hmm

ok so this is the list of things i just bought,
the turnigy fan drive sk3 3659 1900kv- https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...90mm_EDF_.html

a hobbywing seaking 130 hv esc and led programming card- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-seaking-130HV

a sharpened and balanced octura 42mm x442 with 2.3" pitch- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x442

a sharpened and balanced octura 42mm x642 with 2.6" of pitch- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x642

the only thing i dont know is what size coupler to use for my motor-flexishaft, i know the motor has a 5mm shaft on it but im not sure what graupner used for the 606 flex drive systems??? i appreciate all the help since i have no problem building the boat once i can figure out what it needs

Hi AC,

As you indicated you have no experience with setting up boats, I won't be upset by the fact that you choose to ignore my advice regarding the motorchoice (1600Kv in stead of 1900Kv).

My point with the lower Kv motor is that the 1900Kv motor is already a handfull in the larger Apparition and will overpower the Systems.

Right, you say, than I won't apply full throttle during the entire run.
This will result in massive overheating of the ESC and possibly the motor.
Reason for this is that ESC's don't like running partial throttle for long periods of time, they'll heat up and die.

Example: I once tested a 2300Kv two pole motor in a 26" monohull, running on 4S.
I started with a small prop (40 mm) and found out I couldn't get beyond half throttle before the boat was overpowered and flipped
I wanted to know what the limit was before propping down.
As it happened, the boat had a floodchamber and would recover after a flip, so I could continue running.

After two more minutes the boat stopped.
After retreiving it, the ESC was toast and the motor blistering hot.

In the end the biggest prop I could run full throttle was a metal 33 mm, Having to use such a small prop resulted in an endless run before the boat would get on the plane, making it slower around the markers due to the lack of acceleration.

Continuous partial throttle will smoke things!

Even the massive headroom of the ESC you ordered can't prevent that.

Fast electrics have to be run full throttle at least 80% of the runtime.

So, if you go with the 1900Kv motor you'll have to run a very small prop resulting in an endless long acceleration phase, making for a very dissappointing boating experience.

The original flex in the 606 drive is 4 mm, I'd grab a pair of callipers and check for myself.

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Reinforcing an ABS hull requires a hazardous technique, which may destroy the hull if you overdo it on the solvent.

- split the hull in the top and bottom half by sanding down the joint in the middle.
- cut the glasscloth to size for the inside and apply a solvent like MEK or Acetone on the glasscloth with a small brush, done in the correct amount, the ABS will dissolve sufficient to enable you to work the glasscloth partly into the ABS, providing a good grip for the next layer of glasscloth and epoxy.

Do a testpiece first on some scrap ABS!
Work in small patches to keep controll over the amount of solvent, too much will make the hull buckle beyond repair.

Once both halves have been reinforced, re-join them with tape and reinforce the joint on the inside with a ribbon of glasscloth and epoxy.
This involves long (elongated) brushes and a dentist' mirror.

Now you have a Systems cat that still isn't capable of handling the power that overpowered the Apparition in the video, as the underwater hull isn't designed for speeds over 50 km/h (32 mph).

If you like, I could ask on German forae what modifications need to be done to the bottom.

Don't use the spraycan type of foam in a boat, do a search and see what kind of disaster may strike...

Regards, Jan.

i might just sent that 1900 back or just keep it for another boat, i bought it planning on swapping it over to another boat in the future, and after watching the video you posted up i thought a 1900 with a 42mm prop would work? but like an idiot i went ahead and ordered parts without waiting for approval from someone who knows what they are doing. i head back out on the road today so i will be back in another 2 weeks hopefully. once again thank you for being understanding even tho ive been thick headed most of the way through it.

Hi AC,

Being thick headed is often a benefit in this hobby, but only if you understand the basics of a proper set-up.

Good thing the components have become very affordable, so a 'spare' motor isn't the end of the world...

Keep us posted when you pick up on the Systems again.

Regards, Jan.

well i wound up taking my laptop on the road with me this time since the power plant we are shutting down is near a hotel with free wifi (thank god). but anyway i am going to order the 1600 right now, while im at it is there anything els i should order, and were those the right props? i ordered the heavy duty motor mount and a bunch of water cooling goodies to go with what ive been working on (pictures are coming soon) also i was kind of hoping that i could fiberglass the hull without splitting the boat open since the original owner epoxied everything pretty damm well. maybe just lay small workable patches in place. one last question while im thinking of it, what is the issue with using canned foam (like great stuff im assuming?) i was just planning on putting enough in to barely fill the front sponsons to give them some rigidness and since the rear half of the sponsons just behind the battery packs are already partially filled with foam just squirting a tiny bit in to fill some small gaps.

Spray foam is fine, as long as it's not expanding foam. The expanding stuff has been known to split many an expensive build apart.

so how would i know how much acetone to apply? should the cloth be barely damp, just enough to lightly coat the fiberglass then work the patch into the hull? i dont exactly have abs plastic laying around to test my skills so i need to be as close to perfect as i can get or at least as good of an understanding as i can get before i attempt it. also what charger would any of you recommend? im ordering the 3s 5000 batts from offshore and since they are 100 bucks a pop i want to make sure i have a good quality charger that can charge them quickly and safely

also i was thinking of putting carbon fiber as my final layer to add a tiny bit more strength and to give it that nice finished look. can i use the same epoxy as fiberglass for carbon fiber cloth?

Yeah, it's the same stuff. What are you planning on using?
Sorry I haven't really been following this thread so I can only chime in one simple questions.

well i was thinking either 3k woven carbon from hk or maybe 1k but its double the price, and like i said it would just be one layer of it on top of 2 layers of fiberglass, still need to get this whole concept of fiberglassing abs

If you're fiberglassing then doing carbon, I would just do two layers of carbon. It should be more than strong enough to hold even some pretty hard crashes.
3k will be good stuff

Originally Posted by boaterguy

If you're fiberglassing then doing carbon, I would just do two layers of carbon. It should be more than strong enough to hold even some pretty hard crashes.
3k will be good stuff

yeah i just wish i was able to coat the whole hull instead of just what i can get to

so i have the 1600kv version on the way, and two 3s 5000 mah 45c g3 ex lipo's with some drive line upgrades and adapters. i will be running the batts in parallelsince its 6s, any suggestions as to anything els?

Parallel will give you 3S 2P and a total of 10 000 mah at 45C
You want to run them in series to get 6S at 5000mah and 45C.
To do that, you take the main negative of one battery and connect it to the main positive of the next battery (do NOT connect the positive and negative of the same battery together)
The two remaining leads will be your main positive and main negative and should give you somewhere around 24V.