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Old Feb 09, 2016, 03:20 PM
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FWIW, when I was talking about "lighter", I meant I'd probably build a flat foamie of about the same size which *should* be lighter (without electronics) than the original plane.
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanEW710 View Post
FWIW, when I was talking about "lighter", I meant I'd probably build a flat foamie of about the same size which *should* be lighter (without electronics) than the original plane.
Ahhh, understood.
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 03:41 PM
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Ahhh, understood.
My goal with this would be getting the same power and flight time, just with better motor longevity and consistency.

Is that goal possible?
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 03:58 PM
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Based on looking at amp draws for given thrust levels I believe brushless can be more efficient. So assuming same use of throttle/prop speed I'd think it could be more flight time with the AUW close.
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanEW710 View Post
My goal with this would be getting the same power and flight time, just with better motor longevity and consistency.

Is that goal possible?
Interesting question. For reference, my totally subjective observation is that in straight and level flight, about 70% throttle with the brushless set up gets me about the same speed as WOT did with the brushed motor.

My experience has been that I have lower flight times - I set my flight timers about 30-45 seconds lower than I did when the planes were brushed. On the other hand, with the greater available power I tend to fly at higher power levels than I did previously because it's more fun. Thus, it's a bit of a chicken or egg question.

Ultimately I would say that you will certainly get longer motor life and if you restrain your throttle usage to comparable power levels vs. brushed you would most likely get similar flight times. None of the conversions I've done are 3D type of aircraft so I can't comment from personal experience as to how that type of flying would be affected but I tend to believe the results would be similar.

So I guess the ultimate question is "How good is your self control?"
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 07:11 PM
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So I guess the ultimate question is "How good is your self control?"
Well, I refuse to fly my larger (3S, 38" span) foamies at any more than 70% throttle, and that includes hover-catching. I guess you can say I'm capable.
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 08:20 PM
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Well, I refuse to fly my larger (3S, 38" span) foamies at any more than 70% throttle, and that includes hover-catching. I guess you can say I'm capable.
Ha! Sounds like you may be a candidate for this upgrade!
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 09:27 AM
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Very nice thread. Thank you.

Thanks to mejmea for suggesting a brushless conversion to me.

I saw Woody's post about using the Nano CP X upgrade ESC and motor.
I have the upgrade in my heli which I haven't flown in the longest time - got bored with helis once I learned how to fly CP - plus I don't care to focus throughout my flights rather than have fun. I also have an mCPX that I definitely don't love and don't mind salvaging its tail rotor. If I have to, I'd rather buy motors and ESCs from one spot, hence HK. One of Valiant's recommended ESCs (6A) is replaced now by this one. XP-7A is backordered but not a big deal, I'm not in any rush - there is no immediacy in my deciding on this.

I have no idea what the ESC (BLH3326) max current spec is and I can't seem to find it on Google. I have a few questions:

1. I'm guessing the amp draw of the UM P-51 stock prop is well within the Nano motor's limit but we don't know if the same holds for the Nano ESC? Thoughts?
2. Where do yo get pico connectors if using an ESC like XP7A?
3. Any extra pinion gear purchases are optional?

My questions stem from: While I would like to use my Nano parts that are sitting idle, if I have to buy new parts, I don't mind - I don't want to fry my Nano components. Fyi, if I do a conversion I will be buying a new P-51 and then doing it on that. Minimal connector incompatibility issues would be nice.

Would love to hear your opinions.
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Old Mar 13, 2016, 10:40 AM
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Not sure if this fits in on the 1S thread, but I though I would let you guys know that the stock brushed receiver for the 1S Sport Cub S can be used for a brushless upgrade. I just upgraded my Sport Cub S to a 2S brushless and kept SAFE. All I had to do was use an External ESC flashed with Blheli with the signal polarity reversed. I did a 2S upgrade but this would work fine for 1S as well.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post34245202
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Old Apr 15, 2016, 10:34 PM
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Hi guys! I'm looking to do my first UM brushless conversion, but I'm not sure how to get my receiver into brushless mode. I've tried the technique for getting the AR6400's into brushless mode, but it doesn't seem to be working. I'm using the brick from the Sport Cub S, and I'm not ignoring the post above from necbot, it's just that I don't know how to load bootloader onto my YEP 7A esc, and thus cannot flash it with the settings that necbot came up with. So, my question is, is how do I get this AS3X Sport Cub S receiver into brushless mode?
Thank you for any help and insight you can offer!
-Michael
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Old Apr 15, 2016, 10:58 PM
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It's a SAFE RX so it is different from the older 6400. Besides the ESC firmware does the conversion to run the brushless motor for you anyway.

