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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:13 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Originally Posted by john m taylor View Post
Guys
I dont know if anyone has been having trouble sending messages via this forum?I have sent several but my account still shows that none have been sent, or that they have been received by those who require my messages...

JT

Attachment 5496100
John
I just sent you a test PM.. I'm not having any problem but don't send a lot of these PM's...
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:54 PM
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Fleetwood, UK
Joined Dec 2010
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Jim
Thanks for the message, I received yours and sent a reply.

Cheers JT
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:56 PM
Love RC Yachts!!!
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Will this work? is it identical in the 50 lb weight you recommend?
http://www.amazon.com/300m-Fishing-S...d_sim_sbs_sg_4

I'd have to pull the deck patch to be sure if there is a tube in there but I never noticed one over the RMG winch when in there last.. I will look more carefully at the white teflon inserts too, since it's possible the sheet abrasion cut a groove in one or both of them that is now causing a part of the drag..
You can use it if you wish, but the weave looks a bit coarse in my opinion.
Go to a tackle shop, and actually feel the different lines. the better ones are SMOOTH, and limp. To my mind, Berkley Fireline & Whiplash are a bit too stiff. Grab a hold of some line, scrunch it up in your hand tightly, then let it go. the cheaper ones with hold their form, the better, and supple ones will fall straight again. This help when they have to negotiate corners going around blocks / fairleads, etc in the light stuff.

Sunline Super PE is the bang bang for your buck, followed by Power Pro.

I don't understand why running new sheets through the boat, and trimming to length is so hard??? It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes per sheet. You may have to adjust sheeting positions on booms a couple of millimeters or so on each rig, but that's normal.

As for the tubes, yes, they may be grooved, or have a touch of grit in them.
I have my rig tensioned pretty tight, as do others, and never noticed any hindrance in the jib swinging out. Make sure the counterweight is set so that when the boat is lying flat on its side, the aft end of the jib boom slowly dips below the horizontal.....

Just make sure the jib pivot is nice and free, as well as where it terminates up the mast. It's the little details that matter with this stuff...
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:00 AM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Originally Posted by bigpat View Post
You can use it if you wish, but the weave looks a bit coarse in my opinion.
Go to a tackle shop, and actually feel the different lines. the better ones are SMOOTH, and limp. To my mind, Berkley Fireline & Whiplash are a bit too stiff. Grab a hold of some line, scrunch it up in your hand tightly, then let it go. the cheaper ones with hold their form, the better, and supple ones will fall straight again. This help when they have to negotiate corners going around blocks / fairleads, etc in the light stuff.

Sunline Super PE is the bang bang for your buck, followed by Power Pro.

I don't understand why running new sheets through the boat, and trimming to length is so hard??? It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes per sheet. You may have to adjust sheeting positions on booms a couple of millimeters or so on each rig, but that's normal.

As for the tubes, yes, they may be grooved, or have a touch of grit in them.
I have my rig tensioned pretty tight, as do others, and never noticed any hindrance in the jib swinging out. Make sure the counterweight is set so that when the boat is lying flat on its side, the aft end of the jib boom slowly dips below the horizontal.....

Just make sure the jib pivot is nice and free, as well as where it terminates up the mast. It's the little details that matter with this stuff...
Great tips I was just thinking about going to a fishing line shop, SquidCo here in SanDiego is a good spot to do that .. I know some of these braided lines are so heavily coated it's hard to make knots that stick in them.. Regards, JimS
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Canada, BC, Campbell River
Joined Oct 2012
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I always lock the knots with a drop of CA. The last Spectra line(bulk stuff) I bought was very stiff and I noticed that some knots wre slipping. Some slipped right off! I had noticed that the CA beaded up when I applied it so I assumed there was a waxy coating on it. I now soak the "to-be-knotted" section in laquer thinner before knotting. Makes a big difference but it's a PITA. I will pay more attention when I buying the next spool.
Don
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:21 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales, The Mumbles
Joined Dec 2010
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BOR's build finale is proving to be very challenging! After the paint problem I had my first major laminating resin malfunction last night. The hull was not the only element which was turning blue!
Can a surface be too smooth for coating with resin?
Looks as if I will be sanding in ernest again this weekend.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:51 PM
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United Kingdom, London
Joined Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by FWAL View Post
BOR's build finale is proving to be very challenging! After the paint problem I had my first major laminating resin malfunction last night. The hull was not the only element which was turning blue!
Can a surface be too smooth for coating with resin?
Looks as if I will be sanding in ernest again this weekend.
not sure what's happenening with your painting and epoxying you should always wipe the job after preparing with a 'panel wipe' or 'tack cloth' before applying paints or epoxys
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:17 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
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Originally Posted by FWAL View Post
BOR's build finale is proving to be very challenging! After the paint problem I had my first major laminating resin malfunction last night. The hull was not the only element which was turning blue!
Can a surface be too smooth for coating with resin?
Looks as if I will be sanding in ernest again this weekend.

Email the photo directly to the Gougeon's shop - their technical guys have probably seen it all and are THE SOURCE for any WEST System questions. Be sure to include the substrate, polyester or epoxy hull original resin, etc. so they can understand all that you did.

