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Old Feb 06, 2013, 10:48 PM
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United States, UT, Provo
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my friend's radian pro has a water landing lol
GOPR0083 (0 min 0 sec)
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Myko View Post
It's not really responsive aileron wise and does not like speed. The wings flex too much doing so. I really didn't do my reasurch, just bought it on a whim cause my dad had gotten one. Guess what I'm looking for is a straight wing glider that rolls cleanly. But for putting around the sky I guess it's a nice flyer.

are you afraid of light modding?

1. Re hinge the flaps for full span ailerons - bevel and hinge the flaps just like the ailerons with longer servo arms for all servos
2. Ditch the 3/8 inch (approx 9.6mm) fiberglass spar for a longer and larger diameter 10mm carbon fiber rod - need to ream out center plastic in fuselage and drill the space in the wings that hold the spar deeper, all the way to the aileron servo
3. Change to a graupner 10x8 folding prop - need to drill out hub and add a washer
4. OPTIONAL - clear packing tape on wings, control surfaces and fuselage

For $20-$30 and less than an hour of work you will have exactly what you thought you were going to buy.

NOTE - This is assuming you have at least a 7 channel tx and rx for full sailplane mixing to use full span ailerons and still have flaps, crow camber etc. Flaps/crow etc are not really needed so you could use as little as a 4ch tx/rx if you y-split all the wing servos or have 1 servo per wing.
It might be a good idea to get an external bec or upgrade to a better esc with a higher amp rating if you want to use all 6 servos. OR you could even ditch the aileron or flap servos and permanently attach the flaps and ailerons for just a simple, 2 large, full span ailerons (or flaperon/spoileron/camber/reflex with a 5ch set up). If you just want 1 large ailerons, you will have to use tape on the control surface to stiffen it up

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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:27 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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Originally Posted by rcfisherman View Post
2. Ditch the 3/8 inch (approx 9.6mm) fiberglass spar for a longer and larger diameter 10mm carbon fiber rod - need to ream out center plastic in fuselage and drill the space in the wings that hold the spar deeper, all the way to the aileron servo
Agreed that a CF rod is the way to go with this plane. How did you drill the holes deeper into the wings?
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
Agreed that a CF rod is the way to go with this plane. How did you drill the holes deeper into the wings?
used a regular 3/8" drill bit (less than $1) taped to the end of the original fiberglass spar and a cordless screw driver. I used tape on the fg rod to mark how deep to go and voila! No need for an expensive 3 foot drill bit. Just go slow and the original hole acts as a guide so no complicated jigs and levels needed.

I used a 10mm replacement cf rod as opposed to the 3/8 (9.6mm) and that extra 0.4mm will need to be reamed out from the plastic section in the fuselage that the spar goes thru. I used a 10mm drill bit but that may be tricky/expensive to find so I recommend the great planes metric prop reamer that can be used for ...reaming out prop hubs!

