Originally Posted by jwp2

It shouldnt be too hard to remove the firewall. I replaced mine and it came off pretty easy , prying it off a little at a time. I put the new one on using gorilla glue and electric tape to secure it into place while the glue dried. I hope this helps.
John.

OK, sounds simple enough. Since I already have a new firewall in my parts box I may as well use it. On the gorilla glue, did you apply it to just one of the surfaces? If so, did you apply it to the plastic firewall or the foam fuselage? Gorilla glue expands like crazy. I'd be a little concerned that when it expands, it might push the firewall away from the foam front of the plane thus potentially messing up the alignment of the firewall.

But maybe that's why you secured it with tape to hold it tight to the fuselage. That way the expansion of the glue will come out around the edges.

Any others used another kind of glue?

Over the last two years I've replaced a couple using 5 minute epoxy. I've been happy with the results.

Jim

I've used epoxy also. Helps to roughen up with sand paper the firewall plastic that will be in contact with the adhesive.

fotoflyersorry to hear about the unscheduled nose job. I've used Gorilla Glue for some time now. Good stuff! I don't recall this CA "expanding" unless it reacts to foam differently. I know it dries fairly firm with little give. I also like JB Weld (2 part epoxy) but I'm not sure how it would react to foam. I wish I could be more of a help but, working with foam is all new to me.

Well Guys, I took delivery at my LHS of my BNF SC yesterday. I already put some DuBro Sport wheels on her (all around). I've been doing some lurking and searching up and down the pages and it seems most of you are very content with the stock batteries....the 1300mah 15C/20C burst (Hobbyzone). I assume the Parkzone is rated the same as it does say for the SC. I'd like to have my daughter order 2. 1 for X-Mass and 1 for my BD. How does this sound for a plan???

I forgot to mention. The spinner looks like it is rubbing against the cowl. I'm thinking of sanding the backside of the spinner. Does the spinner just pop off?

Mike.

The stock batteries are OK. Ones with a C rating of 25 or higher are better. Less sag in the later parts of flight and less chance of a brown out, but not a whole lot of difference.

Originally Posted by Chap1012

fotoflyersorry to hear about the unscheduled nose job. I've used Gorilla Glue for some time now. Good stuff! I don't recall this CA "expanding" unless it reacts to foam differently. I know it dries fairly firm with little give. I also like JB Weld (2 part epoxy) but I'm not sure how it would react to foam. I wish I could be more of a help but, working with foam is all new to me.

Well Guys, I took delivery at my LHS of my BNF SC yesterday. I already put some DuBro Sport wheels on her (all around). I've been doing some lurking and searching up and down the pages and it seems most of you are very content with the stock batteries....the 1300mah 15C/20C burst (Hobbyzone). I assume the Parkzone is rated the same as it does say for the SC. I'd like to have my daughter order 2. 1 for X-Mass and 1 for my BD. How does this sound for a plan???

I forgot to mention. The spinner looks like it is rubbing against the cowl. I'm thinking of sanding the backside of the spinner. Does the spinner just pop off?

Mike.

The stock 1300 battery works fine. You can't install a larger battery because ther is no room. The 1300 is already a tight fit and a hassle to install.

Do NOT just pull the spinner off! It is threaded on to the prop shaft, so you need to turn it ccw to remove it. The best way to do this is to pull the "ears" of the spinner forward so you have a good grip on the spinner. Then just hold on to the spinner and rotate the PROP cw (clockwise) until the spinner comes off.

If all you want to do now is to get it away from the cowl, just unscrew it until you have the clearance you want.
Gus

Thanks Gus. I'm soooo glad I didn't yank it. It looked like it was just popped on there...pheew

Mike.

Originally Posted by fotoflyer

Any others used another kind of glue?

I've used hot glue almost exclusively for repairs on the cub (including reattaching the firewall on a couple of planes).
Gorilla glue works great once you learn how to deal with it but I still prefer hot glue in most instances. Especially where weight is not a concern.

Originally Posted by fotoflyer

OK, sounds simple enough. Since I already have a new firewall in my parts box I may as well use it. On the gorilla glue, did you apply it to just one of the surfaces? If so, did you apply it to the plastic firewall or the foam fuselage? Gorilla glue expands like crazy. I'd be a little concerned that when it expands, it might push the firewall away from the foam front of the plane thus potentially messing up the alignment of the firewall.

