Originally Posted by theothercliff

Have you verified that other pictures of the board actually have these components in place?

I sure hope that HobbyKing isn't shipping a batch of rejects now. I wouldn't put it past them...

Components were there and board worked fine, it's just just me flying&crashing it at -9C

Originally Posted by theothercliff

One of the problems with any helicopter is rapid vertical decent. The heli gets caught in it's own downwash, a little off to one side and it tilts a lot. It will always be off to one side.

Adjust your P gain (aileron / elevator = roll / pitch) up or down to see what makes it better. I am guessing that you need to increase your P gain, but if you increase it too much, you will get oscillation. The way to increase it more without oscillation is to flash your ESC's with SimonK.

If you see oscillations in fast forward flight (or in wind) you need to reduce the P gain.

Here is a video about tuning your gains:
[

I posted after you and didn't see. My ESCs are flashed already. And I only see oscillation when it comes down fast.

Originally Posted by shafter

Help please !

Could somebody check value of the resistor R4 on KK2 board.

It's located on left-hand upper corner of PCB and missing on my semi-dead board.

I've just noticed that component U6 is also missing

Looking at mine R4 seems to have 0 1 A (or maybe R) written on it.

U6 is populated with a component with 5 legs and + ATQ written on it.

HTH.

cheers,
Andrew

Originally Posted by MoRaLeSD

It helps you fly in a stable no throttle up down all the time?????? My Tri can only go UP or DOWN not hover stable. 1 click of Throttle goes UP and 1 click down of throttle goes DOWN...

Minimum Throttle: 0
Height Dampening: 0
Height D. Limit : 30

Where they should be?

Your height dampening question has been answered. I believe that height dampening is what you need, but here are some more suggestions.

It is common when flying helicopters to take the transmitter apart and remove the throttle ratchet (clicker).

One other suggestion that I have is to use your throttle TRIM. Start with the click that climbs (two reasons to use the click that climbs) and adjust the throttle trim to make it stop climbing. You will have to adjust the trim frequently during the flight. You may even be able to push against the click a small amount to make it climb or decend. I have often wondered if having a spring center on the throttle stick would be desireable.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

Your height dampening question has been answered. I believe that height dampening is what you need, but here are some more suggestions.

It is common when flying helicopters to take the transmitter apart and remove the throttle ratchet (clicker).

One other suggestion that I have is to use your throttle TRIM. Start with the click that climbs (two reasons to use the click that climbs) and adjust the throttle trim to make it stop climbing. You will have to adjust the trim frequently during the flight. You may even be able to push against the click a small amount to make it climb or decend. I have often wondered if having a spring center on the throttle stick would be desireable.

Throttle isnt that of a problem, I will handle it but my concern is fast rise fast dropping. It it REALLY stable when I play around. I can make a good normal flight without oscillations. Even if I make a very fast forward Its ok. But if I go rapidly UP or make it drop fast it goes crazy.

PI(D) tuning, just google it already. It takes a while to wrap your head around, but below is a very simplified model of how the KK2 works.

(1) Stick movement * stick scaling -> (2) limit(Input * P gain + Error * I gain) -> (3) Mixer is the output stage, it takes the PI(D) values and mixes them to get motor output.

1 Is the input stage, it takes the stick movements and multiples them by the stick scaling
1a Height dampening adjusts the throttle input based on accelerometer
2 Is the PI(D) stage which takes the stick, gyro, and acc data to create pitch, roll, and yaw output data
3 Is the mixer that takes the throttle, pitch, roll, and yaw and translates them into motor commands ( M1 = throttle * m1 throttle mix + pitch * m1 pitch mix + roll * m1 roll mix + yaw * m1 yaw mix + m1 offset ).

Originally Posted by MoRaLeSD

Is there any thread or tutorial to explain all these settings? There are so many and I don't know what all these do. P-I Gain and Limit, Stick Scaling, H Damp(know that now), H D.Limit, Mixer Editor. Pffff confusing.......

You need to research and understand anything in the menu that you do not understand.

This is a good introduction.

Hobbyking's KK2 Control Board: THE WALKTHROUGH (10 min 12 sec)

Originally Posted by shafter

Help please !
Could somebody check value of the resistor R4 on KK2 board.
It's located on left-hand upper corner of PCB and missing on my semi-dead board.
I've just noticed that component U6 is also missing

Can you post a close up pic of that corner of the board?

Originally Posted by MoRaLeSD

It helps you fly in a stable no throttle up down all the time?????? My Tri can only go UP or DOWN not hover stable. 1 click of Throttle goes UP and 1 click down of throttle goes DOWN...

Minimum Throttle: 0
Height Dampening: 0
Height D. Limit : 30

Where they should be?

Yes, Any idea on settings?

Is it possible to do flips while in self level mode on the new FW 1.5?

Originally Posted by georgez

Is it possible to do flips while in self level mode on the new FW 1.5?

No, only in acro mode.

Originally Posted by georgez

Is it possible to do flips while in self level mode on the new FW 1.5?

Only if you are tumbling to the ground.

Originally Posted by crezzee

Does anyone know how to contact Rolf - Kapteinkuk, he does not accept private messages on here, or any other software experts (Mike Barton) able to help me with this issue?

I know you wish for this for multicopters but OpenAero2 can already do this.
All you need are output mixers. A v-tail mixer simply creates two new signals from the sum and difference of pitch and roll.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

I, perhaps we, don't understand why you would need to do that. Simply swap where the ESC's plug in the KK2 to make what you have work correctly.

Yes, in the mixing editor there are numbers, and some have negative signs. To swap the left and right motors on a tri you swap the numbers, but then the gyros and transmitter sticks are backwards and would need to be reversed also? PI Editor for the gyros? Will it accept the required negative sign for aileron? Stick scaling for the transmitter sticks. Will it accept the required negative sign for aileron?

I think as he has swapped wires between ESC and motor that he may just want to change the rotation.

If that is the case, the mix editor does not need changing unless the Yaw Gyro need reversing but he will know that as soon as he starts to lift.

On mine I have (from top) front left Clockwise, Front Right Anti Clockwise and Tail Anti Clockwise, works great like that.

I cannot fathom any reason that he would want to connect his motors in any order than the normal 1,2,3 for a Tricopter, it is just pointless to do so.
Thats why I assume it is just the rotation he is changing.

The Original KK2 firmware showed the Tri with motors all rotating same way, I believe it has changed in 1.4 etc now to the standard front two opposite and rear whatever.

Just finished my quad. This KK2 board is so easy to use even a PC dummy like me can use it. No PC needed. I got the frame at Value Hobby. It came with a camera gimble but I don't have it on there yet. You can order the frame without it. Got the motors and esc's from Headsuprc and the KK2 from HK. I just have the camera strapped on for now. I was anxious to fly it. The videos not very stable. It will be after I get the gimble on. Oh yeah and my flying skills kinda suck too.

Tom
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=mhee&v=UtyYg7tJkjs