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Old Apr 17, 2015, 03:20 PM
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I haven't messed with the MCPX BL tail yet. But would it be possible to unplug the tail motor and plug it directly to the board to see if it's the wire that is causing the problem? Could the wire be damaged from the crack? Just be careful about plugging BL motors directly to board. With my other heli, they must go through an ESC or else the BL motor would burn. But for mcpx bl, it seems everything is built in on the board? I don't have the heli with me right now, this is based on my memory.


Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz View Post
I recently switched over to the longer solid tail boom, and tried to be as careful as possible not to mess up the stock coated tail wires. But putting it all back together now my tail motor barely responds, or doesn't respond at all. I've already checked motor direction and it seems to be good.

So it seems there is something wrong with my motor, wires or main board. It all worked before, I was just replacing a hollow boom that had a split in it (that I had CA glued and flown a bunch of times the way it was). So my question is what do you guys think it most likely is? Any suggestions of troubleshooting, instead of just buying each component brand new and trying them out?

I wouldn't mind buying tail wires or even a new tail motor, but I just hope whatever the problem is, is that it didn't screw up my tail fets or something.

I don't see or smell anything burnt out on the main board...
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 04:15 PM
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finguz

I ran into a similar problem as well. For me the issue was the tail motor. It turns out my tail motor twisted in the tail case somehow and undid the solder on the tall motor wires coming off the tail motor. Couldn't see it because of the heat shrink on the tail motor wires. If you have an extended boom I'd recommend the lynx tail wires to begin with because the stock wires aren't very reliable in certain situations. That's slightly cheaper than buying a new tail motor, then after that if it doesn't fix it replace your tail motor.
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 05:55 PM
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If you're lucky, you simply broke open a wire, and it can be easily and cheaply repaired.

If you're not as lucky, you shorted a wire, and probably fried atleast one Tail Motor FET. Here's a link to RX repair info: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=43

If they can't repair it for you, then I can probably do it, but I'd first have to receive payment from you, then order and receive the parts about 1 week later, before I could replace the FETs. If interested, PM me.

When repairing the Tail Boom/Wire/Motor, I'd seriously consider this post's advice: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9554
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Last edited by i812; Apr 17, 2015 at 06:42 PM. Reason: added RX repair info
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 07:59 PM
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eggma: the only problem trying to bypass the tail wires is that the motor connector and the connector on the board are both female. Which if I had to I could use some CAT5 wire or something else maybe to test it like you say, separated from the stock tail wires. Might be worth trying out if all else fails.

Vodarac: Yeah, if nothing else I don't mind getting a new motor, as long as I knew that would fix it.

i812: I'll keep that repair info in mind... if nothing else I might be hitting you up for a repair job.

thanks for the info guys.

So far I just did a continuity test on the wires themselves and it seems like I might have one that didn't get soldered properly or something. I'll see if that solves the problem, couldn't be helping it . Could be my POS volt meter too, never know until you try.
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 10:16 PM
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One sort of decent easy way to inspect a Brushless Motor with an Ohm Meter, is to disconnect the Brushless Motor and measure the resistance between each of its wires and verify they are ALL the about the same (within 1 Ohm of each other).

In other words, verify the resistance between:
Brushless Motor Wire "A" to Brushless Motor Wire "B" =

Brushless Motor Wire "B" to Brushless Motor Wire "C" =

Brushless Motor Wire "C" to Brushless Motor Wire "A"
If all 3 resistance measurements aren't about the same (within 1 Ohm of each other), then there's definitely a problem.

The above resistance measurements won't catch every Brushless Motor problem, but it will identify bad Brushless Motors that have a winding which is internally open or shorted.
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Last edited by i812; Apr 17, 2015 at 10:42 PM. Reason: add last comment
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Old Apr 18, 2015, 12:10 PM
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When I purchased my mcpx bl, I noticed that the blade grips were loose, looser than they really needed to be despite being a factory item. I spoke to a few other BL owners and some stated that their's were a little loose too. This is the video I made to show the problem I had a while back.
Blade Grip Slop MCP x BL (0 min 51 sec)


Well I decided to file down the feathering shaft to take out the slop. Used a simple file and took my time while test fitting frequently for the perfect fit. Too much filing and your blade grips WILL bind at the bearings. My blade grips now have zero slop while still being able to move freely with the swash plate. I did notice flying is smoother than before as well. I didn't take photos because this mod is as simple as filing the feathering shaft as flat as you can on one side (or both if you like) and test fitting it frequently.

