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Old Mar 26, 2014, 01:04 PM
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rsrguy3's Avatar
United States, UT, Ogden
Joined Apr 2007
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Mini-HowTo
Show me your BOXES

Please post pics of your Hot Boxes and the steps to build as well as your controls and heat devices. Please consider this a how to.-Guy
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Old Mar 28, 2014, 04:09 AM
chetosmachine's Avatar
Madrid, Spain
Joined Sep 2004
1,101 Posts
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=173
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=184

2 years ago I changed the thermostat to an electronic one, and I am considering putting some insulation inside, but so far, 0 problems.
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Old Mar 28, 2014, 09:47 AM
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United States, UT, Ogden
Joined Apr 2007
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Cool!
what else is out there?
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Old Mar 29, 2014, 09:31 PM
Just fly it!
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Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsrguy3 View Post
Cool!
what else is out there?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1138304
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 12:15 AM
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United States, UT, Ogden
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Thanks Adam! -Guy
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 08:37 PM
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USA, CA, Rancho Cordova
Joined Jun 2004
58 Posts
my undeer the counter Hot Box

I made up a hot box , attached to the bottom side of my work bench top , trying to save space . I also made two smaller hot boxes to keep the resin warm .
The large one for curing parts ,measures 72 in long , 24 in wide , 16 in tall , it's lined with 1 in. tin foil sheeted thermal insulated foam board , I got from Home Depot.
I use two 300 Watt clear light bulbs , controlled by a digital thermostat controller , around $ 17.00 on ebay , they are very accurate , rated at 10 A. The Temp. Controller is plugged into a timer , so a 3.5 hr. @ 120 will usually give a near completed cure.
* Also available are Digital Temp. Controllers ( PID's ) with a built in timer / temperature adjusting programing , that will let you ramp up the temp over a given time span . So if you wanted to post cure after , say 5 - 6 hr's @ 100 , you can slowly ramp up the temperature and then drop it down over a time span , they call this " Ramp and Soak " they're also rated to over 500 deg .
Very cool ,plus they have a separate relay , rated at 30 A. , they run around $100.00 *

The curing box has no problem reaching 160 .
I normally keep the resin boxes at around 80 , & use one 200 Watt clear bulb per box.
I still need to provide a shield from the light bulb and the part. As continued exposure to the heat from the bulb can be a bit too much , if the parts is too close .
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 11:17 AM
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United States, UT, Ogden
Joined Apr 2007
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J,
I love the digi control and I'm amazed that the whole thing runs off of one bulb. Very nice! I noticed you don't use any shelving system. One question I have for every regards the set up, and move to the hot box. When I bag I do it the same as many of you. I move the mylar, glass, core to the bag and then I use the core beds and weight to insure a true finished wing. What is the same, and what is different about this process when using the Box? If I use the same process won't the core bed supports insulate against the heat generated in the hot box?-Guy
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Joined Jun 2004
58 Posts
The core beds may insulate the heat for a very short time, but the heat will permeate through to the cores / glass .
Correction , on my hot boxes, the curing box has two 300 W. bulbs , the resin boxes have one 200 W bulb per box.
JH
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