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Old Yesterday, 09:23 AM
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Fidelity101's Avatar
United States, NY, Clarence Center
Joined Nov 2008
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I charged 4 identical batteries. Two on each port of the icharger 4010 and two on the fma chargelab 8x2. The batteries on the Icharger settled to 4.18v after the charge while the fma charger fully charged the batteries to 4.2v per cell at rest...although it took a few minutes longer to charge.

I'm also powering the Chargers with two deep cycle marine batteries and I get a serious spark when connecting the fma...more so than the Icharger for sure. I think I need to solder a resistor on the alligator clips to suppress the spark else it's going to reform the clips in short order
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Old Yesterday, 09:33 AM
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struggleforlife's Avatar
The Netherlands, LI, Gennep
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fidelity101 View Post
I charged 4 identical batteries. Two on each port of the icharger 4010 and two on the fma chargelab 8x2. The batteries on the Icharger settled to 4.18v after the charge while the fma charger fully charged the batteries to 4.2v per cell at rest...although it took a few minutes longer to charge.
It seems we all experience that. Maybe set end voltage at 4.22 to end at 4.2?
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Old Yesterday, 09:51 AM
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Fidelity101's Avatar
United States, NY, Clarence Center
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I've been hesitant to change any settings on the charger but that may work as a temp fix. It seems the charger goes from 10a charge rate to finish quickly so it doesn't take the time to finish the charge. I'm doing normal charge mode...it seems the fma does a better job but takes longer
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Old Yesterday, 09:55 AM
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Joined Jan 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fidelity101 View Post
I've been hesitant to change any settings on the charger but that may work as a temp fix. It seems the charger goes from 10a charge rate to finish quickly so it doesn't take the time to finish the charge. I'm doing normal charge mode...it seems the fma does a better job but takes longer
Which preset are you using on the PowerLab? Different presets have different termination rates. Now that you have your PowerLab connected to the Charge Control Software (CCS) you can view the preset parameters to see how the presets differ. Look at the termination tab for each preset in the CCS.
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Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM
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Joined Dec 2011
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You can use User Balance with custom settings for more accurate charge

User Balance
Balance Start = CV-0.2V
Balance Diff = 5mV
Balance Set Point = 2mV
Balance Over Charge = 0mV
Balance Done Delay = 1Min

If you need end voltage at 4.20, you can also try Balance Over Charge = 1 - 2mV.
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Last edited by vlad_vy; Yesterday at 11:01 AM.
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Old Yesterday, 11:58 AM
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You can also set the end current to less percent (e.g. 5%), then the charge will last longer and the lipo is more to 4.2v/cell, so this is what you want.

Or the best if you arenīt a high end user: ignore the little difference, it is nothing you will see in flight time, maybe 2 seconds, but who cares. And the lipo maybe does more cycles when it is not totally full charged. But more important is not to discharge under 3.7V/cell for a long life.
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Old Yesterday, 12:08 PM
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United States, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigemike View Post
I was actually hoping to use a bank of light bulbs or a resistor bank or something. I saw another thread where a guy used a resistor bank, but he wasn't clear on how it all went together...

I bought the charger for stock 17.5 racing where you want to dump your pack hard at like 20-30 amps and then recharge it at 30 amps to drop the IR and give a boost to the battery...

I have decided not to run 17.5 this year, but I still want to know how to make the charger work
Ahh, OK. Terminology strikes again.

Regenerative discharge is when you move the energy from one battery into another battery. Often into your source battery, maybe a deep-cycle lead acid.

What you're talking about is what the Duos call channel-to-channel discharge, into an external resistive load.

You put your pack(s) on one channel, and connect an appropriate resistive load to the other channel. The charger pulls from the packs, steps the voltage up/down as required, and sends it out to the resistors (which can be resistors, bulbs, etc, wired appropriately). Thus generating the heat outside the charger, which is much easier on the charger. And also allowing much higher-wattage and -amperage discharges, vs using the "internal" discharge function. The 308Duo can give you a 650W discharge this way, the 4010Duo can do 1000W.

This has been discussed numerous times, because it's a good subject, but a little confusing at first. It came up again within the last few weeks. Search the thread for "discharge".

These are some older discussions on the topic:
- This is a spreadsheet I made for helping people calculate an appropriate-resistance for what they need to build, depending on the discharge watts they want:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...e#post26838498
- This is an older post discussing it. Again, this is just one of several discussions.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...e#post27449057

Ask questions, people will help. But fortunately there is info out there already to help get started.
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Old Yesterday, 12:48 PM
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czorzella's Avatar
United States, FL, Kissimmee
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlad_vy View Post
You can use User Balance with custom settings for more accurate charge

User Balance
Balance Start = CV-0.2V
Balance Diff = 5mV
Balance Set Point = 2mV
Balance Over Charge = 0mV
Balance Done Delay = 1Min

If you need end voltage at 4.20, you can also try Balance Over Charge = 1 - 2mV.
You would also have to configure the iCharger to stop the balance charge only when the "End Current condition" and the "Balance condition" are both met; This is how I do and sometimes the whole charging process takes considerably longer to completion.
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