good news. very good news.

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

Some updates:

I am going to rewrite the whole thing in C. Yep, I'm getting old!

I think C was around before the Atmega instruction set

After writing the NoLCD PC client in C I realised how old I'm getting - lol

TOP news!

Well, I reverted my DX-7 onto mode 2, as that's how I've been flying micro helis.So thought I'd try a few hops in my lounge.

I found the machine very sensitive around the centres, so incrementally adjusted my expo to initially 40% then 60% where it is now. It will hover straight and level for maybe 2 seconds (if it drifts, I cut power, as my lounge space is minimal)
Is this ground effect making it drift one war or the other, or should I practice with Self Leveling switched on?

Would it be easier outside? After watching many videos I was kind of expecting more stability. The highest she rose to was around 10"

She is level for 1.5-2 seconds before she goes off either way Just wondering if anyone can advise me how to improve matters?
Still haven't broke anymore props (yet..lol)

Thanks in advance

Matt

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

...

Would it be easier outside? After watching many videos I was kind of expecting more stability. The highest she rose to was around 10"
...
Matt

I'm still figuring this out, but I'll say I found things **MUCH** easier outside and in a big space. I also find that getting out of ground effects helps too. I had to just plug up the courage to give a good "shot" of throttle to pop up into the air and then things started to smooth out.

I had my dual rates quite low for the first flights.

BTW, I still very much figuring this out. Flew gliders a decade ago but that's it. The cheapo v929 brought me along a good way too. New to build a new frame for my tri after a crash the other day, so I'm not doing everything right.

HTH. Cheers,
Andrew

Originally Posted by Banjo5

I'm still figuring this out, but I'll say I found things **MUCH** easier outside and in a big space. I also find that getting out of ground effects helps too. I had to just plug up the courage to give a good "shot" of throttle to pop up into the air and then things started to smooth out.

I had my dual rates quite low for the first flights.

BTW, I still very much figuring this out. Flew gliders a decade ago but that's it. The cheapo v929 brought me along a good way too. New to build a new frame for my tri after a crash the other day, so I'm not doing everything right.

HTH. Cheers,
Andrew

I think that's what I need to do then, plucking up the courage is the hardest bit!
I guess there is a lot of air being blown down, bouncing up, and off nearby furniture.

So I'll give that a try then, seems a lot harder to control than my micro helis that's for sure..

Can't see there are anymore adjustments to make with the board now, it's time to bite the bullet, and being practical, I know I'll probably stuff it in occasionally on the learning curve!
Is S/L required, or helpful during these early flying attempts?
When you say your D/R's are set quite low, what kind of figures are we talking about, and do you fly on these lower settings all the time?

Sorry for the myriad of questions, but I need all the help I can get, lol.

Cheers Andrew

Matt

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

Some updates:

I am going to rewrite the whole thing in C. Yep, I'm getting old! ......

Great news.
You will make a lot of people (including myself) very happy...
Watching the progress

Originally Posted by brontide

You have already done ESC calibration and confirmed that all channels are mapped correctly in the receiver test screen?

Thanks
I did calibration of the ESC again and the problem was solved.

Originally Posted by Steveis

I think C was around before the Atmega instruction set

After writing the NoLCD PC client in C I realised how old I'm getting - lol

Sorry to but in on this message but have been trying to find Firmware that will make my KK2 work for me. I am 70 so need more than a little help< and you think your getting old??>.
I have two KK2 boards and tried both on my Spider qaud and as I am using standard <not Flashed> e.s.cs I think I need to upgrade but am told the 1.2 is not good. Do you have firmware I can flash that will fix this as I can't get either board to fly my qaud?

Have read a lot in this forum but having got to page 600 and not found anything definite please can you help??

I have a "Crius" usbasp vo.2 thingy that I got with my kk5.5 blackboard with lead.

Thanks in advance for any info' MIKE.

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

I think that's what I need to do then, plucking up the courage is the hardest bit!
I guess there is a lot of air being blown down, bouncing up, and off nearby furniture.

So I'll give that a try then, seems a lot harder to control than my micro helis that's for sure..

Can't see there are anymore adjustments to make with the board now, it's time to bite the bullet, and being practical, I know I'll probably stuff it in occasionally on the learning curve!
Is S/L required, or helpful during these early flying attempts?
When you say your D/R's are set quite low, what kind of figures are we talking about, and do you fly on these lower settings all the time?

Sorry for the myriad of questions, but I need all the help I can get, lol.

Cheers Andrew

Matt

Yup, go for it!

I'm using stock settings for KK2 1.2 FW, tricopter (except for one yaw update).
SS's are 30, 30, 50, 90 for roll, pitch, yaw, throttle (I think this is where I upped the yaw SS a bit)
Or it might have been the P setting for yaw, it's at 70.

I'm using my Vision 8SP (Sailplane) TX.
So ail is 66% travel, so is elevator.
Flap (throttle) is 100% travel
Rudder is 80% travel
And Ail and Elev low rate is 60%

For the last half dozen flights I was using high rate (although still with 66% travel and SS30, so what that relates to in the end who knows!).

HTH.

cheers,
Andrew

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

Some updates:

I am going to rewrite the whole thing in C. Yep, I'm getting old!

It is so much easier to develop, debug and maintain. Also my math-library is not up to the task of rotating 3D vectors, needed for better self-level.

