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Old Jun 26, 2014, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rcguy1958 View Post
Seems I'm talking to myself right now. Started working on the 190, opened up the fan to allow cooling in, put 3 holes through the front to the battery bay for more cooling. Glad I took the motor out, the 4 screws that hold it to the mount plate weren't very tight and had no locktite so I remedied that also.
Very impressed with this plane so far, miles ahead of the quality of Durafly as far as I'm concerned.
I'd reinforce the retract pockets as well.
As far as quality my Durafly Old Crow is miles ahead of Dynam imo.
There's quite a bit I had to do to my Butcher bird and I've done none to my Old Crow. Actually I just had to add a.magnet to the canopy Is all.
Which Durafly birds do you have ?
I'm just curious if it's the older products is all.
Don't get me wrong I like the way my Dynam FW 109 flies but they need work as you can.see from this thread.
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 04:17 AM
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USA, NY, Poughkeepsie
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The P47, I did get the version after the toe in problem was resolved, but still needed to replace the esc, run it on 4 cell instead of 3( the reason I bought it was because I had a bunch of 3 cell 2200's...I couldn't get it to balance or fly well on 3 cells). My "quality" impression was based on the hardware, paint, smoothness of the foam and density of the foam.
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 01:12 PM
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Can't Comment on the P47,but the Old Crow does well for me on 3s. I also have a bunch of 2200 2450 3 s and have no problems balancing it.paint looks good as far as foam density I couldn't tell the difference.
Now my Buthcer bird is a different story as I'm running a Bigfoot 32 with a 60 amp plush esc on the stock prop,batteries are Turnigy 4s 3000 nano techs.
Check your power system as I had a problem with mine as of a few others I read about.
Good luck and have fun flying.

Max D.
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 03:44 PM
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I changed out the esc already...seemed to be a 50/50 split on that...some had problems....others didn't. I had a 45amp ZTW on hand and chucked that in for now, it also allows me to run 6 volts to the radio, added plus. ( my motor was stuttering on the dynam esc as well as the ztw.....but after changing timing and startup strength the stutter is completely gone)
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 11:57 PM
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Nice. Let's us know how it goes.
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Old Jun 27, 2014, 05:46 AM
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So made some progress. After shimming the retract mount with 2 popsicle sticks , I got the axle of the gear even with the leading edge of the wing. Had to move the wheel opening forward to allow the gear to seat . In the process now of re-inforcing the wing in that area and have cut a foam plug to use as filler at the back of the opening so the wheel pocket remains round. ( got a great wife and family...kids got me the plane for fathers day....wife got me a monster porter cable scroll saw....which is now making this very easy)
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 05:08 PM
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Finally got around to assembling the FW-190...I upgraded the power to 5S and dropped in a 70 amp ESC...She should go like snot!!!...I'm not really into all out speed but more into my models being able to perform large scale-like loops from level flight...5S w/the 70A ESC should fill the bill!!!...

I'm going to sell the stock ESC w/the anti back feed PC board...It is brand new and power has never been applied to it...Anyone need one of these???...PM me or respond here...

Kevin
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 08:42 PM
Santa Cruz, CA
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United States, CA, Santa Cruz
Joined Sep 2011
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Took the Dynam FW190 out to the field yesterday. A fiend took a great picture of it. Fun plane.
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 04:13 PM
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Took the Dynam FW190 out to the field yesterday. A fiend took a great picture of it. Fun plane.
MAN---That's a great looking FW-190!!!!...I like the repaint......

I started to weather mine a bit using chalk ground up into a fine powder...The flash kinda washes out the effect but when weathering a little bit goes a long way...Additionally, when I add the flat clear to the finish the weathering will pop a bit more...And from a few feet away you can't see the pigskin effect in the foam either.......To weather the prop I used lacquer thinner to remove the Dynam logo from each blade...This removes the finish from the prop so be careful not to overuse the lacquer thinner...Next, I used 600 grit wet/dry paper to give the prop a texture...I will preserve all of the weathering on the plane/prop with a couple of light coats of Krylon flat clear...(Heavy coats can damage the foam!!!)...The clear also removes the shiny finish from the stickers...

Kevin
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 05:32 PM
Santa Cruz, CA
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Thanks Kevin! It was a fun project. Great flying plane too.
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 06:24 PM
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+1 on your repaint karltrek....very nicely done.

You're weathering is looking good also Kevin...I agree with you 100 %.....a little weathering looks so much better. You just have to look at pics of the actual plane to get the idea. Some people get VERY carried away with panel lines. If an actual plane had that thick staining at every skin joint it would have to be literally falling apart. That light streaking you're doing is much more realistic...and it doesn't have to be on every inch of every line...and should always be streaking towards the tail( except at the gun barrels )
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Old Jul 17, 2014, 11:53 AM
No More Nitro Fumes for Me
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United States, PA, Rehrersburg
Joined Dec 2013
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I just cant seem to stop buying these Dynam's. just got a Focke Wulf from Nitro.

I usually glue the wings on my models, but I noticed that the elevator and rudder servo's are only accessible from under the wing.

Am I missing something or should I not plan on gluing the wings on this one?
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Old Jul 17, 2014, 01:54 PM
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I glued the wing halves together but don't intend to glue the wing to the fuse.
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Old Jul 18, 2014, 07:00 PM
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+1 on your repaint karltrek....very nicely done.

You're weathering is looking good also Kevin...I agree with you 100 %.....a little weathering looks so much better. You just have to look at pics of the actual plane to get the idea. Some people get VERY carried away with panel lines. If an actual plane had that thick staining at every skin joint it would have to be literally falling apart. That light streaking you're doing is much more realistic...and it doesn't have to be on every inch of every line...and should always be streaking towards the tail( except at the gun barrels )
THANKS!!!....I've seen some models that were waaaaay overdone concerning weathering...Some were weathered so much that if they exhibited that much weathering/grease/oil stains/etc I would have written up/fired my crew chief!!!...I know that in war planes can get weather worn---But not looking like they were leaking from every orifice!!!

Years ago I competed for "Best Scale Finish" with several planes and won many awards...But one of my friends made me take note that these planes were brand new at one time---So, how about some not so war weary paint jobs?!?!???...I told him that new airplanes do look good but it takes more skill to make a plane have that war weary "character"!!!....

Kevin
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Old Jul 18, 2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rcguy1958 View Post
I glued the wing halves together but don't intend to glue the wing to the fuse.
Ditto---I glued the wings together but not to the fuselage...

Kevin
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