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Old Jul 07, 2011, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
[/URL] Thanks, Jim... very helpful. I have two bricked #3's... one still works as a flash drive, but the other is totally dead, so it would be a good surgery candidate!
Yes. Tom, i think if you were very patient and had a very sharp tiny blade for a jewlers screwdriver you might be able to get the cover pried open from the 4 tabs at the corners .. but it will likely bend that thin sheet metal and be hard to get on again properly.. good Luck tho..

btw some had asked me about the USB Microscope .. I lied.. it's $30 bucks.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digimic...croscope-11743

only Issue i have with it is it's image is backwards on the AMCap preview monitor on mine.. so its hard to re-position (on your No 11 of course) to the right when you need to move it left to get it there.
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 01:18 AM
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;18693826.. I sure wish the #11 would morph into being able to shoot video as good! [Quote]

Nice Flight.. my compliments to the videographer on the ground.. that's neat!
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tom,
I sacrificed a couple old / broke No 3's to get at the latch assy inside.. It will clearly be a challenge getting inside the case of the reader to work on the latch itself.. yes there is a real spring inside that could easily be removed.. problem is if you google microSD latch and select images you'll see there are dozens of different manufacturers so what you see here in these No 3's may not be what's in the No 11's now.

by the way there is a little u shaped piece shown that came out of one of them but I couldn't find it in the other.. desoldering it with the right tools is possible but getting the right desoldering tool likely is as costly as a new cam.. Good Luck Hope this helped.. BTW this was shot with a $32 USB microscope cam from Deal Extreme
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5EF9...=youtube_gdata
I made my own micro soldering iron by wrapping a needle with copper "paper" for heat transfer. must have tweezers and good lighting too. no other way .
Also , you really want wearable (on head) magnifying glass , because you can see whatever you want with no hassles while working.
and ofc I can make tools with my dremel and a nail
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 02:53 AM
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Playback for your #11

If you are looking for field playback this could be appealing

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/r7-4-7-...hite-4gb-47605
It handles MOV which is of course needed for our #11.
It also has video out (many do not) which would be handy when we want to bore our friends sh....ss with our AVs.

Anyone heard pros/cons on this little doowacky?

Kev
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 02:58 AM
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Thank you guys for the fw2.
Here is a result of using a wide lens from DE.

Check out the feet of the dog while inverted :-)

Condor Magic EVO4 Flying DOG Bitburg (3 min 4 sec)
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mucwendel View Post
Thank you guys for the fw2.
Here is a result of using a wide lens from DE.

Check out the feet of the dog while inverted :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWUArWZ5GIo
Nice video!
What aircraft is that?

Kev
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 06:22 AM
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That's a Condor Magic EVO4.

Here is one of the build posts.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...934800&page=28
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
....
I was planning to open the card holder cover... i think possible by de-soldering a tab or two and prying it open. I've got a dead No. 3 I can experiment on first if I decide to do it... maybe can even desolder the whole card holder and replace it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Yes. Tom, i think if you were very patient and had a very sharp tiny blade for a jewlers screwdriver you might be able to get the cover pried open from the 4 tabs at the corners .. but it will likely bend that thin sheet metal and be hard to get on again properly.. good Luck tho..
I've removed the card cover about 7 or 8 times on various #3s and actually find it quite easy; well certainly much easier than removing a capacitor/resistor/diode or the memory chip. You don't need any special tools except a fairly fine-tipped soldering iron and a jewelers' screwdriver to pry the tags up from the board. Initially I used a +30 year-old Weller soldering iron and it worked perfectly. It's just important not to inadvertently heat any surrounding components, or they may drop off or lose contact with the board. I never managed to bend the casing either .

For the last couple of removals I used Chip Quik and solder braid. I have completely fallen in love with that stuff! However, since the pads are quite large, there is not much danger of "lifting" them if you are careful and don't apply heat too long, so Chip Quik is not really necessary.

However, the most difficult part is the latch "spring", or better said "wire". It is absolutely tiny, and I remember with the first case I opened that I didn't even see it. It dropped onto the floor without me noticing it. I realized that something was "missing" and opened up a second #3, where I saw what I had lost.

After a lot of looking and with the use of a magnet, I found the first "wire" on the floor.

The moral of this story is that you should have a very tidy, clean and flat work area with good lighting.

Unless you have very good eyesight, you'll need a magnifying glass to properly position this "wire" into the latch mechanism.

My #11 SD card slot is exactly the same as my #3 card slot, but that doesn't mean that there may be different models, as Jim has pointed out.

I have always "repaired" the slot by removing the casing, I have never replaced the whole unit, so I can't say how difficult that would be. However, I would not attempt that without using Chip Quik - the risk of "lifting" pads because of the high heat is too high.
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Do I understand you correctly?
The camera is fully charged and not connected to the PC?
- When the firmware file is in the root directory, then the camera works?
- When you delete the firmware file, then the camera does not work?

If this is the case, then it doesn't sound too good - but there may still be hope

If this is the case, maybe you could try the original V1 timestamp firmware.
V1 firmware is only partially compatible once you have installed V2 firmware and that is why Tom has removed it from his firmware links. I have sent you a PM with a link to the original V1 firmware.

Do all testing without connecting the camera to your PC.
I suggest you try this V1 firmware and see if the camera works once you delete the firmware file from the root directory.
For the moment, I would not connect the camera to your PC. Use a card reader to copy/delete the files. Also, format the card before use and maybe try another card - and always make sure that the camera is fully charged!

[Edit] When you turn on the disconnected camera, with the firmware file in the root directory, how long does it take until the yellow light stays on? It should take between 7 seconds and 15 seconds.
Hi, Isoprop, thanks for you reply!

