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Old Oct 18, 2012, 11:58 PM
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United States, CA, Downey
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Help!
Best glue to attach plastic deck to the plastic hull???

So I am building the Italeria Schnellboot and I need to glue the deck to the hull and I was wondering how You guys would do it. it is all painted and both surfaces are plastic. need to find out which adhesive would work best, I need something slow so I can have some time to tape it down. I cant tape it and use MEK and epoxy is not good for plastic, plastic cement is messy and superglue sets to fast, I was thinkin about a bead of silicon, what do you think?
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 01:53 AM
Grumpa Tom
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What the he!! do the instructions say to use??
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 08:53 AM
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I am not sure why you would need to tape it down? If you used CA with accelerator it would be an instant bond and no tape would be required. Personaly I would use gorrila super glue with accelerator.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:24 AM
NeverAgainVolunteerYourse lf
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Plastic cement , you need to remove the paint on the mating surfaces, really is the best glue for the aplication, the revell glue comes with a syringe tip which makes for a neat small bead to be applied. You probably could tape the deck down, place a few beads where there is no tape, let ot dry, remove the tape and run a bead along the whole join
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Good old testers tube glue for plastic is your best bet. After it is dry seal along the edges with a liquid cement.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:20 AM
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OK maybe I wes not too clear in my request. Ist the inst. say to screw it down, which I intend to do, the problem is that the plastic has a tremendous bow in it thus the need to tape it down while the glue dries. and I know about the scrape the paint thing that was in reference to not using MEK as it would run an ruin the paint. This is a huge deck That is why I need something slow setting and can not use CA . The mating surfaces are finish painted and I need to attach them without ruining the two bonding areas as they will show.
This is something that I encountered in just this model from the need to make it RC the deck needed to go on last, with my other models I would attach the deck before the paint and not have to worry about the paint in this case I have to.
I was lookin for advice to this instance , It need to go down in one action and can not show from the out side the plastic cement would smoosh out. OH and also to seal the hull to water proof it.
I hope you now may see what i need to do??
I have thinkin and I think a small bead of clear silicon is how I am going to go.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherry1969 View Post
ICA with accelerator it would be an instant bond
Not sure I'd recommend CA and accelerator for this- I assume the italiari kit is polystyrene and I have seen this material get very brittle when hit with CA accelerator.

others may have seen better results.

I like the advice of using glues (solvents) designed for plastic models for this application-
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:08 PM
boat butcher
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I like to use Weldon #4. it's water thin, can be applied with a fine paint brush, and it only works on polycarbonate, acrylic, and styrene.

Mark
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Portland Oregon
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HELLO Jcopter.
This is Don the Rusbucket. I do understand on what your saying compleatly. For I did a few PT boats in Different scales during my years of building. Most of what I did was converted into RC.
OK with the way your thinking I feel it would be best for a couple of reasons. Number1 with silicon it will not hurt the plactic I use it many times. I would go with the clear . THE paintable kind. Number 2 you can put it on any thicknes you want it makes good seal and you have the time to set things up the way you want.
Number 3 What I realy like lets say for some reason and it did happen for some reason I you have to pull off the deck. you can do it with out hurting your deck or your paint or work.

Afterwords just clean off of the silicon and put on another seal and your ready to go. YOU can also wipe off the extra . then when it when it drys just rub off what is remaining .
That is how I use to do it . FOR me it would work grate.
I allways made sure my decks were set up whear I can reopen and get back in side for any reason.
BUT Like i say that is how I use ot do it on boats like whar your working with.
I have about 20 years of buiding untill I was force to retire for health reasons back in aug of this year.

. If your intested GO check out my work on model warships.com just look for don rc in the 2011 selection . JUST click on (whats new)
then look for the years. You will also see some of the pt boats that I did for my self and others.
Some the ships I still have some have more onto others .
THE last one I think I have is PT 41 scratch build . OK have fun and good luck I hope some of this advice will help . Others on scale ships boards dose know of me and my work.
I allways enjoy building . ONE Note on Ca besure to whear a mask and have alot of air around you and whear ever your working it is vetalated . I use alot of it I am now dealing with lung earatation 2nd time around so I retired from building.;-( keep us up dated on your work.
DON THE Portland Rustbucket.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Hey Thanks Rustbucket I too have been building for many years and also have a few of my models on Kirks website(Model Warships Underway.com). Just wondering I recently had to go to the hospital I had a collapsed lung and was wondering if the CA could have caused it, I thought that it may have been from the fiberglass I was sanding on with out a mask, I did not think of the CA and think of all the paint and everything else I do building a model WOW, But Now...
I have a 3M double filter mask and 3 doctors!!!
But back to the Model
That weldon is my glue of choice for plastic models such as this one and I used it on all the other parts especially when joining the keel/hull together, just melts the parts together but I do not have that option in this case.
I just cant use the usual method of attaching the deck
I need the working time, otherwise I would just run a brush of the weldon and be done with it
that would be my preferred choice. but I'm quite sure it would ruin the paint.
So I thought I would check here and get an idea of what other may have in mind?
I have never used the gorrila glue does it work for boats and which kind, I noticed thre are a few different kinds and are there any drawbacks from it? Maybe I should have some in my tool box
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcopter View Post
...I recently had to go to the hospital I had a collapsed lung and was wondering if the CA could have caused it, I thought that it may have been from the fiberglass I was sanding on with out a mask, I did not think of the CA and think of all the paint and everything else I do building a model WOW, But Now...
I have a 3M double filter mask and 3 doctors!!!
Wow is right, Jcopter! Reminder to all of us to take precautions- I know I haven't always... Take care!
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 04:58 PM
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Much Better Now...
but I think about all the stuff I have breathed in...
and I still don't know what caused it just went pop and I felt week andlike I was just sick
boy am I glad I finally went in...
Jcopter
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Western N.Y. winemaking country
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerominded View Post
Wow is right, Jcopter! Reminder to all of us to take precautions- I know I haven't always... Take care!
I don't use respirators at all, and seldom use masks because they get in the way of my line of sight.

No gloves either, because they interfere with your sense of touch.

Bear in mind that I do a LOT of fiberglassing, and have done it for over 30 years and I am still above ground without any ill effects.

Masks and stuff won't do much good if you don't have adequate ventilation in your work area, and I took measures a long time ago to make sure that I did---.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Check out the web for Loctite. They have a glue like Pattex, which is what you use.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by der kapitan View Post
IMasks and stuff won't do much good if you don't have adequate ventilation in your work area, and I took measures a long time ago to make sure that I did---.
I agree 100%- for glass layup work, a fresh air system is what one needs if they are working on big stuff and are trying to avoid fumes, not just a little 3M mask, etc. Always a good idea to avoid breathing dust though and masks do help there.
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