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Jul 08, 2012, 01:57 PM
Registered User
anlucas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ispintechno
Has anyone compiled a list of vendors to purchase this fan from? Thinking of buying one to do a 800w 4S application for my F-18.
Also any vendors sell these balanced with a motor attached based on requested specs? Obviously that service wouldn't be hobby king priced, but I think that would be ok for someone not skilled at balancing fans and wants a heart transplant for their plane, like myself
I don't think there's a list but there are very posts throughout this thread.

Some are US based.

From Asia, Hobby King, pw-rc.com, rc-castle.com, hobby-paradise.com and x-flight.com.hk to name a few.

ExtremeRC.com.au sells complete combos based on an alloy housing.

In reality, the fan itself is not that difficult to balance. Just need to get the hang of the techique and you can get pretty good results 10-20 mins.
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Jul 08, 2012, 02:08 PM
Defender of the park sky
Ispintechno's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by anlucas
I don't think there's a list but there are very posts throughout this thread.

Some are US based.

From Asia, Hobby King, pw-rc.com, rc-castle.com, hobby-paradise.com and x-flight.com.hk to name a few.

ExtremeRC.com.au sells complete combos based on an alloy housing.

In reality, the fan itself is not that difficult to balance. Just need to get the hang of the techique and you can get pretty good results 10-20 mins.
Thanks for the reply, what you listed off the top of your head is already very helpful. Just going for a basic but quiet parkflyer 4S set-up. I can see a real advantage to us urban pilots with this fan. Out of respect for the hobby and the fact I like the sound I think it should be a priority to a lot of city parkjets IMO for obvious reasons. Just thinking a year ago or so after discovering stumax RC videos on you-tube wondering if it was possible to scale that down at reasonable cost, I'm amazed at how the electric side of this hobby is progressing so nicely

Guess I could give balancing an EDF a whirl, looks a lot harder than my props.
Jul 08, 2012, 05:16 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ispintechno
Just going for a basic but quiet parkflyer 4S set-up. I can see a real advantage to us urban pilots with this fan. Out of respect for the hobby and the fact I like the sound I think it should be a priority to a lot of city parkjets IMO for obvious reasons.
Yup definitely benefits to parkflying. Here is the page and specs for my 4s COMBO. It can be run reliably on 2600mah packs up, I use 2600 and 3200 in my little F16 in the video below. It is a complete fan unit ready to install, just wire up your ESC to suit.

Extreme RC F-16 with 10 blades Changesun rotor (2 min 22 sec)
Latest blog entry: Extreme RC AUSTRALIA
Jul 08, 2012, 07:19 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by eliu
James, thanks very much for the measurements.

Although I don't have measured numbers, it appears that there are some differences between your measured amp-draw and what flylow2011 and myself observed (see post 3658). I have been flying CS-10 with 2W20 and 3S 3000mah, Thunderbird 55 for over 2 months now. Even with a good percentage of WOT, the battery was only warm after the flights.

Could you do 1 more test with the same 2w20 on WeMoTec Minifan with 4S, to see if the current is around 50A?
Thanks in advance with your help.


The difference in amp draw could caused by high/low timing, exhaust diameter, ducting ... or the accuracy of the meter .....

How long can you stay in the air with that 3000mah pack? thx.

for reference:
the 2W-20 is used with 3s lipo packs.
3s, 10blade 70mm fan, draws about 55amps
Amp draw was 30 Amps with a minifan
Last edited by flylow2011; Jul 08, 2012 at 07:41 PM.
Jul 08, 2012, 07:59 PM
Defender of the park sky
Ispintechno's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
Yup definitely benefits to parkflying. Here is the page and specs for my 4s COMBO. It can be run reliably on 2600mah packs up, I use 2600 and 3200 in my little F16 in the video below. It is a complete fan unit ready to install, just wire up your ESC to suit.

http://youtu.be/elrBV1tkpQg
Perfect!!

"The new CS 10 Blade rotor has brought that stumax "wooooooosh" sound to 70mm jets!! We have just finished preliminary testing of this new fan and have test flown it in our Foam/Glass F16 with simply amazing results!

The new EXTREME CNC Alloy 70mm 10 blade fan sounds amazing in the air, little motor noise, no fan whistle, just the roar of the exhaust and the wooooooosh!

Of course its not a stock fan, what you get is the new CS 10 Blade rotor that has been cleaned up and checked for trueness and balance, this is mated to our CNC Alloy housing and comes with 3.17mm shaft adapter suitable for all HET and ARC motors and our custom alloy spinner. We are currently working on shaft adapters with even higher tolerance than the factory ones and will be able to offer better 4mm adapters soon. "


I thank you good sir for your fine contribution to the hobby and to my fun time.

"Your Order Number is: 2608

Thank you! Your order has been successfully submitted for processing!"


Boooooooyyyaaaa

Boy, I posted in the right forum. *happy dance*

EDIT: Running 4S 2800mah 30C packs currently. I'm guessing this is heavier than the stock ARF powerplant. But I'll compare weights of each out of the F-18 and check the CG obviously with the new combo and ESC installed. Looks like I need a 80amp ESC now. All I have lying around is a 60amp Turnigy Plush (although it states 80 amp burst)
Last edited by Ispintechno; Jul 08, 2012 at 08:24 PM.
Jul 09, 2012, 04:49 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flylow2011
The difference in amp draw could caused by high/low timing, exhaust diameter, ducting ... or the accuracy of the meter .....

How long can you stay in the air with that 3000mah pack? thx.

for reference:
the 2W-20 is used with 3s lipo packs.
3s, 10blade 70mm fan, draws about 55amps
Amp draw was 30 Amps with a minifan
My usual flight time is a little over 3 min, with around 30-40% time at WOT.
I usually put about 2000mAh back to the pack.

