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Old May 26, 2015, 03:04 AM
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Atleast It's in one piece
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Finaly got on to the facebook page for these little cars so will hopefully be able to get all the info from there
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Old May 26, 2015, 11:06 AM
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I use atomic spoke wheels. All seem to have a bit of play. Need to get some shims
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Old Oct 03, 2015, 04:12 PM
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huggin dat apex!
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How's car going?
Going to switch motor for 12k an see how goes at club tomorz
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Old Nov 29, 2015, 04:27 PM
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Hey, I had a Mini-z about 15 years ago, and am looking at getting back into micro rc cars again. I have been doing some research but can't make up my mind.... This guy says MR03? http://miniracingpro.com/kyosho-mini-z-mr03-vs-atomic-amz/ but i have read a lot of good things about the AMZ? Doese anyone have a very strong opinion?
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Old Apr 23, 2016, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_Dean View Post
Hey, I had a Mini-z about 15 years ago, and am looking at getting back into micro rc cars again. I have been doing some research but can't make up my mind.... This guy says MR03? http://miniracingpro.com/kyosho-mini-z-mr03-vs-atomic-amz/ but i have read a lot of good things about the AMZ? Doese anyone have a very strong opinion?
Look at the latest comment...

Fanboyism sucks. Terrible writing. Brushless motor and LiPo FTW. All. Day. Long. You didn't have a MR-03 VE? Who the F races or runs alkalines with their low voltage and tiny current outputs? You must be a rich and ignorant basher if you think running alkalines is the way to go. Lastly, at the very least you should have either compared the MR-03 with the AMR (2WD AMZ with independent rear suspension beating the MR-03 live axle)... or, the AMZ with the MA-020 (with independent rear suspension, unlike the MA-010).
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Old Apr 23, 2016, 10:07 AM
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From that review... is it actually a review? Never mind that.
Isn't centre of gravity means how height from the ground? And to put something on one side is what called weight distribution, isn't it?
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Old Apr 25, 2016, 07:29 PM
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Looks like Atomic cars can only race in open class around here.

[Anyone have more info on the new BZ belt-driven model? EDIT: Nevermind. Found the new thread. Sorry to hijack! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...php?t=2639620]
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Old May 10, 2016, 06:56 PM
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Received my AMZ RTR. Gotta say, pretty disappointed. The diff bevel gears skip front and rear, the tires were mounted by a 3 year old, steering doesn't center, braking is non-existant, not very fast on 2S, wheel doesn't fit all the way onto axles, spins out everytime turning left, and the radio glitches a lot (blips of full throttle).

Update: Cranked up the EPA on the throttle/brake, where full throttle makes the ESC LED go from red to green, and full brake EPA. Now the acceleration/speed is better, and there is some braking (still weak though) and reverse speed is also higher. Also removed the offending left/rear upright, and pushed the wheel on while pushing the CVD from the inside. Now the wheel is seated all the way (though all four corners need shimming). Radio still glitches and blips full throttle when manipulating it at low speeds.
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Old May 10, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Diff gears slipping - If I hold the spur, and turn both rear (or front) wheels in the same direction, the diff gear slips/clicks, and the spur doesn't move. I think I need to shim the diffs.

Tweak - Fixed it. The spring pre-load adjusters kept moving upwards when running, so i just snugged them down so that the the springs are keeping pressure on them so they don't move. May have to put a drop of CA on the threads (without the adjusters on) to make for more resistance on the adjusters.

ESC calibration - No way to do this. I reset the stock transmitter's settings, then used the ESC/Rx combo unit's button to rebind. However, cannot calibrate the ESC using the single button. If you hold it then turn it on, it just binds. If you press/hold it after it is already on, it does not let you calibrate neutral (then press), full throttle (then press), and then full brake (then press). Also, anyone know what program card to use? I have a Hobbywing program card but the connector is different.

Radio reception - Works fine, range is good. The uncontrolled full throttle blasts seems to have gone away. However, at low speed manipulation, it will blip the throttle randomly. I know this is a sensorless system, but it goes beyond just not being smooth at low speeds.
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Old May 11, 2016, 02:03 PM
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I was able to calibrate the ESC as there is a recessed button next to the programming port. Still has intermittent blips of the throttle though.
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Old May 11, 2016, 05:00 PM
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As PN Racing is out of their pan car bodies, and the Rony Lola is unavailable, which of the Atomic VDS bodies fit the AMZ?

The VDS II 98mm doesn't have clearance for AWD Mini-Z's, so not sure if they would fit the AMZ.

The VDS 2.5 94mm is supposed to fit AWD Mini-Z's so should fit the AMZ.

Any advice?
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Old May 12, 2016, 02:28 AM
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Brand new AMZ RTR direct from Atomic. Even at slow throttle settings, it randomly glitches with full throttle bursts. I hope Atomic does the right thing and replaces my unit.
https://goo.gl/photos/3jFpxt8jMfpYireT6
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Old May 12, 2016, 03:52 AM
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I got the same thing with a cheap brushed ESC when overloading it. It drove my car up the wall and broke my bumper.

If you don't mind cheap looking there are bodies from Sinohobby, Porsche 911 with 98mm and BMW M3 with 102mm.
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Old May 16, 2016, 12:52 AM
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Atomic is sending me a new combo unit. Good customer support! Hope it works out (and that it's not a transmitter issue).

Thanks for the body info BeaverXT! I just fit the Atomic VDS II body (custom rear mount and moved Rx/ESC to the front.) Waiting on +3 offset rims and new tires. What do you guys think of my first Mini-Z body?
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Old May 16, 2016, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver_XT View Post
From that review... is it actually a review? Never mind that.
Isn't centre of gravity means how height from the ground? And to put something on one side is what called weight distribution, isn't it?

Center of gravity means that when you support the car there, it will be in balance. The center of gravity is not just in 2D plane though, it's to be seen in 3D space. So that is why with cars people speak about a low center of gravity, not referring to distance between bottom of the car and the ground, but at what position the center of the mass is. If you for instance would mount your battery on top of the upper deck, this would raise the center of gravity. If you mount it on the bottom of the chassis, the CoG is lower. If you mount it under the chassis, it's even lower, but then the wheels will no longer touch the ground.

Generally on cars you will want the CoG to be as low as possible, to reduce the car wanting to tilt in corners.



@TweakRacer: looking good!
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