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Old Jul 16, 2015, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666yeti666 View Post
ok, thanks , good to hear. Yes, I 've read that you've had really, really a lot of flights on it !
Is there any kind of specific wear of some part(s) ? Any attention to certain things ?

I have also seen that some kits include the new Halo blades, maybe I should wait a while to see how they hold up...

thanks !

Sebastien
You can still get the RotorTech blades that work very well. It's just a stocking problem when you need them. So I always end up buying a few sets at a time. The Rail 106mm blades have been running pretty good on my X7. However, since you directed me to that thread. I have to say, it kind of pissed me off. Because I have been using the Rail tail blades, and so did the person who posted the hub failure. I always noticed a slight vibe and resonance with the Rail blades. But I had been flying them like that thinking it shouldn't be any big deal... Those broken rotor hubs now have me worried and I will probably switch back to RotorTechs again.

I've been told that the Halo and Spin tail blades work good too. However I haven't tried them myself. Not only am I tired of spending money on tail blades that are completely unusable. But I was told that Rail blades worked great too, and that kind of turned out to be possibly inaccurate if the resonance can cause a hub failure. I noticed in that thread that someone said that Duncan Bossion recommends EDGE SE, RotorTech, Halo, or Spin. But no mention of Rail.


As far as wear and tear issues and things like that on the X7. It depends on how you fly. I mean I smack my helicopter around pretty aggressively so things might wear faster than for people who don't. But here is my maintenance schedule, roughly..

oil the motor bearings every 5-10 flights or as often as you can remember. Clean/lube tail rotor shaft, main shaft or any other moving parts that may need it.

Every 100 flights:
Check linkages for wear, replace if necessary (usually not, but check em anyway).

Check front torque tube gear support bearing. Oil or replace if needed. (micro bearing wears out quickly)

Replace the 3 bolts that fasten the balls to the cyclic servo horns. I have had the bolt/ball fail from fatigue at least twice in the past (probably fatigue from hard ele. tic tocs).

If using the old original FBL rotor head (not the Formula rotor) and using the upgrade CNC swash driver forks. They may need replaced from wear every 100-200 flights. The more worn they are, the less precise your rotor will be. Formula rotor head is more precise and less maintenance.

Check that the main blade grip arms are fastened securely! The grip arms are fastened to the grips with a single 4mm bolt with a special sized head. Make sure this bolt isn't loose and use red thread lock on it always. Along with checking the bolt isn't loose on the grip arms. The CNC grip arms their self do get worn out. The aluminum wears away and eventually the bolt cannot tighten them down as good as when they were new. This is because the bolt isn't threaded the whole way to the bolt head and it hits the hole in the grip and stops. But the head isn't clamping the grip arm tightly enough anymore to prevent the arm from slopping around a bit. If you can move the grip arms even a little bit by hand and you know the bolt is tight. Then either the grip arms need to be replaced ($20 for both) or else a washer or something needs to be put under the bolt head so it can take up the space from the worn out aluminum on the grip arm. But I haven't found any that fit that bolt yet. The head is much smaller than the average 4mm bolt head. These grip arms may not need to be replaced every 100 flights. But I would check them when you check everything else. Honestly, just because they are right on top. I'd check them before any flight too. People have reported finding the grip arm bolt coming loose on it's own (which is why i said to use red thread lock). I personally believe the self loosening is a result of the arm being worn out and able to ratchet because of the slop. The arm slopping probably starts to loosen the bolt. But this is just speculation on my part.



Every 200 flights:

Remove motor heat sinks, and pull motor mounting plate/motor out. Inspect pinion, pinion support bearing and clean any plastic dust or mess that may have accumulated inside the CNC pinion housing. Ensure that the motor pinion is still in the proper spot on the shaft length wise. It tends to want to migrate down the motor shaft if it can. Make sure that the motor shaft hasn't worn excessively where it makes contact with the pinion support bearing. You might want to check this stuff earlier than 200 flights on your first build just to make sure nothing is wearing to quickly, especially the motor shaft.

