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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:32 PM
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United States, GA, Jonesboro
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thanks, im trying to stay with the 30 esc's, not sure yet if ill be able to. ill have to check the meter when i hook it all up. i know that 2 blades pull less amps than 3 blades. so ill just have to see. whats wrong with the decals hawk? dont like the scheme, or wrong size? i nearly ordered a set of all alloy retracts for the GC the other day, but after i looked into all the work i'd have to do to change them out, & all the money ive spent lately, ive changed my mind for now. ive also got more projects than i can handle right now. but i do plan to get the GC upgraded & flying again soon.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:50 PM
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heres some pics without the motor. you can see that the manufactor has designed in some down angle, and left thrust angle. ill probably grind those spacers on the mounts off. it'll help me with securing the new motor mount. and with counter props, it should cancel out a lot of the angle ill need. RIGHT?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Gchrisgo34, what's the trick to putting the decals on straight and without bubbles. It's just a one shot deal, right? Keep the pics coming
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Shreveport Louisiana
Joined Dec 2006
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Originally Posted by gchrisgo34 View Post
heres some pics without the motor. you can see that the manufactor has designed in some down angle, and left thrust angle. ill probably grind those spacers on the mounts off. it'll help me with securing the new motor mount. and with counter props, it should cancel out a lot of the angle ill need. RIGHT?
Careful with grinding those flat. Your cowls are molded with the same angle Once you grind those flat your spinner will be gaped on one side where it meets the cowl. You need to also consider keeping the down thrust to keep from excessive lift. With stronger motors you will notice this a lot more.

Orion
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rcflyinff View Post
Gchrisgo34, what's the trick to putting the decals on straight and without bubbles. It's just a one shot deal, right? Keep the pics coming
You may be able to spray the surface of the foam down with soapy water, lay the decal over the area and use a credit card or squeegee to move the air bubbles and extra water out from under the decal. Let it dry and she will be smooth.

Orion
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Gchrisgo34, what's the trick to putting the decals on straight and without bubbles. It's just a one shot deal, right? Keep the pics coming
the stock decals were easy to pull back off, as long as i just set them on the model & didnt press them down. i would line them up the best i could, then just set them down, & if i didnt like the alignment, id pull them up & re-set them. once i had them where i liked them, then id press them down, from the inside-out. where i had "un-avoidable" wrinkles, i'd take a hobby razor & make a small slit in the decal, and push it down flat. i forgot to go back and press down the two decals on my elevater & one flew off during flight. i never saw it come off.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Okay,

Really dumb question: Which screws are used to attached the spinners? I see 6 long screws but they seem way too long ~35mm. Can that be correct? Have the back plates on the hex nuts.

Getting closer. Been putzing around with decals on and off all day.

-Hawk
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:44 PM
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hawk, its the small screws without the baseplates. recieved my order from rctimer.com today. these are the 35-30 motors compared to the turnigy 35-36. as you can see, they're basically the same thing. just a couple differences. the CF counter props are very nice, the servo extensions are excellent quality. ive also got a few more props & motor adaptors not in the pics. 100 magnets for $6. so check out rctimer, theyve got a lot of great deals. 10 servo extensions for $5, you cant beat it. i might try the 35-30 motors first, since they'll fit better, & they call for 30amp esc's.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Thanks
One more dumb question: can't get gear to work - at all !

3 way y connector plugged into channel 5. Nada

I must not know the secret handshake.

Still trying everything to get any sign of life. No verks !
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:36 PM
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Retired Relic's Avatar
United States, AZ, Tucson
Joined Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by dahawk47 View Post
Thanks
One more dumb question: can't get gear to work - at all !

3 way y connector plugged into channel 5. Nada

I must not know the secret handshake.

Still trying everything to get any sign of life. No verks !
really dumb ???????????
is tx on,============ flip rt sw=========== got power =====rt plane???
please do not ask why i would ask these partic??
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:39 PM
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United States, Mt, Libby
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Originally Posted by dahawk47 View Post
Thanks
One more dumb question: can't get gear to work - at all !