If the YEP already has BLHeli on it you may not need to flash it but just get/make an adapter. If you do, go here and download the zip from the mediafire link and read a LOT in the manuals sub-directory found in the zip file. There is info on making and using adapters in that same directory, also.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...38&postcount=1

The YEP7A is roughly the 7th ESC from the bottom of the Atmel supported ESC PDF so it can be done if it doesn't already have the firmware loaded.

If all of that is too much, maybe just look for the ESC with the firmware already flashed or a shop that can do that for you?

I hope you do a build log, but this is still on my TO DO list.
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Old Apr 16, 2016, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rust0014 View Post
Hi guys! I'm looking to do my first UM brushless conversion, but I'm not sure how to get my receiver into brushless mode. I've tried the technique for getting the AR6400's into brushless mode, but it doesn't seem to be working. I'm using the brick from the Sport Cub S, and I'm not ignoring the post above from necbot, it's just that I don't know how to load bootloader onto my YEP 7A esc, and thus cannot flash it with the settings that necbot came up with. So, my question is, is how do I get this AS3X Sport Cub S receiver into brushless mode?
Thank you for any help and insight you can offer!
-Michael
You doing one cell or 2 cell brushless? I assume from the thread you are in one, but you never know...
as above, the sport cub receiver doesn't do brushless mode. You need to either flash your ESC, or add a second receiver.
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Old Apr 17, 2016, 02:22 PM
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Thank you, GottaZoom for the insight and the pointers! The esc that I'm working with doesn't have the firmware loaded, so I'm working on figuring out what tools I need to flash it. Yes dacaur, I'm sticking with one cell for now! I can't say I've heard the idea of using a second receiver before, do you have and diagrams, or pictures of how that would wire up? Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 17, 2016, 02:36 PM
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Question for you guys. If I use the Nano CP X ESC (and motor), apparently that does not have LVC and the throttle can get stuck on wot during failsafe. If I limit throttle range (I believe I can do that on my DX6i) to something like 80% or 90%, would that protect the ESC from damage in case 100% is too close to the amp limit? Plane in concern is the UM P-51.

PS - Ok, I just realized that was a dumb statement - the ESC will see the full current regardless of throttle level. But I want to know if limiting throttle range is possible to mitigate the effect of signal loss. Thoughts? Any advice is welcome.
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Old Apr 17, 2016, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rust0014 View Post
Thank you, GottaZoom for the insight and the pointers! The esc that I'm working with doesn't have the firmware loaded, so I'm working on figuring out what tools I need to flash it. Yes dacaur, I'm sticking with one cell for now! I can't say I've heard the idea of using a second receiver before, do you have and diagrams, or pictures of how that would wire up? Thanks guys!
As far as flashing hardware, the Arduino Nano is well regarded and it is very cheap (at least the one I got from Banggood was, though I have yet to successfully flash an ESC - hopefully will by next weekend if HK delivers parts) and is supported by the BLHSuite software. I use an old servo cable for pin connections on the Arduino.

Be sure to check notes for the ESC on PDF as sometimes not all features are supported for all battery cell counts or there may be other points to make sure you understand before starting.

As far as the 2nd receiver, all it needs to have is the motor/ESC on throttle channel and be insulated from the SAFE board. I have some links to wiring on my blog but for 1S you can run power to both, assuming 2nd receiver will support that. 2S gets a little more complicated but the SAFE board can be run off a BEC with voltage regulation.

You'll want to test and make sure they both bind, run both motors (before disconnecting the brushed motor) do fail-safe, etc. Both receivers need to be same class, per Spektrum rep. So DSMX (putting TX in DSM2 mode and binding both together seemed to work in a test I did) RX may be best.

Personally, I'll go straight to 2S, just for thrust to cover the increased weight but I hope it works out fine with what you have planned.
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