Replace the main gear (whether it needs it or not, it's only $10).

Grease the one way bearing if needed.

Replace the aluminum tail boom (whether it needs it or not, it's only about $7). I tend to fatigue my booms from doing elevator tic tocs. I have had them fail on me twice now right at the frame clamp exiting the frame. This is partially because I use a pin screw through the boom right there. But I know my tic tocing doesn't help. Calmer flying styles can probably go longer than 200 flights. I have my suspicions that the new formula CF tail boom covers might add more support to the aluminum boom than the old support rods did. But I'm not sure so I will continue to spend the $7 every 200 flights to replace the boom. Not worth finding out the hard way that nothing has changed.

Open up tail box and remove tail rotor bearings. Using a needle I remove the rubber seals and repack the bearings with grease using a syringe style applicator.


Every ~500 flights:

Break down the helicopter, clean, oil, inspect. Replace any bearings that need it and look for any wear in mechanical parts. If I'm being honest, I haven't replaced many bearings. I know some of them are a little rough at this point. But I'm still using the stock main shaft bearings, front and rear TT bearings, tail box bearings and grip bearings. I've replaced the OWB and radial bearings a few times. Mostly from crash damage. FYI, you can pick them up for about $30 from rcbearings.com and save yourself about $60 over buying the whole Gaui hub just to get new bearings. Gaui bearings seem to be pretty good. But I also oil them sometimes. So they probably lasted a bit longer.



Over all the X7 seems to be a fairly low maintenance helicopter to me. My X5 is much less maintenance. But the X7 doesn't seem to have a lot of problems if you have the newest Formula equipment. Like I said, the few things I have mentioned that might warrant some attention from the user are not super serious issues and quite honestly people being more gentle with their helicopter may not see anywhere near the wear and tear I see. But I think this outlines what people can expect the weak points to be so they could keep an eye on them. At the end of the day I think each person will need to find their own maintenance schedule according to their own wear and tear.... but the problem is, you don't know when to expect things to fail until you've had them fail, right? Honestly, I used to wonder why RC heli manufacturers didn't ever have a service list with expected services life of parts and suggested maintenance/replacement schedule. But now I realize that it is way to broad a thing to suggest for everyone in general because of how many different people fly different ways from calm to super smack 3D.


Anyway, I hope this somewhat detailed information gives you some idea of what things you might need to keep an eye on with the X7. Let me know if you ever have any questions. I'd be glad to help if I can.
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Old Jul 20, 2015, 01:35 PM
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Wow, great answer,
I think this covers all my questions and more. thanks a lot for posting !
I didn't know the parts where that cheap.
I still don't know what to think about the hub breakage, but let's wait and see what (if) Gaui will respond ...

Sebastien
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Old Jul 20, 2015, 05:19 PM
IntegrityHndywrk is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666yeti666 View Post
Wow, great answer,
I think this covers all my questions and more. thanks a lot for posting !
I didn't know the parts where that cheap.
I still don't know what to think about the hub breakage, but let's wait and see what (if) Gaui will respond ...

Sebastien
The over all cost of the X7 and the repair cost after a crash is the primary reason I went with it over a Goblin or something. I've seen a lot of goblins eat it hard and need almost a whole replacement kit. The X7's central frames are damn near bullet proof so it's usually just the boom, skids, rotors and blades. I've totally bit the ground at a decent speed doing hurricanes or slammed straight down at full rotor load 2100+ and skated away with little damage, relatively speaking. You can go to my youtube channel and search "X7 crash" and you can see most of my crashes. I've had about 8 or more now, but probably only 5-6 on video.

https://www.youtube.com/user/IntegrityRC/search?query=X7+"crash"+-%2A


I don't think I've ever paid more than $300 for a repair and that is kind of pushing it I think. Nice thing is when you buy stuff, often it's two in a package. So your next crash might seem less expensive, kinda.
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Old Jul 27, 2015, 08:45 PM
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Just cleared 900 flights on my X7.

