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Old Feb 13, 2014, 03:55 PM
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USA, OH, cambridge
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there are a couple of YS's listed in the motor section. Don't know if it what you want
Frank
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Old Feb 14, 2014, 12:48 AM
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SoCal
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Thanks Frank. One was a SS like I am using and it's on it's way to me now. If anyone else has any SS's in good shape please let me know.
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Old Feb 14, 2014, 03:38 AM
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Here are a couple of pics showing the main gear retract servo. As I mentioned, the wing has the servo mount already built in to it.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 01:57 AM
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I got in 8 flights today with another engine installed. It's still early, but the model seems exceptional! It is very "groovy" and it is tracking very well. It was pretty windy today but I already feel very comfortable with it. The retracts have worked perfectly and the steering on the ground is great. I think it's going to be a real keeper!
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Last edited by TonyF; Feb 17, 2014 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 01:12 PM
Raised on 80's Pattern
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Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
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Originally Posted by TonyF View Post
Back in the day we never ran more then a single servo hooked up to the retracts. I was going to stay "manly" and do the same on this model. But in thinking about it, and coming up with a better mousetrap, I decided to install a nose gear servo. Also, I wanted to install a separate servo for the nose steering. With today's radios you can now use a channel for the steering and set up a mix to couple it to the rudder. This lets you adjust the trim of the steering without affecting the rudder trim.

I guess as I get older I get lazier!
It's the only way to go now. The only thing not manly about this system is the lack of "cool" scratches on you header from your nose gear failing!

The other thing you can do with the separate nose steering servo is to set the mix to turn off when the gear switch Is in the "up" position. That way your servo is not moving and wasting battery on your awesome reverse knife edge!

We are not getting lazier, we are getting smarter.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 10:55 PM
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Richard Verano sent me a needle so I got the YS working today. After the AMA/F3A event I got in 3 flights with it. This model is awesome! I've never had a classic fly this well. I'm sure I'll find little tweaks here and there, but this rebuild was so worth it!

Doug, already have the mix that way. Was what we did with the jets I flew a few years ago. I know if we had the kind of equipment back then like we have now, it's what we would have done. I love Classic!
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Last edited by TonyF; Feb 17, 2014 at 03:46 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2014, 06:15 PM
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Tony,

Great thread. I got a P7 last summer and have been waiting on how to decide to set it up. I liked this tutorial, especially on gutting it and making your own servo trays and tank layout. I am also thinking of trying the DB retracts. Also got interested in the addition of the fin. I planned on adding a trim fin on a KAOS .40 I am building to give it better knife edge performance and stability.

The only difference I have is that I had a brand new OS .65AX given to me for Christmas that I want to put in it.

Scott
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Old Feb 23, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Simi Valley, California
Joined Jan 2010
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Wow.

I got to fly it yesterday. Simply amazing. Of the four P-7's that I have had the opportunity to fly, the other three do not even come close to how good Tony's airplane flies. The P-7 can flown to "look good" by a competent pilot, you have to work it hard to avoid the "quirks" inherent in the stock airplane.

Not so with this one. It is a fingertip flier, almost effortless. The importance of the the engine running correctly from beginning to end of the flight can't be overstated. This due to the fuel tank being at the right height. No more rich in the beginning/lean at the end of the flight.

Needless to say, I will be incorporating the techniques demonstrated in Tony's build into my own projects.

-Robert
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Old Mar 23, 2014, 10:40 PM
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I have a bit over 80 flights on the model to date. It has been a joy! I've continued to trim and improve here and there and I'll update these in a bit.

I'm running the YS on a Mac's 10cc Quiet Pipe now courtesy of Mr. Fish. I also switched to an APC 11x9. The engine originally had an older piston/liner that had been modified by the previous owner. I installed a stock "later" model piston/liner that is timed more for the larger props.

Anyway, today another member who does Dynamic Soaring was out and he had his radar gun. The model's average for upwind/downwind was over 140MPH. Now let me tell you, that is moving the freight! I have to watch my turnarounds and throttle down or I can't do a nice 6 second slow roll before it gets hard to see. What a kick!
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Old Aug 02, 2014, 01:45 PM
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United States, FL, Sarasota
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Hi Tony
I am about to start a build on a new P-7,& want to incorporate your new mods in the build. I have already purchased a Sullivan engine mount with Lord mounts included. I want to invest in a set of 60 to 120 size set of e-tracts. After following the first P-7 build thread, I'm aware of the issues you encountered with the gear. I have never owned a set of e-tract gear but do believe the lord mounts may do the trick with vibration & chaffing of the leads. I assume you made new nose gear mounts & want to know if you aimed for a specific height prior to gluing them in, or will this be predetermined by the lowest point you can mount the fuel tank.
Paul
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Old Aug 02, 2014, 08:36 PM
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Hi Paul. As in the build thread I used Dave Brown retracts and that nose gear mounts to the firewall. I made a few mods to the gear to make sure I could get it as low as possible so as not to raise the tank very high. With a gear that needs beam mounts I'm not sure how I would go. I might be tempted to use some aluminum angle that could be bolted to the firewall and then bolt the nose gear to it. Also, I have been looking at the E-Flite 46 size gear. I think it is strong enough and would be lighter then the E-Flite 60-120 gear.

One of these days I'll have to try the electric gear again to see if the engine soft mount solves the issues. But I have to say the servo operated mechanical gear have been flawless with 150 flights on the new P-7 to date.
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 03:18 AM
Raised on 80's Pattern
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyF View Post
I used a JR 378 servo I had lying around for the nose retract and a HiTec 56 for the steering. These are both flat mount servos and worked great for what I needed.
Question: I've decided to put my Conquest on a diet to improve performance. I have Futaba 136g retract servo (1.5 oz) actuating my nose retract. I'm considering replacing it with a lighter servo. I thought you had to use 180 degree retract servos that only run end to end so they don't stall and drain your battery.

Can you give me your thoughts on this?

Thanks Tony
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 12:21 PM
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With the ability to fine tune the travel of the servo I have had no problem with using a standard servo. Even the Spektrum retract servos are fully proportional. Just make sure that the gear is not going to catch anything when going up or down. The other thing is many of today's radios have telemetry and you could set up a warning if the battery is overloaded.
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatherof4 View Post
Question: I've decided to put my Conquest on a diet to improve performance. I have Futaba 136g retract servo (1.5 oz) actuating my nose retract. I'm considering replacing it with a lighter servo. I thought you had to use 180 degree retract servos that only run end to end so they don't stall and drain your battery.

Can you give me your thoughts on this?

Thanks Tony
Tony,

It might be an odd optical illusion, but the picture looks like the nose gear steering geometry is off and you are going to have a bind in the steering linkage with the gear retracted. The steering arm should be able to slide both directions on the pin when the gear is retracted or maybe you plan to disable the servo with the gear retracted.

Mike
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 10:48 PM
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Well, the pic is not my model but it is Doug's Conquest. Doug and I use a separate channel mixed to the rudder for the nosewheel. It's turned off when the gear is up.
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