Yeah I figured that, its all stuck down underneath as well with some kind of tape. think it might be more trouble than its worth trying to fix it, probably easier to let HK deal with it.

Took the chance and tried flashing my other 1.2 working board. everything went fine with this board --- running v1.5 now, anyone experincing its a litte more "wobbly" with 1.5? or do i just need to adjust pi values again?
it must have been the board that was faulty, cause with the other board it worked. Nice work KK regards from Denmark

kapteinkuk,

First may i say how impressed i am with fw1.5 on my kk2 board. It works really well, i love the new self level and gimbal feature.

I'm developing a very simple gimbal for multirotors that uses 2 servos for tilt and roll at the same time, similar to this system but much simpler and very easier to build. I will release a 'how to build it' thread once it's working properly.
So far the gimbal works really well when i use delta wing mixing on my transmitter, it's operation is very smooth.
However as your current gimbal software uses conventional gimbal outputs (1 servo for pitch & 1 servo for roll) i have to use a seperate v tail mixer to give me the required differential output.
The problem is all these cheap vtail servo mixers only have 200 steps for the servos and this makes the servos very notchy / jerky in motion causing the camera to shake and vibrate.
So my question is can you modify the gimbal part of the code to output channels 7 & 8 in differential mode so i can remove the cheap low resolution mixer and have smooth servos?
Cheers Ian

vartaz,

You will need to readjust your pi values for v1.5. I tried using the same values at first but quickly realized the need for re-tuning.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by vartaz

Took the chance and tried flashing my other 1.2 working board. everything went fine with this board --- running v1.5 now, anyone experincing its a litte more "wobbly" with 1.5? or do i just need to adjust pi values again?
it must have been the board that was faulty, cause with the other board it worked. Nice work KK regards from Denmark

Describe wobbly.

I have found that self-level gain was far too high even if the PI settings were correct.

Originally Posted by crezzee

I'm developing a very simple gimbal for multirotors that uses 2 servos for tilt and roll at the same time.....

Please keep us informed and post link to the 'how to build it' thread!

I am having lots of trouble with my Tri and the KK2 board. When I launch it immediately pulls left and lands on it back.

I upgraded to the 1.5 firmware, the board is facing forward (buttons in the rear), the motors and props are correct, and I calibrated the ESCs.

During the Reciever Test the Aileron and Elevator were reversed. I fixed that on my Tx, but I am woried that the gyros are also reversed. Anybody else have to reverse the Ail and Elv channels?

Originally Posted by balch

I am having lots of trouble with my Tri and the KK2 board. When I launch it immediately pulls left and lands on it back.

I upgraded to the 1.5 firmware, the board is facing forward (buttons in the rear), the motors and props are correct, and I calibrated the ESCs.

During the Reciever Test the Aileron and Elevator were reversed. I fixed that on my Tx, but I am woried that the gyros are also reversed. Anybody else have to reverse the Ail and Elv channels?

The first thing you want to do is make sure you have the "TRICOPTER" selected in your motor layout.

Second thing you want to do is go into the RECEIVER TEST screen, and verify when your right stick moves left/right, the KK2 reports left & right respectively. Same for forward/reverse. Also verify the left stick reports left/right yaw as well.

Originally Posted by balch

I am having lots of trouble with my Tri and the KK2 board. When I launch it immediately pulls left and lands on it back.

I upgraded to the 1.5 firmware, the board is facing forward (buttons in the rear), the motors and props are correct, and I calibrated the ESCs.

During the Reciever Test the Aileron and Elevator were reversed. I fixed that on my Tx, but I am woried that the gyros are also reversed. Anybody else have to reverse the Ail and Elv channels?

Remove the blades.

Put auto level on.

While in your hand spool up the motors, and start tilting.

Motors in the direction of tilt should speed up if everything is in order.

balch, I didn't even have to reverse my tx after going from 1.0, to 1.2, to 1.4. I think 1.5 is identical to 1.4 but with camera stabilization. The immediate pull back means the self level trim needs some adjustment. Use large trim values to see an effect.

After more flying it is time to share my PIDs:

P=50
Plim=100
I=35
Ilim=20
SelfLevel P=100
SelfLevel Plim=20

...with the following setup:
FW450 frame
NTM 28-26-1200
GWS 9050HD props
3s2200 40C
HK Blue Series 20 esc's (SimonK)
~41oz AUW

Here is another fun FPV video taken with these settings. Now it flies so well I am on the fence as to whether or not I am going to follow through with my original plan and remove the KK2 to replace with an APM2.5+uBLox FC that just arrived... no exaggerations my friends, it's that good when it's tuned right:

Birds Attack Quad (7 min 15 sec)

In that first video, I got mixed up with a flock of pigeons.

Enjoy,
Kev

Originally Posted by Truglodite

Now it flies so well I am on the fence as to whether or not I am going to follow through with my original plan and remove the KK2 to replace with an APM2.5+uBLox FC that just arrived... no exaggerations my friends, it's that good when it's tuned right:

You better put that APM2.5 to use!! if not... I know someone who will

Originally Posted by flarssen

The servo electronics have an internal signal that is defined by the position of the pot. It compares the input signal from the receiver with the internal signal. If there is a mismatch, it powers the motor, and the servo arm and pot rotates until the internal signal matches the one from the receiver. Bigger difference between signals means more power to the motor. When pot is replaced with fixed resistors, internal signal will always be the same. If this fixed signal represents the neutral position, a stick movement in one direction gives voltage on the motor wires (LED). The further the stick is away from center, the higher the voltage will be. If stick is moved the other way, the same happens but voltage will have opposite polarity. So by connecting one red and one green LED to the motor output with opposite orientation, one can have red/ off /green when used with a three position switch on the TX.

Fred

Thanks it is a little clearer any chance of a wiring digram

Regards Jeff

Originally Posted by Truglodite

GWS 9050HD props
Kev

Hello
Can you tell me if your propellers are those ?
Thanks

Hi All this is my second board ( first was brain dead) anyway I cant seem to get rid of what appears to me as high P "shakes" if I lower the P numbers the quad becomes unflyable but the shaking persists all the way down in P numbers

IMG 0476[1] (1 min 35 sec)

Any ideas please

Jeff

woot! my stuff came today
kk2, 4x turnigy lbec 2a esc 10A (multistar), and some props.
hopefully will be building this weekend :3