30A for 2w20, 3s with a minifan is more in line with my expectations,
when compared with a report of 45A for 2w20, standard 4s setup with the minifan:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6352

However, I think James' numbers are just as valid, given timing and all other variations you outlined above. All these tests confirm that the CS-10 is very sensitive to battery/motor/timing/etc combinations. As long as a motor is not over-driven at the intended power level, the system can be quite efficient. Once a motor is driven pass some power level threshold, the efficiency with the CS-10 will fall off the cliff.
Jul 09, 2012, 04:54 AM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ispintechno
Perfect!!
Running 4S 2800mah 30C packs currently. I'm guessing this is heavier than the stock ARF powerplant. But I'll compare weights of each out of the F-18 and check the CG obviously with the new combo and ESC installed. Looks like I need a 80amp ESC now. All I have lying around is a 60amp Turnigy Plush (although it states 80 amp burst)
Welcome For sure it will be a bit heavier but it wont be a huge difference, you should be able to get your CG. 4s2800 is fine, and if you wanted an ESC shoot me an email and I will give you some options that might negate the cost of getting one from HK.
Latest blog entry: Extreme RC AUSTRALIA
Jul 09, 2012, 08:43 AM
Registered User
[QUOTE=PeterVRC;22103696]I finished up my ERC alloy CS10 with HET
HET 2W30-2200KV 6S 4000mAH 30C

At $77 for a HET, and $13 for the "limited ability" L2855's, I think I would rather the TurnigyXK's (50mm series or even better the 60mm series) - IF they had them! Because they are doing HET jobs for $32 or so. Basically half price or a bit under. Once you go to Tacon or Leopard, you are getting pretty well to HET prices anyway..... and I suspect HET come from Leopard really anyway. It is not the same Leopard series, but could be made for them by Leopard and just different can ends and small changes they requested.


Good Info here Peter, but I think you meant to say 28mm series motors not 50mm or 60mm series. 28 series @ 50 or 60mm length . 50 series is way too big for a 70mm fan set up. Im just stating this more so for the new comers, your statement will confuse the hell out of them.
Jul 09, 2012, 09:18 AM
Registered User
I did mean 50mm or 60mm... the can length, in a 28mm diam motor.
That is what sets the approx power capability of it... bigger can length, more capable.
Probably should not have said 'series' without a bit more text to explain... but in that I meant they have a whole series of each motor type. 50mm 60mm and others.

Check the range here:
http://www.leopardhobby.com/product/...ionID=01020204
Jul 09, 2012, 10:07 AM
Registered User
Flazo's Avatar
HET Typhoon EDF 2W-20 Help please,
can I do five cells and total watts?

fred
Jul 09, 2012, 10:57 AM
Registered User
anlucas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flazo
HET Typhoon EDF 2W-20 Help please,
can I do five cells and total watts?

fred
The 2W-20 at 3400kv cannot do 5 cells on this rotor. It may do 4S but at really high amps, 90+ I would expect.
Jul 09, 2012, 10:58 AM
Registered User
Flazo's Avatar
thank you Anlucas.

fred
Jul 09, 2012, 05:43 PM
Registered User
LOL, yes even 4S would be way too much. And probably even pushing 3S.
A 2800 on 5S is 71A 1200W. So I expect a 3350 on 3S would be in that 1200W region too, so then 80A or so. Say 75A to 85A range... which is pretty hefty even at the lower Amp end of that.
Need a few batteries for that task!
Save that motor for a high RPM 3 or 4 blade fan.... on 5S or 6S then. Something doing 50k to 60k RPM. (I have a few [basically Wemo version clones] but I don't know if they can do those sorts of RPMs - I have never tried that).
Or really, more optimal on something lower blade count (5 or 6) 4S I would think.
Jul 09, 2012, 06:47 PM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Well since everyone is putting their two cents I will too.
Heat dissipation is the prime reason not to run the lighter/shorter motors that have a kv that is rather ordinary in other fans that have a rotor design that has less loading. Even power from an efficient motor will produce heat from the current load at extremes but in the case of this Het 2w20 it suffers from the extreme in kv on the CS 70 that is normally used with 2800kv/90gr motor for 3s usage to 2150kv/167gr motor on 6s. Not only do you have to look at motor kv but length/weight/size.

Eric B.

Btw, I have been working with several low price L2855-2300's for a couple of projects I am working on. I am using Tam's shafts and washers with the stock fans, so far out of 4 motors 2 had hammered bearings and the two I bought from members of this community have come out really smooth and quiet. I am going to shelve the 2bad ones and get a couple more to round out my 4-fan project.
Last edited by AirX; Jul 09, 2012 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Btw
Jul 09, 2012, 07:00 PM
Lee Liddle
Knife Liddle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirX
Well since everyone is putting their two cents I will too.
Heat dissipation is the prime reason not to run the lighter/shorter motors that have a kv that is rather ordinary in other fans that have a rotor design that has less loading. Even power from an efficient motor will produce heat from the current load at extremes but in the case of this Het 2w20 it suffers from the extreme in kv on the CS 70 that is normally used with 2800kv/90gr motor for 3s usage to 2150kv/167gr motor on 6s. Not only do you have to look at motor kv but length/weight/size.

Eric B.
Very true!

The bigger the motor the better on any fan, but with the high load fans it`s even more important.

Just an example. I`ve switched the 3126 outrunner to a 2200kv on my CS-10 fan. On 6s it`s hitting 93a at about 2.1kw. But the intresting thing is that the motor is hitting 91% of it`s unloaded KV! 91% on a $20-$30 outrunner depending on where you buy it.

Those short inrunners will probably be lucky to hit 80% of their KV. The rest of the power is just turning into heat that will cause the motor tube to weaken and let the rotor hit the shroud.


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