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Old Sep 06, 2010, 07:08 AM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
943 Posts
Here is new software for TriCopter.

I have added a low pass filter on the output to remove the vibration induced servo jitter.

Code:
	b16sub RxInYaw, LowpassOutYaw	;Low pass filter the Yaw control output

	b16load RxInYaw
	ldi t,3
	rcall FastDivide
	b16store RxInYaw

	b16add LowpassOutYaw, RxInYaw
Also I have doubled the arming/disarming time to make accidental arming/disarming less likely to happen.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 07:50 AM
321
mixed styles flight
central Florida USA
Joined Dec 2002
125 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Here is new software for TriCopter.

I have added a low pass filter on the output to remove the vibration induced servo jitter.

Code:
	b16sub RxInYaw, LowpassOutYaw	;Low pass filter the Yaw control output

	b16load RxInYaw
	ldi t,3
	rcall FastDivide
	b16store RxInYaw

	b16add LowpassOutYaw, RxInYaw
Also I have doubled the arming/disarming time to make accidental arming/disarming less likely to happen.
Thanks! The low-pass filter should help a lot. I think servo jitter may have been causing the controller to battle it out with the weight shifting of the motor and gyroscopic force as well.
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Last edited by 321; Sep 06, 2010 at 08:02 AM.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 08:28 AM
Don't disturb the pilot !!!
saucisse's Avatar
Canada, QC, Quebec
Joined Jun 2008
2,187 Posts
Emax CF2822 motor ??

For those using the Emax CF2822 motor, do you leave the shaft like it is stock to install the prop adapters or it is better to have it going out at the bottom so the prop adapter sits flush on the bell ?

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Old Sep 06, 2010, 08:40 AM
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Norway Haugesund
Joined Jun 2010
329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
For those using the Emax CF2822 motor, do you leave the shaft like it is stock to install the prop adapters or it is better to have it going out at the bottom so the prop adapter sits flush on the bell ?
I did it like this Used a cheap prop saver from hobbyking and swap the o-ring with a rubberband.

Quad tweaks (0 min 44 sec)
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 09:28 AM
Don't disturb the pilot !!!
saucisse's Avatar
Canada, QC, Quebec
Joined Jun 2008
2,187 Posts
And rubber bands are holding good ? I guess you gotta checks these buggers once in a while...
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 10:04 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,615 Posts
Hi,
I do cut the shafts down when using those prop adapters using a Dremel so they are almost touching the bell when fully inserted on the shaft. Those shafts are also easy to tap for threads. Then just use locknuts and lock washers and then a bit of Lock tite for the best relability. When using the prop saver method on lightweight fun flyers, some Gents cleverly cut silicone tubing to use in place of the O-rings which as you know commonly fail with age.
Cheers,
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
For those using the Emax CF2822 motor, do you leave the shaft like it is stock to install the prop adapters or it is better to have it going out at the bottom so the prop adapter sits flush on the bell ?

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Old Sep 06, 2010, 10:48 AM
ApachePilot
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Joined Oct 2006
1,887 Posts
I just purchased a board a few days ago from here:

http://www.kkmulticopter.com/index.p...=annonce&id=19

I have a thought on mounting it on my Matrix V2 folding TRI.

I believe it will work wonderfully, but have a question....

What is the common concensus?Which is perferred by most, SMD types or TH?


Anything I should be on the lookout for and should know prior to mounting/hookup?


ApachePilot
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 11:14 AM
Member FPV UK
IWCoburg's Avatar
Isle of Wight, UK
Joined Apr 2010
729 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ApachePilot View Post
What is the common concensus?Which is perferred by most, SMD types or TH?


Anything I should be on the lookout for and should know prior to mounting/hookup?


ApachePilot
As my eyesight is not up to really small stuff, I opted for the assembled (less gyro) SMD boards as they are nice and compact.

As I am running my boards from a Spectrum reciever I simplified the cabling so I use the Trottle chanel to feed signal and power, but only feed signal on the elevator, aileron and rudder chanels, so you have inreality only 2 cables to connect. This also works direclty if you add the FY20A as well, just a plug in and go job.