But maybe that's why you secured it with tape to hold it tight to the fuselage. That way the expansion of the glue will come out around the edges.

Any others used another kind of glue?

I did use the tape to keep the firewall in place while the glue dried/expanded. It worked pretty good and didnt allow the firewall move one bit.

I would like to install an inexpensive keychain type video camera on my Super Cub. Can anyone make a recommendation?

Originally Posted by theiting

I would like to install an inexpensive keychain type video camera on my Super Cub. Can anyone make a recommendation?

I just picked one up off eBay really cheap, less than £10 including delivery and memory card. They're even cheaper in the states. Just search on 808 video and something should come up. They are all pretty much the same quality.

Originally Posted by theiting

I would like to install an inexpensive keychain type video camera on my Super Cub. Can anyone make a recommendation?

There are some exstensive threads on the 808 cams here. I have a couple of the 808 #16 versions and I have been very pleased. There are older versions on ebay so try to get athe 16 or at least the 11 as the older versions record lessor quality images.

This thread includes a list of trusted ebay sellers.



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1556994

Jim

Originally Posted by WVrailfan

There are some exstensive threads on the 808 cams here. I have a couple of the 808 #16 versions and I have been very pleased. There are older versions on ebay so try to get athe 16 or at least the 11 as the older versions record lessor quality images.

This thread includes a list of trusted ebay sellers.



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1556994

Jim

That is an excellent thread especially the first few pages. fishycomics has a #16 808 set up on his SC. I'm sure he will chime in. He is also very well versed in these cams.

Watch out for the "fakes." !!!!

Mike.

Be SURE to buy the 808 #16 and then read up on how you can configure it. There are a lot of options, like you can have it take time-lapse photos at the interval you select, ot take video, lot of camera adjustments. Read the very extensive thread on this camera. A super amount of work has gone into the camera and it shows.

Do NOT buy from any vendor other than the ones on the authorized list. Instead of a camera you will get a piece of junk. The good cameras are about $40 each and that does NO include a micro SD card. I just buy those at my local MicroCenter store.

I mounted my camera near the leading edge of the wing such that it points down at an angle. An airplane in level flight is going to be centered vertically on the horizon. So if you mount the camera parallel to the plane, your video will be half sky and half ground. I don't care to waste all those pixels on the sky, that's why I angle my camera down. I want SOME sky to show because that give you persective, but the things on the ground are far more interesting to look at than the sky. I mounted my camera about halfway between the tip of the wing and the fuselage. If you mount it too close to the fuselage it will pick up the prop and you will get a ton of black lines through your whole video, not good. If you mount the camera too close to the tip of the wing, your camera will be moving up and down more. So the compromise is half way.

On planes that have their props on the wing or a pusher prop plane, I mount the camera right on the nose of the plane. This gives the most solid looking video because you will have the least roll there. Also, do NOT try to cushion your camera with some soft foam or something, that will just cause it to vibrate more and you will get the hated "jelly" effect. It's best to mount it with double-sided foam tape, but Velcro is ok if it's nice and tight.

You'll enjoy the videos a lot, I do.

Gus

I have bent a few prop shafts on my Super Cub from nose-in landings. So I bought several replacements - you have to buy the whole assembly. Here's my problem. In EVERY new assembly I bought, the plastic gear on the prop shaft is NOT centered on the shaft. In other words the hole in the plastic gear was NOT drilled in the exact center of the gear. So as the gear turns, the edge of the gear, where the teeth are, moves in and out. This is called "runout".

When I install one of these shafts with gear in my gearbox, and run it, first it makes a lot of noise, second, you can see the teeth of the plastic gear going in and out of mesh with the pinion gear on the motor. Some of these gears were so bad that they actually stopped rotating because the mesh got so tight.

I recently bought two assemblies from my LHS, and they were both bad. Then I bought two from HH and they were bad also. I have called HH and they basically say - that's the way it is - that I'm the first one that has complained. Well, yes, you COULD fly with this situation, it's very noisy and makes the whole plane vibrate (this is the same plane with the 808 #16 camera on it, so I don't like all this vibration).

Bottom line, have any of YOU had this runout problem or am I just too particular. I'm not a mechanical engineer, I'm and electrical engineer but either way I would not feel good if that was my design and my production tolerance. I would make sure the hole was drilled in the center of the plastic gear. How hard could that be anyway?

OK, I'm off my box. Thanks for any comments.
Gus