DID YOU READ THE MANUAL ??????????????????????????????

There are some specific things you have to do to bind to the DX4 ....
putting the blades on correctly WILL help too LOL

Originally Posted by joliecoeur13

putting the blades on correctly WILL help too LOL

Actually, after looking at those photos again, it looks like he took the picture in a mirror or somehow reversed the image.

Either way, it looks like WAY too much negative pitch...

first of all i did read the manual...it was already bound to it when i got it...second of all there is only one way to place the blades unless i flip them upside down...and third of all its the swashplate that controls the direction the blades are pointing (tilting left or right) not the way the blades are put on.

So i would love if a sophisticated...professional could help me out...not some scrub who finds sarcasm directed at a new member funny

EDIT: koko (this wasnt directed toward you BTW)
and how do i add more positive pitch to it on a DX4e? I took this with my laptop iSight camera.

Originally Posted by JMull

EDIT: koko (this wasnt directed toward you BTW)
and how do i add more positive pitch to it on a DX4e? I took this with my laptop iSight camera.

Well, without being able to adjust the pitch curve on that radio...

You need to make a mechanical change. You need to raise the swashplate to add positive pitch. You do this by popping off all three swashplate links and turning them OUT (counter clockwise, looking down) by the same amount of full turns for each one. This will effectively lengthen the pushrods from the servos to the swashplate and push the swashplate (and leading edges of the blades) up.

Also, make absolutely sure your white main gear is pressed fully up against the bottom of the frame.

And, just to be sure you have the blades on correctly... With the blades at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, when looking down on the heli (tail towards you), you want the "bullet/protrusion" on the left blade pointing forward and the one on the right blade pointing aft (towards you).

Thinkin about the v2 purchase, any advice guys?

I can give a stab at helping you, looks like you need to level out the arms, turn on throttle hold and put throttle stick mid stick, the blades should appear level if done right, u can raise and lower the servo pushrods by turning them,

Sometimes they can get bent and stuff so give that a try, tbh i have never flown one on a dx4, i think i tried to bind one of mine once to see how bad it was

Hope this helps
THE STU

Originally Posted by X_ColonelAngus_X

Thinkin about the v2 purchase, any advice guys?

I really love mcpx and all, but after i got out of the craze and bought my 450 and 250 i find my v1 with grommets and stock length tail rewired to be sufficient, it flies good,

I really dont think anyone needs more than 1 mcpx if they want to really enjoy the other aspects of the hobby "COMING FROM THE GUY WHO JUST THREW OUT
7 MCPX BNF/RTF BOXES"

Originally Posted by X_ColonelAngus_X

Thinkin about the v2 purchase, any advice guys?

NO do not get it. I have heard many different things about how much better the v1 is than the v2...i know for a fact that the v2 shakes extremely while flying especially trying to do aerobatics. Get the v1.

And thanks to STU and koko I'll give it a whirl.

koko..a friend of mine at my RC club told me something like that but i had no idea what he was talking about... thank you

and when u say 3 you mean the 2 to the servos and the 1 other one, but not the one in the guard, right?

@jmull Id like to read about this, can you link me to someone posting about this, this is good news to me i was thinkin for my next mcp if i do get one of going v2

And it seem a v2's should be better as a production upgrade, wow. V1 huh

Originally Posted by JMull

koko..a friend of mine at my RC club told me something like that but i had no idea what he was talking about... thank you

and when u say 3 you mean the 2 to the servos and the 1 other one, but not the one in the guard, right?

You need to adjust all 3 pushrod ball links (black plastic thingie on upper end of each pushrod) from all three servos, including the rear one in the "guard". You need to make sure you turn them out the same number of full turns so you keep the swashplate level. You need to do full 360 degree turns because the links only fit on the balls properly one way. You can't do a "half 180 turn" and expect them to fit right.

Originally Posted by Stugoose

I really love mcpx and all, but after i got out of the craze and bought my 450 and 250 i find my v1 with grommets and stock length tail rewired to be sufficient, it flies good,

I really dont think anyone needs more than 1 mcpx if they want to really enjoy the other aspects of the hobby "COMING FROM THE GUY WHO JUST THREW OUT
7 MCPX BNF/RTF BOXES"

Why did u go through 7? Is this heli that faulty on 3in1 board or what.
Of the tenergy, hyperion and lectrons what one is the best lipo?

I did not use a sim, just learned on mcpx's, It was worth it, Boards do fry and stuff like that,


Sometimes servos got shot, i leatrned inverted hover on it too so add that in themix

Originally Posted by X_ColonelAngus_X

Why did u go through 7? Is this heli that faulty on 3in1 board or what.

I wondered that myself before when he talked about owning/modifying all those mCP X's and then "offing" them one by one.

I think he's a closet "Dexter-esque" psycho killer of mCP X helis...

Originally Posted by Stugoose

@jmull Id like to read about this, can you link me to someone posting about this, this is good news to me i was thinkin for my next mcp if i do get one of going v2

heres one:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1555930

i also no from experience from watching my friend fly (he is quite experienced) and the tail was shaking very hard and so was the body of the heli...there are many more complaints like this one...i think its a common issue.

Its worse than the v1 and it doesnt add any new fancy additions so i dont think its worth it to get the v2...thats why i got the v1

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