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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:34 PM
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All is well in my prediction of take-off manner and flight for mine.....
The fact it did take off in 22m of hard runway, though not a scale distance, just shows what a model CAN do if allowed, or made, to (even at 3.3Kg). And to do that I am using full throttle right from 'go', as it needs that to have the chance to be airborne in time (before hard runway runs out). So extending that take-off run will not be any issue - though if I use a cricket pitch, then that 'special case' is what it will need.

The stock AoA, as per measured on mine anyway, is the cause of all rotation issue. It is negative AoA. Even with a 7mm nose leg block, to raise the nose, it is still not level. By about 11mm blocking it is level.
No wonder it is so useless at taking off properly/cleanly! And needs notable elevator or TV use.

It is fine that the real one does use a flick of elevator (like many jets do), but that has no reference to the reason, and amount, compared to ours. For eg, they could do it to gain a bit of AoA to rotate 'easier'... versus ours MUST do it, and much larger scale, and even many cases needing TV also, just to rotate at all.
Just some low value of positive AoA (1,2,3 deg) will change the models lift off ability notably... seeing you will be coming off the prior negative AoA Stance.

I think a cornfield would come up a much greater height on the real Su, than grass on ours! LOL
The railing post/vertical could have been a Wind Turbine I guess (Though who ever has them in line with a airfield runway!!??).....hehe

The AoA levels (increases) I am talking about are SMALL. Even 0.5deg or so makes huge difference to lift. (take-off, flight, landing....) and just needs some lowish X amount more power to offset that.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
....The AoA levels (increases) I am talking about are SMALL. Even 0.5deg or so makes huge difference to lift. (take-off, flight, landing....) and just needs some lowish X amount more power to offset that.
Not my point. Since lighter or heavy can have the same AoA, the heavier will need more thrust and more speed with said given AoA. Thus the lighter is capable of going slower and doing a number of other things while you can get some characteristics from flight programming. But you're committed to the fat lady so have fun with it.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 06:25 AM
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Some more LEF work tonight......
I was thinking/planning as I was going yesterday and ended up gluing one LEF plywood face plate on... with PVA glue (white wood glue). It just felt like a good idea... but means a LONG time to dry! Hours... overnight....
Normally I would use epoxy, which then would be just 5 minutes or so!
Thus resuming tonight.....

I decided to make the good wing side LEF face up first, so then I can use it as a 'mirror' for building up the damaged side. So I sanded that plywood face down to match the LEF, then made the damaged side face plate from the dimensions and shape of that good side.
Then I glued the inboard LEF portion of that damaged side, this time with 5 minute epoxy (!!), and then the remaining 'scrunched' outboard piece. And once I sand off the face plate to suit the required LEF 'edge slopes' etc, I can build up the damaged LEF into one solid piecce again. I am not sure how.... I am leaning towards getting some coarse foam POWDER, from sanding, and mixing up a white glue 'filler' and build up the foam from that.
I will think a bit more over that part.....

The LEF face plate gets (has a few already) 'squared off U' slots in 6 places for the nylon flat pinned hinges. This to allow the hinge pivot section to sit within the LEF and the LEF to wing join line. After checking the spacings, and the hinge sizes, I decided that 6 would do fine.
Testing with two showed they worked exactly as planned and are highly hidden - but are going to be covered with a plastic film that goes from about 20mm behind the LEF join on the top of the wing, and wraps right around the LEF to its underside anyway.
Then on that lower side the PET 3C "Slide Cover" is glued on, to make the underside the 'complete surface' again, over the LEF joint gap.

So all in all it is all going to plan perfectly so far.....

The 2.5mm plywood face ended up being exactly what was needed - once glued on to the foam LEF and the twistability tested.. Any thinner would have been too flexible seeing this 2.5mm is just right. So that worked out very well.... a bit of luck in that 1.5mm to 2.5mm thickness choice ending up being the 2.5mm!!

I don't think I can get it all done by the weekend, but maybe JUST.....
I won't finish and paint it until test flown anyway.

