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Old May 03, 2012, 10:14 AM
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I think you're going to pull more than 130A with that setup. I bet you'll be closer to 170ish.
I think OSE has the cc 240s in stock, but I don't know if they are the updated versions and of course you wouldn't be getting the discount.
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Old May 04, 2012, 09:32 PM
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I think you're going to pull more than 130A with that setup. I bet you'll be closer to 170ish.
I think OSE has the cc 240s in stock, but I don't know if they are the updated versions and of course you wouldn't be getting the discount.
Guess I could go with the T180's. It would limit it to 6s but really hope it doesn't pull in the 170 amp range. That would be in the same range as my 1717 single and it will suck down a 2p 10000 ma set in a 6 lap race. The T180's I had in the Explorer wouldn't even be warm after 6 laps on the 1520's (but will admit it wasn't even close to full throttle anywhere except the straights). Chances are the T180's would be a more compact fit as well.
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Old May 04, 2012, 09:57 PM
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It's hard to say what the best choice is. Sometimes a HV ESC can take more current if your only running 6s, so the 130s might be enough.

You're comparing a single to a twin, but provided your 1717 was 1580kv, you're also adding a couple thousand RPM. It might be less, I was just guessing...I don't think it would be under 130A though.

I have a Cheetah here with twin 1600kv motors and might be running it this weekend. I don't have anything to log it, but I can let you know how the hull runs with the props I try at that RPM, and temps on my ESCs...maybe that will help?
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Old May 05, 2012, 07:16 AM
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I have a Cheetah here with twin 1600kv motors and might be running it this weekend. I don't have anything to log it, but I can let you know how the hull runs with the props I try at that RPM, and temps on my ESCs...maybe that will help?
If you get a chance to run it and see what temps are that could be very helpful in making an estimate as to what it might need.
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Old May 05, 2012, 09:12 AM
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I have seen so many people at our club just get the lowest ESC they can get away with its only a matter of time before the smoke comes , i have done the same in the past , if you need a 180a speedo on 6s why get one on the limit ,,,,get a 240a up to 12s i have these in all my boats now they only get slightly warm i can try any motor combo, prop size etc never blown one yet its cheaper in the long run

my advice is to get one thats on top of the job "fit and forget"

phil
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Old May 05, 2012, 09:46 AM
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There you are Phil. I was hoping you'd get back in here since you are already running the same motors in your 41" Falcon.

I really don't think I need a 180 amp speedo for this one but went ahead and ordered a pair of Turnigy 180's this morning. (for Q class I can't exceed 6s anyways) I'm running one of them in my Sprincat pushing a single Castle 1717 which is a high amp draw motor. It's had about a year of my abuse so far with no problems. With this being a twin it should unload even better.
Since you occasionally run your Falcon on 6s and 1p (I think) with c/r 447's what kind of run time do you get with 5000 ma per motor?
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Old May 05, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Bill i just get a 5min race on 6s with 5000 lipo;s its gone off the boil by the last lap though , you may get a bit better run because your boat is a bit smaller less area on the water ,

the same setup on 8s still flying after 7 mins

just thinking if them turnigys have a BEC supply for the reciever how will you go linking 2 through one RX ?
i have read that they could earth back through the motor and get higher volts to your RX when using 2 BEC supplies into one

phil.
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Old May 05, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Thanks Phil. I was thinking you said you got around 5 minutes somewhere along the line. I only have to make 4 minutes for Q offshore here. (And at our local club races only around 2 minutes for the 6 laps we usually run).

I'll most likely disable the bec on both of them (slide the red wire out of the servo end) and run a rx pack or seperate bec. Just depends on whether I need some ballast. I only disabled the bec in one of the esc's in my little MM twin since it's only running 4s so one feeds the radio and the other is just along for the ride.

Looks like I need to add a few photos to this pictureless page.
I have gotten as far as adding a couple layers of CF cloth to the area's where the motor mounts will go and making a working template for making the mounts. Already have the front hatch hold down tabs installed as well but didn't bother with shooting it.
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:10 PM
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I ran the Cheetah today Bill, but I can't provide much for feedback other than to say that it handles awesome. I ran it on 5s with 645s and it was pretty fast, and I never lifted in the corners. It was stuck like glue. AWESOME handling cat. I'm running the 130mm rudder from Fighter Cat...I'm not sure what you're using but I can verify that the 130 works great.

Unfortunately I had some radio issues and got really lucky that I didn't hit the shore. I packed it up, not wanting to run anymore before being confident in the radio. I didn't get to run it long enough to put any heat into it really. I do think your 447s will work well on it though.
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:35 PM
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I hope this doesn't muddy your thread Bill. If you want to keep it just pics of your build let me know and I'll delete these, but I wanted to post them just in case you can use them for reference.
These are the shorter stingers that Fighter Cat sells that I was talking about. They are a tight fit, but the can be fitted, and they work great once you get them on there. The 110mm stingers might do well too, I don't know. They shorter stingers look good on the hull though, and they're a little sturdier than the 110s.


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Old May 06, 2012, 04:51 AM
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No problem on the photos Pseudonym. I wouldn't mind seeing how you have the inside of yours set up as well. I liked the way you did your Explorer.

Big drawback to running that type of stinger would be adjusting the angle since you'd pretty much have to pull it back off the boat to get an allen wrench into the adjusting screw. The Speedmaster stinger base will fit in the same area but has the same problem with adjustment.
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Old May 06, 2012, 11:52 AM
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No problem on the photos Pseudonym. I wouldn't mind seeing how you have the inside of yours set up as well. I liked the way you did your Explorer.

Big drawback to running that type of stinger would be adjusting the angle since you'd pretty much have to pull it back off the boat to get an allen wrench into the adjusting screw. The Speedmaster stinger base will fit in the same area but has the same problem with adjustment.
Yeah, no adjusting it while it's on there, but I was pretty confident that I wouldn't need to, so I was fine with that.
If you wanted to adjust it, you could epoxy an 1/8" pipe bung where the adjuster screw is to allow you to get to it, and use a pipe plug to seal it when you're running. It would be some additional work, but it would be prety nice when it's done.
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Old May 06, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Here are a couple pics of the inside. I did this build using specific off-the-shelf parts, so it turned out a little different. I usually use low profile servos so I can mount them back further without interference, and I would normally make carbon fiber motor mounts for it. I still think it turned out pretty nice though.
I had to send a water jacket out to get the correct o rings put in it, so they aren't in the pics. I also installed a hatch bolt kit similar to what's on my Explorer, and stuffing tube supports after taking these pics.


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Old May 06, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Now I'm curious as to what esc(s) you have hiding under that CF plate.

I was just coming iback to add a couple of pix of mine. This is something I started on Thursday and still not finished but... getting closer.
This is one of those paint jobs that Diesel would classify as "good from afar but far from good". On my own scale it's a 50/50. (at 50 feet and 50 mph nobody will notice the flaws) Still have to add paint for the windshield and clear over the whole thing once the decals are applied but at least it's no longer white.
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Last edited by bill34207; May 06, 2012 at 06:21 PM. Reason: added decal photo
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Old May 06, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Paint job looks fine Bill keep the pics coming , (dont forget the american flag decal on the rear quarter )
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