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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:38 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Build Log
Custom frame designed for NanoWii

This will not be my first frame that I build but this is the first build where I remembered to take pictures of all the steps .

My goal is to build a frame especially for the NanoWii.


First thing to do.... spent a fair amount of money at different stores all over the globe.
The NanoWii and Carbon reinforced 9" props at Flyduino.net, Germany.
Alu square rod (10x10mm) at an ebay store also located in Germany.
In the Netherlands I bought 2 sheets of epoxy, 1 sheet of 1,5mm thick and 1 sheet of 0,3mm.
Also in the Netherlands I bought a double sided epoxy print for the power harness.
The rest of the parts are ordered at Hobbyking but it may take awhile for them to arrive. More on that when I get the parts.

With powerdraw I sketched the drawings for the frame plates.
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To make the frame look like the NanoWii, I used the same curve for the outline.
The powerdraw sketch was printed on an adhesive paper wich I sticked on the 1.5mm epoxy plate.
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After that I started cutting............Some more cutting......................Some sanding.....
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Some more sanding, cleaning and drilling and the first plate is finished
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Took me about 2 1/2 hours from slapping on the sticker till the final product.

That's it for now, tomorrow i'll post the bottom plate and the frame arms.
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Last edited by Sandav; Nov 14, 2012 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 06:41 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
So, just finished another part of the nano-frame, the bottom part. It's not only a frame part but also the power distribution board. The bottom part is cut out of a double sided epoxy print.

First, stick on the drawing and start cutting.
I just used a little hacksaw to saw the larger parts.
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After that it's a matter of power sanding... and filing......... and drilling...........
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Untill you end up with this
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:33 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Because the bottom frame plate is used as a power distribution board, I need some kind of insulation between the board and the frame or else it will light up as a christmass tree (at least for a second or two ) when I connect the battery.
On earlier frames, I covered one side of the double sided epoxy print with another layer of epoxy but that added too much weight to the frame. For this frame, I wanted something more subtle. So now I just cover the area where the frame tube touches the bottom plate.

First off, cut some strips of the 0,3mm epoxy.
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And glue them to the frame plate.
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After cleaning up and sanding, this is the result.
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I think next time I use some double sided tape to hold the isolation in place. saves a lot of time and some cleaning up.

Next are the arms, probably the easiest parts because I made up a drilling jig for the holes on both sides.
The only thing to do is determine how long they have to be.
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Left side is the frame side, right side is the motor side.

To determine how lang the arms had to be, I laid down four arms on the top frame and placed two props on top of the arms.
I slided them just far enough outwards until there was about 2cm between the tips of the props.
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In my next post I'll put it all together
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Mortimer's Avatar
Joined Apr 2010
1,399 Posts
Nice work.
Giving your blood to achieve your goal is a sign of courage.

What is motor to motor distance ?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 11:48 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortimer View Post
Nice work.
Giving your blood to achieve your goal is a sign of courage.

What is motor to motor distance ?
Ha ha, it sure didn't feel like that and the words at that moment weren't that courageous too

motor2motor is 39cm, could be less but I kept 2-2,5cm between the 9" prop tips.

Good news, three hong-kong packages are waiting for me at the post office. Gonna pick 'em up tomorrow after work. I will post pictures if I can find the time.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 01:11 PM
Emress
sirbow2's Avatar
United States, SD, Rapid City
Joined Nov 2011
1,936 Posts
sandwich, or just plate on the top?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 01:59 PM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirbow2 View Post
sandwich, or just plate on the top?
It's a sandwich with the power board at the bottom.
More pictures tomorrow so stay tuned
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:41 PM
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malcr001's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Gt Lon
Joined Nov 2007
2,646 Posts
On another note, you can bend your thumb back freakishly far!
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:17 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Here's another update. Time to paint and put it all together.
It's gonna be all matt black. That's not only the same color as the NanoWii pcb but it also helps flying in direct sunlight, no flashing sunlight bouncing of the frame.

