked to the upper rotors, and the upper rotors are pivoting, meaning that they are not always on straight. When they are pivoted to one side, that side is heavier, and it will drag the flybar down with it.

So, fully extend the upper blades straight out, making sure that the blades don't droop on one side or the other. Hopefully, by now the flybar looks very balanced.

However, if you're talking about having the flybar taken off the helicopter and while it is not linked to anything and it's off balance, then we have an issue.
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