3 way y connector plugged into channel 5. Nada

I must not know the secret handshake.

Still trying everything to get any sign of life. No verks !
Start at the beginning....are all 3 gear plugged into the 3 way, and proper polarity, then make sure you have the 3 way plugged into the Rx with proper polarity. Check your end points on channel 5. It shouldn't matter as they aren't servos but there are some elec. retracts that like +100 up to +150 ion end points in order to work.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Making slight progress. Switched a few wires on the three way and the mains work. Now for the Nose gear. nose gear not working. Not even trying. RX is bound. Channel 5 appears normal. I noticed when I did some connector switching on the three way, I'd get intermittent one main down the other not moving. Even went half way one time and stopped.

I'll be back later, We have our club meeting tonight and I was supposed to bring a dish. Yikes !
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Herman Munster View Post
Start at the beginning....are all 3 gear plugged into the 3 way, and proper polarity, then make sure you have the 3 way plugged into the Rx with proper polarity. Check your end points on channel 5. It shouldn't matter as they aren't servos but there are some elec. retracts that like +100 up to +150 ion end points in order to work.
With Futaba, It may be a minus number. My max epa is +140.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dahawk47 View Post
Making slight progress. Switched a few wires on the three way and the mains work. Now for the Nose gear. nose gear not working. Not even trying. RX is bound. Channel 5 appears normal. I noticed when I did some connector switching on the three way, I'd get intermittent one main down the other not moving. Even went half way one time and stopped.
Sounds like the original retracts on my GC. When setting up the airplane, I used my servo tester to check all the electronics. I just flat couldn't get the retracts to work reliably with the tester. Sometimes one main and the nose gear would work, sometimes one of the mains would come halfway up and stop... Every time I exercised the gear, something different would happen, but I could never get the gear to work correctly in unison, even once. So I thought it was maybe the tester. I hooked up my transmitter and started testing. The only reaction I could ever get was the initial "jerk" of the gears when the retracts powered up. I called NP tech support, and they said they didn't know anything about the servo tester, but that Dynam/Airfield retracts have a known issue with some Airtronics radios. Just so happens, I have an Airtronics SD-6G. NP suggested I call Airtronics, and in the mean time they would send me a replacement set of retracts just in case the problem was with them.

The retracts were on backorder for about two months, and I just received them last week and I haven't had a chance to test them. While I was waiting, I called Airtronics, and was told that they were aware of the issue, but basically it wasn't a big enough problem for them to do anything about it - rather than suggest I move up to an SD-10G, which doesn't have that problem.

Unless you have an Airtronics radio, you'll probably get them to eventually work by playing with end point adjustment on your transmitter. It would probably be worth calling NP tech support - you might score a free replacement set of retracts for your trouble. I installed some "previously-owned" E-Flites that I had in my parts bin. They are expensive, but they just flat work.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:53 PM
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Okay,

Back to testing. I've determined I'm dead in the water on the nose gear retract.. Conducted several different tests.

Have an esc hooked up to BL motor and futaba rx. Plugged into the channel 3 All good. Motor works. RX beeps.

Have another plane (scratchbuilt airliner) with servoless retracts. In fact, they are very similar to the Dynam retracts. 1) Directly plugged connector into rx. Works, no problem. 2) Plugged into different Y connector and then to rx. Works, no problem. Plugged into Dynam supplied Y connector. Works, no problem. So my other servoless retract works in a stand alone set-up

Tried again plugging C310 nose gear into Dynam Y connector. No go. Tried using other plane's Y connector. No go. Both Y connectors are good. Check

The mains work fine but the nose gear retract is dead on arrival. Not a budge, a grunt, groan. Nothing. Completely powerless.

I guess the next step is to contact Basil at Grayson

4th down...

Hawk
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