First I need to mask the parts of the power board where eventually, the esc will be connected.
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After that it's straight forward.....
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Soldering on the LiPo connector
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and putting it all together..
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That's it for now. I'm out of material , but there are three packages from Hobbyking waiting for me at the post office .
Motors, esc's, shrink wrap, usb programmer for my SiLab based esc's (for this build I use F-20A's).
The only things that are in the mail are headers for the NanoWii and flatcables for connecting the rx to the NanoWii.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:58 AM
Woof!
Denmark, Region Zealand, Roskilde
Joined Oct 2012
14 Posts
Very nice, so far. Keep up the good work and thanks for posting.

It's quite inspirational for a rookie like myself.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 03:12 AM
Flight cadet
The Netherlands, OV, Enschede
Joined Jul 2012
300 Posts
man!, you are a true artist
Keep the posts coming, it reads like a thriller (with blood)
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:17 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
I picked up my packages yesterday and I love packages that say, Origin Hong Kong
The most important content are the motors. They are well packed with a prop mount for both sides. The shaft-side will not be used. Not only that, the shaft itself is too long so time to fire up the dremel (is the dremel even known outside the Netherlands?)
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First I taped it up untill there were no holes left where the iron dust can reach the magnets.
One down.............................................. .................................Three to go.
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I know I have to dismantle it all again but I have to see how it looks
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As you can see, the prop distance is not 2-2,5cm as said before.

Next thing to do is Simonize the esc's. I used to solder on all the wires to load the new firmware. This took me about 2 hours for 5 esc's (4 to fly, 1 spare). With the flashing tool I bought at Hobbyking it's a breese. Took me longer to get the shrink wrap off than uploading the SimonK firmware.
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That's it for now. Next things to do.
  • Shorten wires from esc to rx
  • Cut slots for the velcro to attach the Lipo
  • Change the weak screws that hold the prop mount for proper M2,5 screws (weak point of the SK3 serie)
  • Wait for the ebay orders (flatcable, headers)

I hope there is something to show tomorrow so stay tuned
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 05:40 AM
vAMPire
Germany
Joined Aug 2010
132 Posts
Very nice build so far!
Nice to see some well constructed and clean builds in times were it seems that just everyone only want to buy&fly.

On my scratchbuilds I always use prop clearences of about a centimeter, I dont think that more would improve flight characteristics and less means more compact, more rigidity and less weight.

Is the copper around the holes removed? If not, isnīt there the possibility that both sides could have contact via the bolts?

Regards
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 09:22 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henni View Post
Very nice build so far!
Nice to see some well constructed and clean builds in times were it seems that just everyone only want to buy&fly.

On my scratchbuilds I always use prop clearences of about a centimeter, I dont think that more would improve flight characteristics and less means more compact, more rigidity and less weight.

Is the copper around the holes removed? If not, isnīt there the possibility that both sides could have contact via the bolts?

Regards
I build better then I can fly so building is for me a big part of the fun.
This is my first year of flying, I started in february, and this is my fifth frame.

The holes are deburred. That took enough material away to prevent shorting out the two sides.
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Last edited by Sandav; Nov 16, 2012 at 11:50 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 07:29 AM
Time to learn to fly
Sandav's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Zwolle
Joined Feb 2012
215 Posts
Just a small update but a big step towards the end of the build. Slots for the velcro and esc wires shortened.

Velcro slots are pretty straight forward. I laid down a battery pack on the bottom plate and drew a line next to it. I drilled one 3mm hole and took the rest out with the dremel. The result looks like this.
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The esc's are a bit more work. Cutting the wires, splitting the three wires into single wires for ease of desoldering. Measuring the wires and solder them on again. And then finally shrink wrap them back into a black jacket.
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After that it's time to put it all back together. Starting out with soldering all the esc's to the bottom plate.
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After that it's a matter of putting all the screws back in and fasten them.
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And than the great wait starts, I just received an update of one of my ebay purchases. Instead of a delivery notice. it was a "I just put your package in the mail" notice
It could have been in Holland allready if they did that the day they got paid.
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