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Old Mar 06, 2012, 09:04 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Dec 2006
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Champ Brick glue what is it????

I had to take my brick out of my champ to repair a servo. But I want to use the same type of stuff they used. What is it? The white stuff, flexible yet holds great. Any help?? Thanks.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 10:48 AM
Registered User
Beaumont, TX
Joined Feb 2007
1,315 Posts
Well, last time I checked, even Horizon didn't know what glue the factory used. Most people recommend a silicon type caulk that is non acidic (i.e. no sharp vinegar smell) as it can be corrosive to the electronics. Otherwise, use what you have at hand and like: hot glue, canopy glue, etc.

I'm sure someone else will pop in and give another opinion.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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Yes its electronics silicon caulk, but it takes forever to dry, so its non ideal.

I use low temp hot melt glue. You can remove the brick without having to cut it out.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
I use low temp hot melt glue. You can remove the brick without having to cut it out.
I agree, I used a strap of hot glue to secure each side of the mount to the foam when I replaced my Champ's motor, and that undergoes a lot more stress than the RX brick does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Miller View Post
Well, last time I checked, even Horizon didn't know what glue the factory used.
I'm sure someone else will pop in and give another opinion.
I know what glue...that rubber based solvent thinned contact glue that comes with most Chinese foamies is very much like caulk when cured and would do well in your application, no doubt. I just used a teeny dab of it this morning to keep the ESC from shifting in the nose of my Durafly micro Slick 360 and possibly breaking the thin magnet wire used to connect it to the AP05 motor, and it's perfect.

HobbyKing sells it, you might want to lay some in for your toolbox, right here. Wait for it to come back in stock, it's great stuff and you'll notice that HK itself lists the active chemical as "Magic," which it is!

I still recommend only water based aliphatic resins like Sig-Bond or Franklin Titebond for repairing any foam breaks...all these guys using Gorilla Glue or epoxy are asking for a big weight gain IMO. The aliphatic resins thin and clean up with water and offer a good working time, unlike the foam safe CA glues...no one seems to want to put their impatience aside these days but with aliphatic resins you get a super lightweight and strong bond, undetectable if it's a clean break in the foam.
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Last edited by mu2freighter; Mar 06, 2012 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 01:28 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Dec 2006
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Thanks guys. I guess I'm going to give hot glue a try. Thanks!
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 01:46 PM
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Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Silkeborg
Joined Nov 2009
679 Posts
UHU Por does the job fine too. I'll typically cover the two surfaces that have to be glued, let it cure a bit, then glue them together.
A good tip, is to cover the bottom of the brick with some tape to avoid glue to get in contact with it (depending on the chosen tape, it might be worth sanding it to make the glue stick better).
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 02:37 PM
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United States, CA, SF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlerD View Post
Thanks guys. I guess I'm going to give hot glue a try. Thanks!
Hot glue works great, just don't put on to much because it a lot.

Free

P.S. I use hot glue for my micros.
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