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Old Nov 04, 2012, 10:40 AM
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TBowman's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2012
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Great progress Andrew!

Wish I was moving as fast as you. : (

keep up the great work and posts.
Tim
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 10:40 AM
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thanks Gary i will check into that it sounds fun
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:36 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
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Question. The instructions say to just glue on the head rails. It that what everyone did, or should I try to use pins as well?
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 07:50 AM
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DanL's Avatar
United States, MN, Brainerd
Joined Oct 2004
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PIN everything possible if you plan to sail her.
I used brass rod, sewing pins (small head, cut to length needed), small brads, even screws in some places.
The other approach on parts where pinning may not work is to drill many small, shallow holes on both contact surfaces and use epoxy/JB Weld.
The drilled surface should look like the surfae of the moon - a lot of "craters" to create mechanical bonding area with the epoxy.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 11:09 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
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Thanks Dan. That's what I've been doing so far. Sooo glad to have that info before I just glued everything on (which is what I would have done).

Next question. I'm not a fan of the raked mast look. Is there any real advantage to having it that way as opposed to perfectly straight?
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 12:47 PM
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United States, MN, Brainerd
Joined Oct 2004
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Hmmmm...I think the raked mast, on a finished boat, looks great.
On a full sized vessel, I think the raked mast is critical to sailing efficiency, and to a geometry needed to withstand the wind forces on the sails. Maybe other reasons too.
On the functioning model, maybe the same reasons are also valid
If you don't rake the masts, you are going to effect the alignment of the shrouds with the chain rails. Perhaps also negatively effect the alignment and function of the stays.
Should be OK straight up, but some planning and rigging adjustments might be needed.
Interested to hear other input....
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 01:36 PM
Paratrooper
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Eubank Kentucky
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpop Andrew View Post
Question. The instructions say to just glue on the head rails. It that what everyone did, or should I try to use pins as well?
I agree with Dan--I did not pin the rails when I first went to the water and the flaws began to show up immediately. Even then it took a couple of lost parts to teach me.

PIN EVERYTHING.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:31 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
257 Posts
Week 11: Stems and Shins

Nessie and Tessie. Since every mermaid needs a water guardian, I dressed up the ship's stemhead to look like an appropriate companion to "Tessie". The eye base was crafted from caramel apple sticks and the eyeball from a brass nail sunk into the stemhead to keep it secure. (I'm following Dan and Ray's experience-based advice: anything not pegged down WILL come off.)

Not sure about the color yet. I love the shades of wood color that the mermaid has (darker than the pictures show) so I'm trying to avoid painting her. Nessie's color scheme will need to somehow compliment or at least not distract from that look. A work in progress.

Gammoning slot, hawseholes, head rails. To get a better idea of what the figurehead will look like on the finished ship I started on the other details of the stem. First I drilled a half dozen holes and then filed them out to make the gammoning slot for tying down the future bowsprit.

Not being a fan of drilling large holes into my bow, I made a pair of custom blocks so I could simulate the hawseholes for the anchor ropes to stick through. I drilled a tiny hole above the opening for the anchor rope so I can insert a pin later for securing them in place.

Next I secured the plastic head rail pieces in place with small screws and epoxy. Curiously enough three of the four plastic pieces were black while one was mysteriously brown. Only Philip knows why...

Shin apocalypse. The 17% (or is it 20%?) too large scaling issue of having 1:20 scale figures on a 1:24 scale ship finally required action. Drastic action. Horrible, ghastly, unthinkable action that more appropriately should have been done on Halloween.

The two Papo figures that I deemed just too large to join the Theresa Maries, Lord Nelson and a French soldier, became the guinea pigs. Bloody hell. Feet cut off at the ankles. Shins cut off at the knee. Pegged and glued back together, minus the shins. Much to my surprise, it didn't look half bad. So the taller of the Theresa Maries underwent the "procedure". It gives a somewhat Hobbit look to a few of the crew, but that's much better than having seven foot giants towering over the guns and bulwarks.

(Btw you can buy 11 scale figures from SC&H for around $200, which you can see in other build logs. Since so many builders have gone down that route before I decided to try something different for the Theresa Marie. She may not be "museum quality" but she'll hopefully be a fun ship for the kids to gawk at.)