...
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 09:47 AM
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AV8r if you have the Euro on your radio, copy the TV setup over to this model. Its the same.
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Hey guys, different subject here but I'm having a brain fart and need some advise. I'm trying to get my TV nozzles to follow my ailerons but no luck so far. AUX1 and AUX2, tv up and down. AUX3, tv nozzles left and right. How do I program my tv's to my ailerons? I think I'm over thinking this as it seems it shouldn't be this hard. Everything else works great. Anybody.....?
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Hi all, I have a new SU-35 kit i will be working on soon. the one thing i am still looking for is the servos. I dont want to go cheap but i dont want to break the bank. can i get some advice on good servos to use on this plane. I will be using a BEC to power everything, i have upgraded motors and ESC's. so just need some good servos and start the build. i bought a nice light system also should be great wen complete.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
AV8r if you have the Euro on your radio, copy the TV setup over to this model. Its the same.
Thanks Max, I got it now. A guy named freechip somewhere here has been helping out with this new radio (DX18) and he pretty much knows everything about this thing. I'm learning more and more about it with his help. I must say guys, if you get the chance to pick up one of these things, do it. Best radio I have ever had. I didn't think anything would ever come close to my JR8103 but this thing makes that look like a 4 channel radio. IMO.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JTAnimal View Post
Hi all, I have a new SU-35 kit i will be working on soon. the one thing i am still looking for is the servos. I dont want to go cheap but i dont want to break the bank. can i get some advice on good servos to use on this plane. I will be using a BEC to power everything, i have upgraded motors and ESC's. so just need some good servos and start the build. i bought a nice light system also should be great wen complete.
I think really the only servos that could use upgrading are the elevator and aileron servos, if you'd like. Can't remember any more what servos I have on the ailerons, but I think I have HS82MG on the elevators or the HS85MG is another.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 12:38 PM
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I think really the only servos that could use upgrading are the elevator and aileron servos, if you'd like. Can't remember any more what servos I have on the ailerons, but I think I have HS82MG on the elevators or the HS85MG is another.
Its a kit so its not that im upgrading, I need them to finish the kit. The first plane i bought has stock servos but i want to keep that plane stock for now. I want one stock for practice, and the second plane i want to make special. i have looked at the high tech servos but i will spend a lot to outfit all servos. I was thinking, maybe use thoes for the Ailerons and elevators but what to use for the TV and rudder ect.. hobby king servos?
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Tv servos I didn't replace but you can try TP90MG $9 servos for tv servos or HS65HB $21 servos.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 02:22 PM
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I am aslo building a kit su35, I am going to use HS85mg on elevators and ailerons, then HK HXT900's for everithing ealse.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 03:48 PM
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I looked at the HXT900 but they are a little small. do you know if they fit good? Torque KG-CM enough for the TV? good price!
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 03:56 PM
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I looked at the HXT900 but they are a little small. do you know if they fit good? Torque KG-CM enough for the TV? good price!
You could always take a look at the Corona line of servos like the one I linked. Not sure about the size you need to fit but they have many different ones (929, 939 etc.) and I've had good luck with them.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._0_10sec_.html
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Curious and just for my own information, how did Freechip suggest you set them up. I've spoken with both Freechip and Andy when the radio first came out going over a full house setup. Not sure if they have some uniqe way to do it now or that it still is just the same regardless. Remember the TV units for all the FW models are all the same. The way to control them doesn't differ and the mix instructions shouldn't change. So curious if there actual is something differeent that I'm just not aware of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by av8ersteve View Post
Thanks Max, I got it now. A guy named freechip somewhere here has been helping out with this new radio (DX18) and he pretty much knows everything about this thing. I'm learning more and more about it with his help. I must say guys, if you get the chance to pick up one of these things, do it. Best radio I have ever had. I didn't think anything would ever come close to my JR8103 but this thing makes that look like a 4 channel radio. IMO.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 05:15 PM
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No, nothing your not aware of I'm sure. I'm just still learning the programming options of this thing and am really enjoying it. Had problems with mixes already pre programmed to switches and I could get everything working right by dialing in sub trims to get certain channels centered then he walked me through how you could inhibit those pre set mixes so it would automatically center all the channels. Just things like that, that makes programming this thing so much easier.

Found this a bit ago. A WEALTH of input. I really enjoyed reading it.
http://www.ausairpower.net/APA-Su-35S-Flanker.html
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 05:57 PM
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AV8r: preprogrammed mixes? Did he get you to setup elevon mix to AUX1 and AUX2? Or did he use the optional User Programmable mixes as shown in the manual and applied them to Aux1/2?
What I'm trying to understand is, is the setup any different from the manual? From what I understand it doesn't need to be but if they came up witha different way is there a reason or advantage. Also if you later have questions how do I, I would like to have an idea that you have used a uniquely different setup. I'm even confused that if you have the Euro TV on the radio why it would need to differ.
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