Due to the small program memory some features probably have to go.

In worst case it will have to be multicopter type specific hex files, like on the KK1.

I'm going to use AVR-GCC.

After writing a few arduino (C) programs, I went back to assembly to fix my brushed motor ESC firmware.

Then it hit me: "What the truck am I doing? I have to be bat-shlt-crazy to write large programs in assembly! This thing is so cryptic that I have to reverse-engineer my own source code!"

Haha

You The Man....KK thanks for doing this...I was surprised why you did not migrate to C before...writting the original KK code in assembly was something...but doing the same with the KK2 really burnt up some brain cells of mine..you see assembly gives me a giant headache...I am In my 3rd year of electronics and communications engineering and I have a subject based on Microprocessor 8085 coding...I hate 8085 microprocessor coding in assembly...I have to remember each and every instruction...from that specific instruction set meant for 8085...after that if you migrate to some other family of processors..to execute some thing is a stretch even though the logic is the same.. the instruction set almost completely changes.....WTH...and I saw you as an inspiration..to keep me pushing ahead in this subject as I thought it was really a super human effort on your part to write the whole KK2 code in assembly..I am not flattering you but this is what I frankly feel...but all that said... I found the alexin paris multiwii and Mike Barton original KK C codes more understandable....anyways... Thank you for this update...and I hope the you can figure out the complementary filter code and give us a perfect self level function based on fast angle estimation....and also creating separate hex files for different Multirotor Configs seems to be great idea as this would give you more headspace for adding features which improve flight quality rather than just occupy the EEPROM unnecessarily..all the while I was wondering how the original aeroplane stabilization feature performed so well for me..when david(Happysundays) used almost the whole chip memory for his openaero firmware and gave similar results......so looking forward to the next update..

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

Some updates:

I am going to rewrite the whole thing in C. Yep, I'm getting old!

It is so much easier to develop, debug and maintain. Also my math-library is not up to the task of rotating 3D vectors, needed for better self-level.

Due to the small program memory some features probably have to go.

In worst case it will have to be multicopter type specific hex files, like on the KK1.

I'm going to use AVR-GCC.

After writing a few arduino (C) programs, I went back to assembly to fix my brushed motor ESC firmware.

Then it hit me: "What the truck am I doing? I have to be bat-shlt-crazy to write large programs in assembly! This thing is so cryptic that I have to reverse-engineer my own source code!"

Haha

Glad to hear from you again sir

Originally Posted by micarus

Sorry to but in on this message but have been trying to find Firmware that will make my KK2 work for me. I am 70 so need more than a little help< and you think your getting old??>.
I have two KK2 boards and tried both on my Spider qaud and as I am using standard <not Flashed> e.s.cs I think I need to upgrade but am told the 1.2 is not good. Do you have firmware I can flash that will fix this as I can't get either board to fly my qaud?

Have read a lot in this forum but having got to page 600 and not found anything definite please can you help??

I have a "Crius" usbasp vo.2 thingy that I got with my kk5.5 blackboard with lead.

Thanks in advance for any info' MIKE.

Hey Mike,

Firmware Version 1.2 is fine. You just need to tune it to get it right.

What issues are you having? If you have a spider quad, i dont think the setups in the KK2 will work out of the box. Since the spider quads have different layout than just a regular quad. You will have to change the values in the Mix Editor to get it right.

Maybe someone here can give you some Custom Mixer Editor values...

Originally Posted by Banjo5

Hi there,
I'm currently using one of the same low voltage alarms that plugs into the balance plug mentioned a few pages back. It's set to 3.3V alarm.

I've just started flying my tri and am wondering if this is a bit low? I pretty much land right after it goes off (sometimes takes 20 seconds or so to do safely). When I charge the battery the starting voltage seems to be around 3.5V, which I think is OK. I'm concerned that the charger is putting close to the full cell 2200mAh capacity in. Am I risking damaging the batteries?

So is this too aggressive, or should I just feel happy that I'm getting all I should out of the batteries.

I haven't soldered in the voltage pin on the KK2 board (yet). I was concerned about damaging something. It is interesting that the beeper doesn't always show a red light on all cells, so the balanced approach could be slightly safer. I seem to recall some discussion on the appropriate alarm value to use on the KK2, but my searching didn't pan out the other day (could be because I just got sidetracked into re-reading other interesting stuff ;-).

It'll be a few days before I'm flying again, have to build a new tri frame after crashing mine up trying to sort out coordinated turns in (F)FF. I think I'm over/under yawing and then get a sideways slide into the ground if I don't watch it, and react quickly.

cheers,
Andrew

I have found some of those lipo alarms to be a bit hit and miss I have had one that started beeping as I put the tri on the ground so one with a led numerical display instead of leds lights is a good idea imho

Mind you it might be worth while flying your battery a couple of times connected to a "watts up" or similar as it will record lowest voltage just in case your lipo is not up to the job it will record the voltage sag so then you will know if it is the alarm or the battery.

I like the sound of the on board kk2 alarm as it seems much improved over the alternative also the bonus of a lost model indicator

Of course all this is speculation regarding the KK2 as mine never connected and I am waiting the arrival of my new order....fingers crossed

jeff

Mike

If you are referring to our conversation it was the 1.1 that apparently had problems not 1.2

I am still waiting for new KK2 board to arrive maybe this one will fly

Jeff

PS I thought you were much much older than 70