New recruits. Having already converted all the likely Papo figures available, I picked out seven more prospects from the Schleich brand of 1:20 figures from Happy Hen Toys. After going through their "procedure" (I'm starting to feel like a Civil War surgeon) the Theresa Marie muster list achieved a ready-to-sail 34 passengers and crew: Captain, 3 officers, 1 midshipman, 2 dignitaries with 1 attendant, 1 surgeon, 1 blacksmith and 24 seamen.

So we should be good-to-go for a colorful crew (unless I find a dozen or so Polynesian natives to have swarm the deck Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to secure everyone to the ship. I'm not liking the idea of dozens of brass rods in the deck, so I'll probably position most of the crew holding onto something as if they were in rough seas. Most of them already have holes in their hands for holding weapons or tools.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:30 AM
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United States, CA, Sanger
Joined Apr 2004
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Very nice.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 09:03 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
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Week 12: Bowsprit, plans, 1st Naming

Bowsprit prep. For some reason it was a wee bit sad to take my Dremel and rattail file to the pristine bow to cut the groove for the bowsprit to rest in. After making piles of fiberglass dust, the deed was done. Adding the bowsprit will increase the length of the model by another 9 inches, but may help protect my figurehead(s) from damage in the shipyard. Now I just have to make sure my foster dogs don't cause some mayhem (aka "the dog ate my bowsprit!").

The instructions have you mount the bowsprit so it can be taken off for transport (or "decommissioned" in their words). So I need to decide whether to go that route or mount it more permanently.

Next I assembled the bowsprit bits and rest. For now I just temporarily positioned the bowsprit in place, but oh what a happy thing to see.

Forecastle plans. I'm leaning toward making an extended forecastle deck with two manned bow chasers oriented forward: the Theresa Marie's fangs. It will certainly make her look distinctive, especially with six or more figures manning the guns. I'm picturing the Theresa Maries and guns being in "pursuit in high seas" action stations.

So knightheads, catheads, anchors, fore course... all those details will need to be positioned around the bow chasers and figures. I'm also leaning toward making the forecastle railing thinner than the 1/2 inch bulwarks to allow a little more deck space.

First Honorary Naming. Meanwhile, 1925 miles away from my shipyard another person started building their own SC&H Brig kit at the same time I did: Tim Bowman. The Theresa Marie is hull #032 while his is #033. Tim is one awesome builder who uses a 3D graphics program and can custom produce plastic pieces.

After seeing the absolutely gorgeous cannons he's making for his HMS Scorpion (which will be firing real black powder cannons!) it was clear we had to name one of our ship's figures after our fellow builder: Tim "Panzerfaust " Bowman, Master Gunner of the Theresa Marie.

(And yes of course there will be a Lieutenant Dan and namesake for everyone here who has provided helpful advice. Just have to decide which will be which.)
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 11:40 AM
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United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Mar 2012
166 Posts
nice progress. your moving at warp speed.

Gary
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:40 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
257 Posts
Thanks Gary. As far as the bowsprit goes, its probably a good idea to make it removable.

Question. Do the positions of the knightheads and timber heads matter at all with this model, other than appearance? I'm not a big fan of the spiderweb look of dozens of crisscrossing rope lines so I'll probably stick to just the functional rigging and a modest amount of non-functioning rigging.

Also, is there a reason why none of the SC&H builders have added swivel guns? Are they just too at risk of breaking off, or did they just seem superfluous with all the cannons already run out?
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Last edited by Jpop Andrew; Nov 21, 2012 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 01:30 AM
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United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Mar 2012
166 Posts
I think you will someday thank yourself for making that removable. now for the question about the knighthead and timber heads. I can only share close up photos of Surprise. I never built a sc&h model. we will have to wait and see if the other guys can give you a thoughtful answer. I had to search the internet to figure it out what you asked. I can tell you if I got this correct on what the parts are that on Surprise they seem to only offer to the looks of the ship and maybe just help to make the bowsprint a bit stable but other than that I would think its your choice in getting the look that your wanting.

Gary
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:14 AM
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United States, MN, Brainerd
Joined Oct 2004
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I think the only rigging required is what is shown in the instructions - very basic standing rigging and the operational braces. The shrouds are needed, but the ratlines aren't necessary.
I never thought about swivel guns when first building, but an interesting feature.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 07:50 PM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
257 Posts
Next question. Anyone have another source for where I can get some 1 1/2 inch cannons to make my swivel guns from? Model Expo has some 38mm ones that should be about right for 3 bucks each.
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