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Old Jan 26, 2013, 06:28 PM
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Are these compatible?

I'm a heli flyer who on a whim recently bought a small plane.

Hobbyking Mini J3 Cub (ARF) and also got a Hobbyking SS Series 15-18A ESC and a Turnigy Park250 Brushless Outrunner 2200kv and have connected a 2S 450mAh 7.4v Lipol and orangerx I already had. I confess I did no research as to if these were right or not (oops) - they just seemed ok...

I have wired it all up. I seem to be able to enter the ESC program and have set it to LiPo (I think). The servos all seem to function (had to reverse the aileron but otherwise fine and get full and clear movement on control surfaces.

When I throttle up the motor spins momentarily before stopping. Going back to zero throttle and starting again gives the same momentary spin and then stops.

Have got incorrect components, incorrect wiring or perhaps the motor is u/s out of the box? Suggestions please do what I need to check etc.

Ta.

StKilda
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 06:56 PM
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C₄H₁₀'s Avatar
United States, AK, Fairbanks
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What prop are you using?
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'm using the prop that came with the model. There is no mention of the specificiation either on the prop or in the manual. But when I say the motor spins - I mean it spins maybe 10 revolutions before it stops - I'm not sure the prop is stressing the motor at all if it is not correct. I suspect that I would see the same behaviour if there was no prop attached.

Off to bed right now - so will post any other replies tomorrow.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 08:26 PM
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Is your esc set for 3s or 2s and is the battery fully charged?

mw
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 08:34 PM
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There are 3 versions of the park 250, with Kv = 1680, 2050 and 2200.

Depending on the prop size, it is quite possible if you are using the Kv=2200 version to be pulling the battery voltage straight down to the low voltage cutout setting of the ESC. If the pack is only partly charged or has hard a hard life, even more likely.

For example, the Kv=2200 motor with a 7x6 SF will want to draw something over 9A, or 20C for a 450mAH pack, compared with only around 6A or about 13C for the same prop and Kv=1680. 20C is a big ask for most 450s

Run it without the prop and see what happens.

For more troubleshooting, more specific info is required: . Kv and prop size are critical in any power system discussion
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:22 AM
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Thanks. Yes it is the 2200kv version. Sounds like I have chosen the wrong motor. I'll run without a prop as soon as and post back. Damn. Can you point me to a resource to help me get this right in terms of what motor / prop combo to use?

Many thanks for helping here.

Chris
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StKilda View Post
Thanks. Yes it is the 2200kv version. Sounds like I have chosen the wrong motor. I'll run without a prop as soon as and post back. Damn. Can you point me to a resource to help me get this right in terms of what motor / prop combo to use?

Many thanks for helping here.

Chris
If a model has a recommended power system, choosing a motor similar in weight and Kv is a good start if you are going to use the supplied prop.

If you are going to start from scratch, try WebOCalc. There is a tutorial in the parent site, and a number of wizards to give you a few hints, including suggestions on battery and current to achieve the power required for the model and style of flying.

Try it with Kv=1700 and 2200 to see the difference in prop size to use the same power.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:54 AM
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removing the prop means the motor spins freely under power.

So - can I find a suitable prop for this model or am I really looking at getting a more suitable motor and ESC and chalk it up to experience?

Ta.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StKilda View Post
removing the prop means the motor spins freely under power.

So - can I find a suitable prop for this model or am I really looking at getting a more suitable motor and ESC and chalk it up to experience?

Ta.
You could try a GWS HD 6x3 for about 6A. Or go with the Kv=1680 and use a GWS 7x6 SF
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:09 AM
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I have tested the E-flite 250 (~2200Kv) and found that it had difficulty getting a 7x4 APC SF to spin...amp draw wasn't over the top, just lack of torque.. I'd use nothing bigger than a 6x3 or 6x4 on 2s for your Turnigy 250.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Thanks. I suspect I will do both - may as well buy a prop for the motor I have and get a new motor and suitable prop. I plan to get the 16g hextronik brushless 1700kv.

So one final question: Will the ESC I have ( Hobbyking SS Series 15-18A ESC) be too big for the 1700 motor or is this element not a factor?

Thanks
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StKilda View Post
Thanks. I suspect I will do both - may as well buy a prop for the motor I have and get a new motor and suitable prop. I plan to get the 16g hextronik brushless 1700kv.

So one final question: Will the ESC I have ( Hobbyking SS Series 15-18A ESC) be too big for the 1700 motor or is this element not a factor?

Thanks
'Too big' is only a weight cost and size factor. It can't 'push' more current through the motor than it demands.

Take a look at the Plush range. The 10A will do the job and is a fair bit smaller and lighter http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html

I use dozens of the Plush from 6 to 60A - they're great. The Plush compatible programming card is also worthwhile
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:14 PM
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I've tested that HXT D2211-1700.. my test motor was 20g and ~1570Kv.. it was perfectly happy with 6x3 and 7x3.5 GWS HD props on 3s.. and with 7x4 APC SF on 2s... but 8x3.8 SF was going to be too much for it on a really good 2s pack.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:11 PM
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I wonder if I need to get myself some scales! I changed the esc for the plush 10A which would have saved a few grams and have tried both the HXT 1700 and Turnigy 2200 on both a 6/3 and 7/6 (using overlander 7.4v 450mAh 2S).

The 7/6 wont spin and while the 6/3 will spin, the plane will not sustain flight.

I'm not quite sure what to do next..
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:33 PM
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Stkilda,

mark wood's question, aside from selecting the right motor/prop/battery is the one you need to pay attention to right now.

from what you are describing initially is a classic case of an esc set to 3s lipo, but since you are using a 2s lipo, the esc is "detecting" a low voltage condition and kicking in the LVC function.

ensure your esc is set to either auto detect or 2s lipo.

when you power it up, do you hear 2 beeps or 3 beeps. The beeps indicate what the lipo is set for if it isn't set for autodetect. If its autodetect, it would sense the voltage and then the number of beeps correspond to the number of battery cells it detects.
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