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Old May 22, 2015, 10:35 AM
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I fly mostly powered sailplanes and need to use the left stick for wing control instead of throttle. I am used to a MPX Royal Evo and have used the button on the left side above the grips to control throttle. Yes, all or none is normal, no proportional control needed. SF is a possible alternate, but I would rather use a button, even if it is in the same location. And it needs to be momentary at the very least.

I like the recessed (sort of) nature of the Evo button, and can see reaching it at the SF position if an easy replacement exists. I have read through the earlier discussions about adding a button, but those were more for a less problematic purpose than a throttle control for a 4kW motor. A toggle or exposed button may not be a good idea for this! Anyone know of a button I could replace SF with that is fairly firm and low profile, like the Evo button?
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Old May 22, 2015, 11:18 AM
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I would create a logical switch that is based on holding the momentary more than 1 second.
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Old May 22, 2015, 01:02 PM
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In other words, a delay of 1 second before power comes on? Not sure I understand...
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Old May 22, 2015, 02:22 PM
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Yes, I think that's what he's recommending, so that if you accidentally just bump the switch the prop isn't going to bite.

Chris
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Old Yesterday, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitfoxdrvr View Post

I like the recessed (sort of) nature of the Evo button, and can see reaching it at the SF position if an easy replacement exists. I have read through the earlier discussions about adding a button, but those were more for a less problematic purpose than a throttle control for a 4kW motor. A toggle or exposed button may not be a good idea for this! Anyone know of a button I could replace SF with that is fairly firm and low profile, like the Evo button?
+1.

I need such a button too so any help would be appreciated. Needs to fit in place of one of the current switches without disturbing whatever else is near to it inside the case. I am using the momentary toggle at present (the stock SH switch) but it is less than ideal for a number of reasons, it gets "hammered" and is wearing out.
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Old Yesterday, 06:57 AM
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One idea that might be useful.

When I converted my EVO12 to FrSky I added a short length of Silicone Rubber tube (insulation cut off some battery wire) as a "collar" around the mounting thread before I fitted it. This was a small switch to fit in an existing switch mounting hole and used for binding. The outside diameter of the rubber was a snug fit in the hole and it protruded just enough that when compressed the switch made contact.

The Silicone Rubber means you have to push fairly hard to trip the switch. It's easy enough to do deliberately but won't happen by accident.

It's the one on the left in the picture, the other one is a bicolor LED used to indicate binding and range check mode.

John
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Old Yesterday, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitfoxdrvr View Post
I fly mostly powered sailplanes and need to use the left stick for wing control instead of throttle. I am used to a MPX Royal Evo and have used the button on the left side above the grips to control throttle. Yes, all or none is normal, no proportional control needed. SF is a possible alternate, but I would rather use a button, even if it is in the same location. And it needs to be momentary at the very least.

I like the recessed (sort of) nature of the Evo button, and can see reaching it at the SF position if an easy replacement exists. I have read through the earlier discussions about adding a button, but those were more for a less problematic purpose than a throttle control for a 4kW motor. A toggle or exposed button may not be a good idea for this! Anyone know of a button I could replace SF with that is fairly firm and low profile, like the Evo button?
I use switch E as an arming/safety switch for the motor and have a voice command "Motor Armed"/"Motor Safe" on the switch, as well as a momentary switch F for the motor. As long as the motor isn't armed, you should be pretty safe. I've had no problems with the stock momentary switch that I installed.

I haven't done this, but I suppose you can make the "Motor Armed" command repeat frequently to remind you of the switch state. Do remember that, in the wrong hands, a TX can do bad things, regardless of safeguards.

And 4kW!!! Just what are you flying? An arc welder? ;-)
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Old Yesterday, 09:06 AM
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You could also put throttle on the left slider and use "my throttle safety".
I have been using it for a while and it works as I want it to.
I can post it if you want....

It works with the momentary switch to arm the motor and then tells you the motor is armed.
You need to have throttle on idle, otherwise it doesn't engage.
If you use throttle when it is not engaged, it will tell you that throttle safety is on.

You can go back to throttle safety by having both sticks inward (aileron / rudder) when throttle is idle.
You could use that on all your planes and you will get used to it.


Edit:

I have stripped almost everything that might be confusing and distracting from this setup. It is therefore not a tested model!!
Do not just copy this eepe, but use it to examine the throttle safety.

Holding it more than 1 second sets it to FM1 (launch mode) and resets the timer.
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Old Yesterday, 03:22 PM
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Traveling this weekend, so I will have to look at this later, but that would certainly work. Thank you VERY much!

And yes, they can be arc welders! F5B and F5F. About as fun as you can get without burning kerosene!
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Old Yesterday, 09:19 PM
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A humble idea for a hardware hack: Wireless power charging for the 2000 mAh transmitter battery while it's in the Taranis.

My mobile phone has a wireless power charging circuit add-on that's inexpensive and looks really simple. It got me thinking that the transmitter battery seems to charge with a slow trickle charge and perhaps the same charger and circuit could be adapted to the Taranis so that the transmitter can simply be set on the charger pad and then charges up automatically.
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Old Today, 12:27 AM
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Interesting, wireless charging. The Taranis charger is a smart charger the charges at around 400Ma/.4A I think MikeB posted awhile back. It's input uses a bridge rectifier to eliminate the polarity issue of s DC input of 12v. This also could mean that it can handle an AC input as well. If that's the case, all that's needed is a custom case attachment that has a coil in it to allow an induced AC voltage from a coil in the mat the TX is set on. Probably the case bottom, not back?
To be honest, it's not that big of s bother to plug the power supply into the charge jack now. Interesting idea however.
SM
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Old Today, 01:31 AM
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Already has been done:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2385924

Fred
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Old Today, 08:28 AM
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i would probably use one of these internally on the back
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141520716621
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321646893179
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251337362883

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