I will add a disclaimer though, I do not know if the blade grips are supposed to be that loose from factory, but they felt loose enough to feel unsafe, although I've never had an issue with it.

Have you guys had this issue with floppy loose blade grips on your stock heads?
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Old Apr 18, 2015, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodarac View Post
When I purchased my mcpx bl, I noticed that the blade grips were loose, looser than they really needed to be despite being a factory item. I spoke to a few other BL owners and some stated that their's were a little loose too. This is the video I made to show the problem I had a while back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrbW2srWg1w

Well I decided to file down the feathering shaft to take out the slop. Used a simple file and took my time while test fitting frequently for the perfect fit. Too much filing and your blade grips WILL bind at the bearings. My blade grips now have zero slop while still being able to move freely with the swash plate. I did notice flying is smoother than before as well. I didn't take photos because this mod is as simple as filing the feathering shaft as flat as you can on one side (or both if you like) and test fitting it frequently.

I will add a disclaimer though, I do not know if the blade grips are supposed to be that loose from factory, but they felt loose enough to feel unsafe, although I've never had an issue with it.

Have you guys had this issue with floppy loose blade grips on your stock heads?
Blades for those micro's are LOOSE, like flopp-i-di-flop loose, absolutely no friction in the blade grips. Just make sure that the blade (grips) holders are properly secured / tight in the rotor head.
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Old Yesterday, 11:38 AM
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Hello,
I had to RMA my mcpx bl because it was getting "phantom" stick input and would accelerate foreward and right. Could not be trimmed out.
The board was swapped and I got it back.

I am flying at 100% throttle and a linear pitch from 0 to 100. I have a feeling that the heli lacks a bit of power...

It will take off and hover just above 4/6 of stick (half stick = 0 pitch). About 4 of pitch.
Also I feel it lacks a bit of punch but I might be imagining this...

Does this sound normal?

Also I downloaded an android app to measure head speed but it keeps asking me to put in an estimate and depending on what I estimate I get different results. Anything from 3k to 8k

Thanks

Phil
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Old Yesterday, 09:10 PM
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Finguz, how did you tail motor go?

After a crashed, the solder between my tail motor and the plug was sheared. I tried soldering them back on, but it was tough. These are enamel wire straight from the inner runner brushless motor. I thought I soldered them back on, but after numerous try I ended up buying a new tail motor. What happened was there are 3 bundles of enamel wire from the motor that gets soldered to the plug. Each of these individual bundles has 3 individual enamel wire twisted together. One would have to make sure all 3 of these wires in each bundled are soldered together. In my case, I failed to have them soldered together. After I got the wires cut too short, I ended up buying a new tail motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz View Post
eggma: the only problem trying to bypass the tail wires is that the motor connector and the connector on the board are both female. Which if I had to I could use some CAT5 wire or something else maybe to test it like you say, separated from the stock tail wires. Might be worth trying out if all else fails.

Vodarac: Yeah, if nothing else I don't mind getting a new motor, as long as I knew that would fix it.

i812: I'll keep that repair info in mind... if nothing else I might be hitting you up for a repair job.

thanks for the info guys.

So far I just did a continuity test on the wires themselves and it seems like I might have one that didn't get soldered properly or something. I'll see if that solves the problem, couldn't be helping it . Could be my POS volt meter too, never know until you try.
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Old Yesterday, 09:25 PM
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I installed a set of Microheli DFC blade grips (and head). I like how the heli feels with this upgrade. The cyclic response seems tighter overall.
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Old Yesterday, 10:07 PM
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After a high speed crash in which my tail fin whipped off and broke the solder on the tail BL moto . I added some protection. Wire tape to prevent things from whipping. And foam tape to protect that little bit of wire from the motor.
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