Gaui X7 - Flight 900 (3 min 25 sec)
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Old Aug 03, 2015, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Just cleared 900 flights on my X7.

https://youtu.be/Bq0roGbz6wo
Congratulations!

Do you keep tracking of replacement parts used?

I am new to X7. I like it. I succeded to get 8 flights before first crash caused by broken plastic servo horn:


I do not blame Gaui. My X7F is second hand and was crashed by previous owner. I do not blame him either. I will put alu horns.

I know a pilot pushing X7 very hard and he is using plastic horns without issues.

I put 180A HV clone ESC on mine ($148):


Check Dunkan Bossion setup:
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...74&postcount=1

Dunkan is using aluminium horns.

Did anyone try to put Align 700 tail hub and tail blade gripps on X7? I wonder if "tail hum" will be present. I will probably try to experiment with them. Just be aware there are two different 700 tail shafts and hubs. Old one 5mm (breaking) and new 6mm.
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Old Aug 03, 2015, 09:01 PM
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I use those same RJX servos you have on your X7. Those actually come with some pretty good aluminum servo horns when you buy them. So it's a little weird someone would use the Gaui plastic horns instead. Those black plastic Gaui servo horns are actually pretty good. I use them on my X5 and X5.7 stretch. But I personally would never use plastic servo horns on a 700 size if I had a choice. If I did, I would probably replace them pretty often. So I'd much rather use aluminum horns and replace servo gears in crashes instead. There are also the Secraft aluminum horns which are supposed to bend in a crash to save your servo horns. But I've never tried them.

If your that worried about the tail that much. I'm pretty sure you could use a Align or any other tail hub as long as it has a 5mm or 6mm inside diameter. But personally I have only used the old original tail shaft that has a 5mm diameter and I've never had a problem with them. In-fact on my X5 stretched to 610mm blades I used the X7 tail box with the 5mm shaft and a X5 tail hub with 95mm blades. I wouldn't doubt if 105's would fit in there and run just fine too, though I've never tried it. But I can tell you, I've only had to replace the tail shaft on mine once due to crash damage. I've never had it fail in flight or anything like that. I don't actually keep a full log of all my parts changes. But I know I've almost never had to open my X7's tail box other than to clean and repack the bearings. This could be because I've only used the RotorTech tail blades the whole time I've flown my X7 up until recently when I couldn't find them in stock and tried Rails instead. I think there is a very large possibility this could be the reason I haven't had any problems. But unless everyone else who has actually had this problem can confirm that they were NOT using Rotortechs when failures occur.I couldn't say for sure, really. There is also a possibility that the tail shafts and hubs that came on my heli kit and the one I replaced it with were from older production batches and maybe the newer batches have some kind of production flaw or something. I really don't know why I haven't had any issues, anyone's guess is as good as mine.
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Old Aug 04, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Thank you. I agree 100%.
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Old Aug 08, 2015, 06:27 AM
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BTW there's a note in the manual about the maximum tail blade length and headspeed.
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 07:59 PM
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Finally I repaired X7F (and X5, which got Formula head and swash):



Which tail gears are stronger? White or black? Spiral bevel or straight?

I had black crown gear which srtipped and replaced with white crown gear.
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utrinque View Post
Finally I repaired X7F (and X5, which got Formula head and swash):


Which tail gears are stronger? White or black? Spiral bevel or straight?

I had black crown gear which srtipped and replaced with white crown gear.
Typically black gears are more impact resistant and most companies go from white gears to stronger black gears when people are stripping them too easily. Like Align on their 450s, for instance. But for some reason Gaui switched from black gears, which they had always used on the X7, to white gears. The white gears are the newer versions.