Just checked one more time:
Camera fully charged and not connected to the PC. I copy firmware to the root of card, over card reader. Press POWER button, within 8 sec Yellow LED light on and remaining on. After about 30 sec I long-press POWER button and camera turned off. I take away card and delete firmware file using card reader. Further inserted card back and press POWER button, nothing happened. No reaction on buttons. Try to turn on without card or with different card, but nothing working. For formatting memory cards I used SDFormatter utility.

I also tried to upgrade to firmware V1, but after press POWER button it even not flashing at all.
Any suggestion on how possible to fix it? Or only way to return it back to seller?
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I've removed the card cover about 7 or 8 times on various #3s and actually find it quite easy...
ISO you are amazing.. by the way, I'm still curious about the little u shaped bar i found on the desktop just after popping the spring .. was that from inside the socket some where? I hope not.. Thanks for all the tips on how you could try to repair one of these.. JimS
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwazimoda View Post
Hi, Isoprop, thanks for you reply!

Just checked one more time:
Camera fully charged and not connected to the PC. I copy firmware to the root of card, over card reader. Press POWER button, within 8 sec Yellow LED light on and remaining on. After about 30 sec I long-press POWER button and camera turned off. I take away card and delete firmware file using card reader. Further inserted card back and press POWER button, nothing happened. No reaction on buttons. Try to turn on without card or with different card, but nothing working. For formatting memory cards I used SDFormatter utility.

I also tried to upgrade to firmware V1, but after press POWER button it even not flashing at all.
Any suggestion on how possible to fix it? Or only way to return it back to seller?
I wouldn't give up yet. If any firmware is installed correctly, the yellow light should turn on after you press the power button.

Make sure the card is empty, now SLOWLY try Tom's method here.

If that doesn't work, do all further testing without connecting the USB. There may be a difference when the battery is fully charged or only partially charged. Every now and again try and turn on the camera. Try this every hour or so. Also press the buttons for a minute or two together. Long-press the power button, etc. etc. I don't think it is good to press the buttons in quick succession though.

If you do this for more than about two days (a few attempts each day) and the camera still doesn't turn on, then I think you should contact your supplier and arrange for a replacement. But it may magically suddenly come back to life! Both of my cameras appeared bricked at first, but then came back to life and have worked perfectly ever since.

Also, try and put back a different V2 firmware, but use your card reader to do this.

I suggest you do all testing (except Tom's method) with the USB unplugged.

There may also be a "hidden" power-off timeout of approx. 2 minutes after the last key-press. This is just an assumption, though.
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
ISO you are amazing.. by the way, I'm still curious about the little u shaped bar i found on the desktop just after popping the spring .. was that from inside the socket some where? I hope not.. Thanks for all the tips on how you could try to repair one of these.. JimS
Yes, I guess I should have called that tiny piece of wire (or is it a "spring" or a "bar"?) u-shaped - but it's a very, very elongated u-wire.

So you also found the u-wire? Now where did that come from?

And, BTW it must be put back in the correct position, otherwise it won't latch.

Maybe while Tom's at it he should solder in the card - then it'll never spring out again! Another mod? No more movable parts (back to the pre #3 days) - except for the two buttons... and those are a bit more difficult to remove...

Mod wouldn't work for me, I swap cards all the time.

<EDIT> BTW, good movie. I know how difficult it is to take movies of these tiny components.
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Last edited by Isoprop; Jul 07, 2011 at 10:17 AM.
Old Jul 07, 2011, 12:04 PM
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Alternate Focus Method

FYI. One way to arrive at best focus that is quantifiable is to use still photos and compare the jpg output file sizes. The largest .jpg file size will be best focus.

How it works. Set your camera up pointing to a typical complex scene. Take a picture, record the lens position. After all photos are shot, write the .jpg file sizes next to the still images. Put the lens position corresponding to the largest .jpg file.

Why this works. The jpg compression tries to group pixels together for higher compression, the more detail you have, the less compression is possible. Consequently, the bigger file is the best focus.

-- ggunners
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 12:28 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I've removed the card cover about 7 or 8 times on various #3s and actually find it quite easy; well certainly much easier than removing a capacitor/resistor/diode or the memory chip. You don't need any special tools except a fairly fine-tipped soldering iron and a jewelers' screwdriver to pry the tags up from the board.
...
Thanks for tips Isoprop.... I KNEW I could do it!
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I wouldn't give up yet. If any firmware is installed correctly, the yellow light should turn on after you press the power button.

Make sure the card is empty, now SLOWLY try Tom's method here.

If that doesn't work, do all further testing without connecting the USB. There may be a difference when the battery is fully charged or only partially charged. Every now and again try and turn on the camera. Try this every hour or so. Also press the buttons for a minute or two together. Long-press the power button, etc. etc. I don't think it is good to press the buttons in quick succession though.

If you do this for more than about two days (a few attempts each day) and the camera still doesn't turn on, then I think you should contact your supplier and arrange for a replacement. But it may magically suddenly come back to life! Both of my cameras appeared bricked at first, but then came back to life and have worked perfectly ever since.

Also, try and put back a different V2 firmware, but use your card reader to do this.

I suggest you do all testing (except Tom's method) with the USB unplugged.

There may also be a "hidden" power-off timeout of approx. 2 minutes after the last key-press. This is just an assumption, though.
Thanks for no give up
So which steps I should repeat for 2 days? Attempts just to turn on the camera, or the full cycle?
Copy firmware file to card -> turn on-> wait for flashing complete -> turn off -> delete firmware file over card reader -> insert card -> turn on ???
Thanks.
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