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Old Feb 02, 2016, 06:42 PM
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The only thing I have ever dropped are little marshmallows. Looks great!
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 11:47 AM
giulianomx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yorkiepap View Post
I cured that issue by making a simple plastic cover over the servo. Everything just slides out now....

Denny
Thank you Denny, what kind of plastic is that? Where did you get it?
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rightfly View Post
No the cowl is not real easy to remove and you are right it is glued. Fortunately the glue is put on in small strips so it is possible to remove without destroying it. A poster named "Sykon" did a great pictorial on page 45 and post 671 of this thread.

Follow this url directly to his post:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=671

Good luck. It can easily be repaired if you break it. I do not glue it back on the nose, I use some white 3M tape I found in a True Value hardware store - probably the stuff they sell at hobby suppliers as aileron tape at an inflated price. Two little strips on each side hold it in place well and is really hard to see. (Especially at 300 feet).

Roger
Thank you to Rightfly and Skykon for the post I was able to remove the cowl without any issues. I want to mention that most of the stuff holding the cowl in place is a really sticky double sided tape, I didn't see residuals of hot glue, but I could be wrong, maybe the manufacturer uses white hot glue of some kind.

Anyway, here are some pictures I took yesterday after removing the cowl.

Thank you again.

PS: I noticed the pictures I've attached were cropped on this site, specially the parts where I am showing the details of the cow and fuselage nose.
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 12:34 PM
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How can I drill a hole on the Du-Bro nose gear rod, so I can obtain the same results as the original nose gear rod as shown in the picture attached?
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giulianomx View Post
How can I drill a hole on the Du-Bro nose gear rod, so I can obtain the same results as the original nose gear rod as shown in the picture attached?
No holes necessary, file a flat spot at the location's, then use thread lock on the screw, It will work well that way.

Regards

Dennis
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giulianomx View Post
Thank you Denny, what kind of plastic is that? Where did you get it?
Hey giuliano,
I picked up a sheet(12" X 18") at my LHS. I don't think it's anything special. It's .032(.8mm) thick. I measured the length, hgt, & width I would need, cut out the plastic piece, & held it against a piece of 1.5" square alum. tubing & used my heat gun to gently heat the corner bends till I got the rectangular shape. Then I simply epoxied it in place. Quite easy....

Denny
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 09:36 PM
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Giuliano - Glad to see that you got your nose gear out. The original doesn't look too bad. I've straightened mine several times and it keeps on ticking. If you do use the DuBro gear, recommend socket head cap screws instead of the socket set screws or the cross head. You'll get better leverage for tightening. When I reinstalled the cowl, I wrapped a length of white 3M vinyl electrical tape around the joint. I got my tape from Lowes.

For the drop door servo I also used a shield. I bent a piece of cardboard and taped it on with the 3M tape I had. Not pretty but works and is removable if needed to get to the servo.

Bud
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Old Feb 04, 2016, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yorkiepap View Post
Hey giuliano,
I picked up a sheet(12" X 18") at my LHS. I don't think it's anything special. It's .032(.8mm) thick. I measured the length, hgt, & width I would need, cut out the plastic piece, & held it against a piece of 1.5" square alum. tubing & used my heat gun to gently heat the corner bends till I got the rectangular shape. Then I simply epoxied it in place. Quite easy....

Denny
Hi Denny, what is the sheet called?

Thank you so much for the detail explanation.
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Old Feb 04, 2016, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud42 View Post
Giuliano - Glad to see that you got your nose gear out. The original doesn't look too bad. I've straightened mine several times and it keeps on ticking. If you do use the DuBro gear, recommend socket head cap screws instead of the socket set screws or the cross head. You'll get better leverage for tightening. When I reinstalled the cowl, I wrapped a length of white 3M vinyl electrical tape around the joint. I got my tape from Lowes.

For the drop door servo I also used a shield. I bent a piece of cardboard and taped it on with the 3M tape I had. Not pretty but works and is removable if needed to get to the servo.

Bud
Thank you bud, man, this community is awesome, too many good recommendations, now I need to make a decision
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Old Feb 05, 2016, 12:02 AM
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Here I am again,

I am planning to install the Dubro E/Z Brake System on my sensei, yes, sounds crazy but I already bought it, thinking I can use it on my Top Flite Cessna 182 Skyline but I can't because I use a Robart in the nose gear already which is way bigger in diameter. I cannot even use it in the main landing gear wheels either. Also, I cannot use it on my P51 Mustang, so I thought it would be cool to use it on the sensei but the rod from the bent part of it where the wheel goes is too short after installing the drum in it. I've purchase a DuBro nose gear rod but when I try to bend it on my vise, it broke so maybe the wire is not meant for that or I use a wrong technique (hammer and brutal force)

Someone was very nice in some other thread here at rcgroups and suggested me using a brass tube to extend the rod. I just need to extend 1/2 inch. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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