I have not tried any of the white gears yet but the last time I bought crown gears they were white. I went to HF and posted a asking about why the materials downgrade from black to white plastic. The response I got from a Gaui pilot was that it has something to do production QC or something. Apparently people were having them strip or something, I don't know. I've never had a problem with them. I've only stripped them in crashes myself.


So you stripped the crown gear in flight? How many washers are you using over your main gear to space the mesh for the TT bevel gear? I forget the measurements but I use 2 washers. One fat and one thin. I think the fat one is like 1.2mm thick and the thin one is 0.2mm thick. Since I haven't ever had any problem I have to suspect that people stripping them could be from bad mesh or something. I know I remember asking which washers to use on HF or somewhere back when I was building my X7 and I was told that the one thick washer was good. I think it is also in one of the build logs or something. But because of the inconsistency of molded gears I was finding little tight spots on the crown gear and personally I'd rather have an extra tiny bit of lash than have it too tight on any part around the rotation. Just my thoughts and theory, I could be wrong. Who knows.

Oh, and typically the spiral bevel gears are a bit stronger. But their main purpose is noise reduction. Either way I like them, but am very displeased if they also changed those to white plastic...I just freaking hate seeing white gears that get all dirty, pitted, and pathetic looking in the tail box. In that very nice CNC tail box too of all things.
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Old Aug 26, 2015, 04:04 AM
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Actually I do not know if crown gear stripped in flight or in crash.

I have two thick washers like previous user put. My X7 is second hand. I will check if there is correct mesh again. I did not fly after rapair yet. I wanted to go to fly now.

Thank you for your answer.


Update: I removed one thick washer.

I have found this:
http://www.gaui.com.tw/products/2179...l-instruction/

I put one washer above and one below main gear. Do you use Main Shaft Collar?
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Old Aug 26, 2015, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utrinque View Post
Actually I do not know if crown gear stripped in flight or in crash.

I have two thick washers like previous user put. My X7 is second hand. I will check if there is correct mesh again. I did not fly after rapair yet. I wanted to go to fly now.

Thank you for your answer.


Update: I removed one thick washer.

I have found this:
http://www.gaui.com.tw/products/2179...l-instruction/

I put one washer above and one below main gear. Do you use Main Shaft Collar?

JUST WOW... I actually didn't even know that was something they were doing on the new kits... To me, this alone could explain why some people were supposedly stripping crown gears all of a sudden and they decided to change them to white plastic. Who knows, I can only assume and speculate since this kind of setup is new with the new Formula kits. Because the main shaft locking collar was always included with the X7 as far as I knew. I guess not anymore.

So, yes I do use the main shaft locking collar. Since you posted this link and I could look at the diagram. I am now sure that I use a 1.2mm and a 0.2mm washer above my main gear to adjust mesh. Then I pull up on the main rotor head and tighten down the collar to eliminate play. The collar is a bit of a pain to deal with sometimes if you don't have good tools with solid (unworn) tips and over tightening will sometimes strip the lock nut in the back of the collar. But that seems like less of a pain to deal with than trying to squeeze washers under the main gear to eliminate play and then try to get the main shaft through them all without mutilating them?
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 06:14 PM
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I have found a reason of two X7F crashes:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1546

I lost:
- two pairs of 700mm blades
- two tail booms
- two TTs
- one CF tail support rod
- one tail push rod
- one bent main shaft
- one vertical stabilizer
- one plastic ball link

Fortunately survived:
- Formula canopy
- frame
- servos
- lipos
- landing gear
- head and swash
- tail blades
- and all the rest

Polish dealer did not have CF tail push rod for X7.

I used cheap Assault 700 tail push rod. Lenght is perfect for X7:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...l_Pushrod.html

By the way X7 push rod is heavier because it has full lenght metal rod inside. I doubt it is made of Carbon Fiber. It looks more like some kind of "plastic".

I also used Assault 700 CF vertical fin. It needed some modification to fit X7 but works perfect.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...l_Fin_Set.html
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