|Jul 07, 2005, 04:24 PM|
Blucor foam Do's & Don't - Chime in if you have more!
Bluecor, or Fan Fold Foam. Cool stuff. Some may know, some may not. heres what i learned from my first experience working with bluecor foam.
Bought a really cool little kit (wings & fuse - the important stuff) from www.steelheadproducts.com it was 15 bux, and the directions were really easy.
Handling - It will dent under a thumb really easily. Handle with care.
Cutting - use a razor blade &/or X-acto, dont drag cuts, sawing motions made for cleaner cuts, dragging the blade caused the foam to wrinkle.
Sanding - it sands MEGA fast - use light grit sandpaper, i used a popscicle stick as a sandblock even.. it will dissapear fast!
GLUES - Important - Use Polyurethane Glues (Gorilla Glue is the best stuff EVER) but its pricey! Elmers Pro-Bond works great too for a fraciton of the Gorilla price.
DO NOT USE Goop Products. If you build EPP you have some goop in your shop. Put it away while you have the fan fold foam (blucor) out on the workbench. IT WILL melt your foam. Im embarrassed to tell you how i figured this out.. This is the tail section it WAS flat when i put the Goop on it.. NOW look at it... *sigh*
It doesnt take much to get the parts to stick together, i used a thin layer on one surface, and then regular amount on the adjoining surface, and the Gorilla Glue did the rest. it feels VERY sturdy...
So there you have it. If i would have found a thread like this before i started, i would have saved some heartache and repair time, and could have been flying instead!
Feel free to add your tips & tricks cuz im sure others have used a LOT more of this FFF than I have.
The FLOYD by www.steelheadproducts.com. A few bux in balsa & spruce and it's in the air!
|Jul 08, 2005, 12:56 PM|
The foam wing and fuse of the FLOYD are made from Dow or OWENS CORNING Foam, the same stuff that Bluecore and FFF are made of. The adhesives used must be foam safe, as shown here with the "Attack of the tail section"
Low temp hot glues work fine too, but dont use HIGH temp, it will either melt the foam or seriously attack the strength of the foam area.
True silicone will work, but you need to do a test area first, some silicones use an etching agent that will attack the foam.
Whenever possible, I use white glue, hot glue and or PROBOND glues. JUST ALWAYS USE A "TEST STRIP" of some scrap foam first, let sit for 5 mins and see if the foam gets eaten- saves a lot of heartache and frustruation
|Jul 08, 2005, 01:27 PM|
You can actually get a better cut by draging the blade. Jus hold it a a very low angle.
Use krylon shortcuts or testors spray paint for foam. Use very light coats. Hold the can about 9-11 inches from the foam while spraying to avoid eating the foam.
Use a ***SHARP*** blade to make cuts.
If possible make wings with the grain going from wingtip to wingtip (---------) not (llllllllllll)
|Jul 08, 2005, 01:35 PM|
Put tape over areas that will be bent sharply.
Dont peel the skin back over itself. Pull backwards and upwards to remove the skin.
Remove the skin in areas where there will be a glue joint or hinge.
If possible remove the skin to save weight.
Sand the leading edge of flat plate wings.
|Jul 08, 2005, 01:44 PM|
Joined Mar 2005
I've always heard that you shouldn't remove the skin, because it will seriously compromise strength. I don't have any experience with Bluecore though, because i can't find any, so i can't really say. How much weight do you save by removing the film? One of the guys at my club has a bluecore plane, he knows where to get it. Have to ask him next time i see him.
|Jul 08, 2005, 06:38 PM|
Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
i agree with lift off that you get cleaner more accurate cuts if you drag the blade... but the blade MUST be sharp! you can get 100blade packs off of ebay for cheap.
be careful with the glue gun... the low temps work great and dry really fast, but they do not sand well and its easy to add weight unknowingly.
3M super77 works great for laminating. i love using Uhu Creativ (for styrofoam) for most of my builds. the gws glue works well too but is a little messy.
when sanding, try to use curved sanding blocks or to round out the corners of the sand paper because it can easily 'grab' part of your plane and put a gash into it.
i tend to try to leave as much of the covering as possible and just take it of for the areas of the glue joint and for areas where i plan on sanding.
a tip i have heard before is also to try and choose a bundle of FFF from the very bottom of the stack at lowes... or where ever. the weight of the stacks above it will help mush out those waves.
here is a pic of my most recent FFF creation (made of FFF, some light ply, uhu creativ and a touch of epoxy)
build thread can be found at: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389477
|Jan 03, 2015, 04:49 PM|
Joined Nov 2011
Hi, I've been using hot glue for quick builds on BluCor foam. Here is my 30" F-22 after painting with some latex grey and dark grey paints. Next is to add port and starboard lighting. Along with that I plan to use a servo Y on the throttle and use a brushed ESC to connect some blue LEDs to the rear of the vector thrust ports. All the best and Happy flying!
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