Originally Posted by Pa flyer

I
I also broke my fancy raised tail fin off my other 9116 with the dd tail. It handles so much like a 6 ch now that when I looked down at my tx for a second to change the rudder trim it slid right into the ground.

Actually that turned out to be a mixed blessing. With the raised stock tail motor it no longer had the tendency to drift to the right in a hover and the swashplate was level. With the extra weight of the dd tail motor it wanted to drift to the left. I remounted it in the stock location and was able to level the swashplate again for a stable hover. So while the raised tail was great for the stock motor it wasn't for the dd unless you center it with an aluminum bracket like another forum member did.(Sorry, I don't remember who it was. There are so many great ideas coming fast and furious that I can't keep track.)

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I feel behind in the times,,,Im still using a ruler and pencil to trace designs on blank Al. sheets ....Pa-- is this the mod ur talking about??

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Originally Posted by Pa flyer

I just came in from flying my 9116, placed it on the bench and went to put my tx on a shelf a few feet away. I heard the low voltage alarm on the heli start beeping and turned around to see the blades wrapped in a light cord and smoke pouring out! This pcb was practically brand new, did not have the mops bypassed and I put an 8amp fuse in line. I checked the tx and it was turned off. The main motor mosfet is cooked. DH qc strikes again! I just ordered a 912 pcb: hope that doesn't come out of the same factory as the 9116's.

I also broke my fancy raised tail fin off my other 9116 with the dd tail. It handles so much like a 6 ch now that when I looked down at my tx for a second to change the rudder trim it slid right into the ground.

Actually that turned out to be a mixed blessing. With the raised st ock tail motor it no longer had the tendency to drift to the right in a hover and the swashplate was level. With the extra weight of the dd tail motor it wanted to drift to the left. I remounted it in the stock location and was able to level the swashplate again for a stable hover. So while the raised tail was great for the stock motor it wasn't for the dd unless you center it with an aluminum bracket like another forum member did.(Sorry, I don't remember who it was. There are so many great ideas coming fast and furious that I can't keep track.)

Laidback racer: If you're reading this I compared the heli's back to back in the wind, one with the flybar restraint and the other without. They both flew well, with the restraint equipped one acting more like a 6 ch. The crash was due to pilot, not equipment error.

Cool, the spring rate you selected must be good. I might give it a go also

Originally Posted by letsstart78

hi guys, I am really glad to be a member of this forum otherwise I would be lost. i am learning a lot. i checked the forum about my problem but couldn't find the exactly same problem that i am facing now. problem is range. if the heli away from the tx 1 meter than it lost the signal. weird. I checked the tx with v911 so no problem with v911 but have problem with 9116 . I have full battery for heli and tx. please dont tell me I need a new pcb : )
cheers

I just verified the exact same problem with mine. Tx works fine with V911.

Where'd you buy your new PCB? Looks like we both got bum crap. And it cost be a new fuselage and almost everything else new I just put on the bird.

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Originally Posted by Steve_

Do either of you have a soldering iron and flux? I can probably walk you
through a repair, IF you have good cameras with clear close-ups.
These type of problems are rarely individual component failures,
except when you burn up output transistors.
Double Horse is not know for it's stellar soldering quality, and there is
a 75% chance there is a cold or incomplete (or wrong altogether)
soldering connection.


[ EDIT ] Never mind, if you crashed it hard, the gyro is probably toast.

LOL...no, it seems to fly fine...as long as I keep it within 5 feet. If there's something I can solder on it, I'll try. I had to solder the power leads onto it, since it came without them attached. In my case, the board fried after I plugged in a battery, possibly related to a worn out motor brush. The new PCB never worked.

Originally Posted by Steve_

Roger that. Are you saying for after a quad?

Or could I learn on this? Parts seem reasonable, and it has
a bunch of spares. It's built like a tank, and easy to see.

I am going to have a hard time seeing a quad, except at night
if it's all lit up.

I got to the point where I can hover the CT smoothly.
You have to think a split second ahead, and give it the input
before you are even sure it needs it.

Almost acts like the phasing problem I had on the 9116
after the custom links, but I checked it. I could have checked
it wrong I suppose. I only changed blade pitch and curves (mechanically),
and did not mess with the phasing.
The head speed is plenty high before the positive pitch lifts it..

I'm going to try it with the battery strapped to the bottom, and I'll bet it gets
much better.



I bid the broken HB FP V2 up to $46.00 so far, and am losing. Waiting for advice before
I bid any higher.

It has 3 packs, and look to be 2S 1000mAh from the charge connectors.
I thought the HB FP V2 was 3S.
I sent a note to seller to find out.

naw i believe they are 3s batteries if you zoom the pic it looks like 11.1v on the packs

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Originally Posted by Steve_

I noticed your safety on the swashplate ball links. Are yours that worn
that they pop off in normal flight? I can send you some

nope,,never had them pop off,,I use a small rubber band to squeeze them slightly to put tension on them---takes up slack and reduces swashplate vibration....
but thnx for offering parts,,,but I have plenty of parts in trying to maintain 2 of these wonderful pieces of craftsmanship sent down from the gods above.......cough cough cough

Plus there's still two days left and its going too be bid way up before its over