Mike.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Xnaron's Avatar
Joined Feb 2003
3,759 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xnaron View Post
Here is a version that I included the swapped board and schematic files (_swap) ... I haven't tested yet obviously
I routed it...man those traces are small...I didn't have small enough drill bits and ended up losing some pads. I also made a mistake cutting the board out on the X. The board is offset +0.025 on the X and -0.025 on the Y on the bottom. I compensated the wrong way. Here is a pic...I could use this board but I think I'll make another when I get the right drill bit size.

edit: there are a couple of questionable traces as well... I might work on a 2 sided version of the board. The main problem I had is the via's under components. I might spend some time and try and modify the other through hole version...
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Last edited by Xnaron; Sep 06, 2010 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Fulg's Avatar
Montreal, Canada
Joined Sep 2008
59 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xnaron View Post
You might want to try replacing your bullet connectors too...I had this problem with multiple HK bullet connectors. The male side of the connector is 2 pieces and sometimes there is no continuity. I have two on my bench with this problem...unbelievable I know...I thought it was a bad motor but it was the connectors...just one more thing to try. Use a continuity meter to test.
Funny you should mention that, my Quad flight session this morning was canceled because of that exact problem (thankfully I had brought some helis). One of the motors seemed to be running a bit slower than the others for the past few days and it's been hard to calibrate the quad correctly; this morning that motor wouldn't even start. Just wiggling the bullet connector resolved the issue, so it's clear one of my motor connections is not working (either the bullet connector or my soldering).

I'm just thankful this didn't occur in flight, a friend and I spent all morning yesterday flying the quad (too windy for planes and helis)... I was blaming the wind for the calibration difficulties but it seems I have found the root cause

Cheers,
Ben.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
So you just measure the current by sticking the probes to the ESC wires directly? That could blow the fuse inside the meter or worse it could damage the ESC.

I guess some FET's has died. You can try finding which FET has died by comparing it with others and maybe you can fix it, maybe like this: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=15 (I don't think they have same design, but you can find the replacement FETs.)
They turned out OK. ESC came back after I cleaned out the solder and resolder the cap and power cable.

Now further problem, I'm running v4.4 on Niall's V6TH board and when powered on the LED is off. I moved left stick to lower right and nothing happened, same with stick moved to lower left. When I lower throttle trim the LED on steadily. At this setup if I increase the throttle motors will start differently. M2-->add one throttle click--> M1-->add one throttle click-->add one throttle click-->M3-->add one throttle click-->M4.
I can see the motors speeding or slowing correctly but if I keep throttle at minimum some of them will stop moving after I stop playing with ele/rud/ail.
M1 (sometimes with M2) will start spinning at low speed if I close the throttle and turn off tx.
I also tried to move the board around but didn't notice any change on motor speed.

Sorry for my english.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:55 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2010
62 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fulg View Post
Funny you should mention that, my Quad flight session this morning was canceled because of that exact problem (thankfully I had brought some helis). One of the motors seemed to be running a bit slower than the others for the past few days and it's been hard to calibrate the quad correctly; this morning that motor wouldn't even start. Just wiggling the bullet connector resolved the issue, so it's clear one of my motor connections is not working (either the bullet connector or my soldering).

I'm just thankful this didn't occur in flight, a friend and I spent all morning yesterday flying the quad (too windy for planes and helis)... I was blaming the wind for the calibration difficulties but it seems I have found the root cause

Cheers,
Ben.
Thank you for confirming this issue. Any picture of your bullet connector? Mine is actually one piece male.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:57 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xnaron View Post
I routed it...man those traces are small...I didn't have small enough drill bits and ended up losing some pads. I also made a mistake cutting the board out on the X. The board is offset +0.025 on the X and -0.025 on the Y on the bottom. I compensated the wrong way. Here is a pic...I could use this board but I think I'll make another when I get the right drill bit size.

edit: there are a couple of questionable traces as well... I might work on a 2 sided version of the board. The main problem I had is the via's under components. I might spend some time and try and modify the other through hole version...
Hi, just curious here, is there any reason not to etched out the wide portion of copper?
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 01:09 PM
That tree again!!!!
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Germantown, MD, US
Joined Sep 2004
6,642 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by skye View Post
Hi, just curious here, is there any reason not to etched out the wide portion of copper?
If those big portion of copper is ground (which should be), then it acts like a shield against noise and interference.
-Thanh
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 01:22 PM
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Joined Feb 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
If those big portion of copper is ground (which should be), then it acts like a shield against noise and interference.
-Thanh
It would also take a really long time with the small bit I used.
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