Dick

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/email-q-and-a/
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 06:00 PM
Love RC Yachts!!!
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Aug 2012
163 Posts
It almost looks like the two aren't compatible....

It almost appears as if the boat has been made from a polyester or vinyl ester resin...
Prior to applying the resin:
1.Had you sanded down the hull to help the new resin key to it?
2. Did you wipe the hull down with grease & wax remover, or prepsol just prior?
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 12:56 AM
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Joined Feb 2013
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Club event

Good Day gentlemen,
First time user, long time reader. thought i would say hi and just let you all know of our club in sunny Auckland, New Zealand. Gulf Harbor Radio Yacht Club. well yesterday we had our yearly Energizer 6 Hour regatta. wow what a hot and eventful day.
Lots of photo's in our Gallery. so please have a look around.
www.ghryc.co.nz
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:32 AM
Yosef Sailor
dwatson's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
514 Posts
Looking for some advice.

I recently moved to Singapore and picked up second hand IOM and started to refinish it. New paint etc. I have the hull down to bare fberglass. No primer etc.

My question is "any advice on a painting fiberglass and getting a nice finish." What do I need to watch for? Any tips, tricks etc. ?

I want to get this thing out on the water very soon. The season here has already started.

Thanks in advance.
David
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:34 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales, The Mumbles
Joined Dec 2010
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BOR news

Please don't think that I'm hijacking this thread. I just think it could be helpful to other DIY builders and prospective builders to show what can go wrong so they can hopefully avoid making the same mistakes!
Regarding the paint problem I think the most probable cause of the bubbles and subsequent cracking was that the Appliance spray was not compatible with the undercoat/primer. The undercoat was alkyd based and suitable for plastic, metal and wood surfaces, the spray was Halfords Appliance Gloss White which I had used directly onto epoxy resin before and had no problems.
The forming of the Fish Eyes in the resin is a little bit more difficult to identify. However, whilst searching for the cause the most common answer was surface contamination. This might be the cause but the surface had been completely wet sanded, cleaned with acetone and rinsed with fresh water to remove all traces of the previous paint finishes. I was using West onto West and have been working with this epoxy for over a year and haven't had any prior major problems with mixing curing etc.
I did add a suitable pigment to the epoxy resin. It is a polyester colour paste and despite being polyester it can definitely be added to epoxy, or at least that's what the website quotes. With this particular product the mix ratio is as little as 1%. To coat an IOM I find 18ml (0.61fl.oz) is more than enough so I only required 0.18ml (0.0061fl.oz a tiny amount) of pigment! However, perhaps it only takes this very small amount to effect the viscosity of the West resin to form the Fish eyes.
So at present I'm only slightly the wiser. After a lot of sanding the decks and freeboard have had their second coat of pigmented resin which went on slightly better but there are still small areas where fish eyes are evident. I started to give the wetted hull area it's first coat of pigmented resin but stopped very soon after as the dreaded fish eyes started forming almost instantaneously.
James Edwards of http://www.robotyachts.co.uk/ has contacted me since reading about my problems and offered some helpful advice which I'm extremely grateful of. James suggests that adding some colloidal silica will thicken up the pigmented resin and in doing so should prevent the fish eyes developing.
As I've said to James you live and learn and I'm certainly learning a lot during the final stages of this project!
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 02:33 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Carving

Hi guys,

I would like to know how the boat is behaving in weak winds.

Thanks

Grigoris

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Originally Posted by KoneWone View Post
Hi Guys, Following completion of Carving IOM development and testing by Luca the site is now up http://www.barcheradiocomandate.it/carving/ in Italian and English.

Complete boats or hulls and full range parts & sails available with good delivery times.

Cheers Alan
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:20 PM
David Cook Victoria, BC Canada
Joined Oct 2012
271 Posts
Hi David,

I was in a similar boat as you a few years ago. I've tried all the paints and procedures. My two favorite paint jobs are done by Graham Herbert and Adrian Harrison and both by hand using a brush. They both also spent nearly or over $100 for a single paint brush. Badger hair I hear is the best. That said I saw one of my boats got on on a professional photographer's website from a different continent who was visiting our region when I was attending a regatta. That was cool.

My paint job usually send a statement. Some think they're great, some awful. My favorite is when children watch our IOMs racing one yells out "I like the pink or rainbow one the best" makes it all worth while.

You need to decide what's important to you e.g. cost, environmentally friendly, ease of applying, colour (do you want it to blend in or stand out), time, etc.

After trying sprays, brush on, oil, arcylic, latex, automotive, marine epoxy, poly, my favorite right now (until epoxy pigments are ratified by ISAF) is arcylic base. It washes up with water, has a wide range of colours and tints and doesn't smell up the house (a very important criteria to my wife). Also they are cheap but for my IOMs money is no object. Self-satisfaction is. Wet sanding through the range of grits up to 2500 makes any paint job look good.

Here's a few of my paint jobs for you to look at which might spark an idea for you.

Cheers

David too
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 07:58 PM
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Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,321 Posts
Not sure if it is the photo or the final finish, but the "rainbow" hull looks like it was painted with water colors, and the color saturation isn't to my (personal) liking. Just my opinion of course.
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