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Old Jan 25, 2015, 08:26 AM
Registered User
Mesa Falcon Fld, Arizona, United States
Joined Sep 2004
432 Posts
Sub Culture,

I have not read through the spec sheets on those too far, but they look like nice pieces of work.

Adam
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 08:51 AM
Man from Atlantis
Sub culture's Avatar
London
Joined Nov 2003
913 Posts
I have the 15A version's, and they're fine. Simple P and N channel designs, plug and play.
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 05:35 PM
Registered User
Mesa Falcon Fld, Arizona, United States
Joined Sep 2004
432 Posts
I am guessing, though that they have to be running ~10-20mOhm total resistance on their mosfets to be able to dissipate the head out of the board. That or the 15A is more of a burst rating and will not lead to long endurance. At 15A and a total of 30mOhm resistance, that little board will have to dissipate ~7W of heat.

The heat dissipation problem (from what I have found) is what makes our little subs challenging. There is a lot of heat, and an enclosed space with no moving air. Even with a little moving air, the area needed to dissipate the heat is drastically reduced.
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 07:08 PM
George Jure
Hamilton, Ontario
Joined Aug 2005
307 Posts
Hi Aeroengineer1

I was wondering about the heat dissipation. Would it be possible to run a wire attached to the heat sinks and have that wire run through a connector to the outside of the WTC in water to act as a heat drain?

George

My mini sub use is for a single drive 1/35 Bronco Sea Hund and a 1/350 Typhoon dual drive static diving submarines.
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 08:55 PM
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Mesa Falcon Fld, Arizona, United States
Joined Sep 2004
432 Posts
George, if needed, yes, a large gauge wire going out to the water would be a great heatsink, though, I would speculate, that in your configurations that you will not need it. The great thing is that you can start out without it, and if you see the boat just stopping, you will know that it is because of a thermal condition, and you can add it after the fact.

I think that the ESC will be large enough for each of these boats. At 7.2V and 1.8A, you are looking at 13W consumption per motor for max power. This should give you at least 5-6W to the prop (assuming a motor efficiency of around 40-45%).

Tom and his son will be testing these out on the little Revell Skipjack here soon and will give a report back. This will be the largest boat they are installed in to date for primary propulsion.

Adam
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Old Jan 26, 2015, 01:10 AM
George Jure
Hamilton, Ontario
Joined Aug 2005
307 Posts
Hi Adam

Thanks for the update and I will keep my eye out for their report here.

If it proves to be Good, could you repeat what the price for one would be?

Thanks Adam
George
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Old Jan 26, 2015, 06:09 AM
Man from Atlantis
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London
Joined Nov 2003
913 Posts
I agree I wouldn't want to run these ESC's at their maximum ratings, but that would be over a 100 watts, what sub needs that? Unless it's a speed machine, in which case I'd get a much higher rated esc like a microgyros unit or go brushless.

Getting rid of heat in a sub is fairly easier, you're surround by water, so just put the parts that get hot in thermal contact with it. Not really necessary for scale applications, but if you're making a speedy boat , some sort of extra cooling doesn't go amiss.

Tiny little subs like a 1/35th Seehund or the typhoon need a 2 or 3 watts at the most e.g. something like a servo motor. They'll still charge along at well above scale speed even at those modest powers.
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