I don't remember exactly but I believe the distance between the ailerons and thus the length of the replacement 10mm cf rod was a very user friendly 1000mm. For whatever reason, the 10mm x 1000mm CF rod was way easier to find than a 3/8" rod
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 05:48 AM
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coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by rcfisherman View Post
I don't remember exactly but I believe the distance between the ailerons and thus the length of the replacement 10mm cf rod was a very user friendly 1000mm. For whatever reason, the 10mm x 1000mm CF rod was way easier to find than a 3/8" rod
RC Foam sells a 9.5mm carbon fiber tube (0.374") which works great in the unmodified spar holes AND is lighter and way stiffer than the stock fiberglass spar
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by muhkaydenz View Post
Nice video
Love the scenery with the snow and all
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 11:24 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
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The replacement CF tube I am using is the same diameter as the stock one, which means it is a very sloppy fit through the plastic fuselage mount. If you wrap some tape around the center section of the tube, it will fit in there without wiggling. That firms up the wings and takes some of the stress away from the 2 mounting screws.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Guys I just got my raidan pro, its my first sail plane after flying scale warbirds for a long time. Overall impression is fantastic, not what I was expecting. A nice relaxing smooth flight and pretty relaxing when compared to what iv been flying. I do have some questions though. I bound it to my DX7 and sent the controls up using the Y harness first for flaps and ailerons to get a feel for it before removing them and start the mixing options. I was surprised how the ailerons worked, not real effective and required a decent amount of rudder to turn which I was used to having flown warbirds. After my flight I noticed that when the aileron servos were centered the horns were not centered at all and in fact were very far forward(toward the leading edge of the wing)from the factory..is this normal on everybody elses???? The elevator, flaps and rudder were dead one. So I'm going to re-center the servo arms to get more throw out of the ailerons and set my rates at about 20% expo at about 80% throw and high rates at 15% expo and leave at 100% throw. Ideas or suggestions??? An awesome relaxing glider and I cant wait for many more flights
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 03:25 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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Originally Posted by ncflyer79 View Post
Guys I just got my raidan pro, its my first sail plane after flying scale warbirds for a long time. Overall impression is fantastic, not what I was expecting. A nice relaxing smooth flight and pretty relaxing when compared to what iv been flying. I do have some questions though. I bound it to my DX7 and sent the controls up using the Y harness first for flaps and ailerons to get a feel for it before removing them and start the mixing options. I was surprised how the ailerons worked, not real effective and required a decent amount of rudder to turn which I was used to having flown warbirds. After my flight I noticed that when the aileron servos were centered the horns were not centered at all and in fact were very far forward(toward the leading edge of the wing)from the factory..is this normal on everybody elses???? The elevator, flaps and rudder were dead one. So I'm going to re-center the servo arms to get more throw out of the ailerons and set my rates at about 20% expo at about 80% throw and high rates at 15% expo and leave at 100% throw. Ideas or suggestions??? An awesome relaxing glider and I cant wait for many more flights
The arms are angled forward to provide some mechanical aileron differential. That means the ailerons move more up than down, and that helps to correct for adverse yaw. This can be done by radio programming alone, but if it is set up mechanically, no fancy programming is needed.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
The arms are angled forward to provide some mechanical aileron differential. That means the ailerons move more up than down, and that helps to correct for adverse yaw. This can be done by radio programming alone, but if it is set up mechanically, no fancy programming is needed.
Well what's the best way to get more aileron throw out of this glider
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 04:04 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by ncflyer79 View Post
Well what's the best way to get more aileron throw out of this glider
You can increase the size of the ailerons by stealing some from the flaps or by extending the ailerons out to the tip of the wing. You could also increase the throws by using the outer holes in the arms and the inner holes in the horns, but you would have to keep the differential in mind while doing this.

You could also program your radio to have the flaps following the ailerons, but still be able to function as flaps. Putting in a stiffer CF wing tube makes the wings stiffer and makes the ailerons more effective. There is no way it will ever roll as well as a warbird, nor should it.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ncflyer79 View Post
Well what's the best way to get more aileron throw out of this glider
If you feel the ailerons are not very responsive, why do you have expo set or a low rate at 85%? Turn it off.

If you feel the ailerons need more throw, put your high rates 120% and see if the aileron arms will move that much without binding.

Then, you can take out the differental. Not recommended for thermal soaring but if you are not thermal soaring then it doesn't matter.

I presume you know to move the control arm on the aileron end to the hole closest to the surface and the farthest away from the servo. Not sure where they are as it comes out of the box.

You can take out the Y cable and put the flaps on their own channels and mix ailerons to flaps. TD pilots do this at about 50% rate on the down side, but we do it so we can move the ailerons less in order to create the least drag possible, not to get faster roll rate for aerobatics.

Frankly, when flown as a TD glider you don't need a lot of aileron. The more you move the ailerons the more drag you induce and the faster you sink.


now, if you are flying on the slope, then it is different.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 06:43 AM
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do more research!

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Originally Posted by Myko View Post
Wow, great reccomendatiton. It's cheap and is exactly what I want out of a glider. Thank you for your time and advise.
I have read that this sailplane has weak wings that will fold if you take it to fast and then pull up.You might be interested in the Rifle which is a true hotliner.

But for the life of me I cannot understand why someone would buy what is marketed and designed as a sailplane and then complain because its too slow and does not fly 3D ! The idea behind motorized sailplanes is to use the motor to get you up then shut the motor off and try to find thermals, which both versions of the Radian does.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tlar633 View Post
I have read that this sailplane has weak wings that will fold if you take it to fast and then pull up.You might be interested in the Rifle which is a true hotliner.

But for the life of me I cannot understand why someone would buy what is marketed and designed as a sailplane and then complain because its too slow and does not fly 3D ! The idea behind motorized sailplanes is to use the motor to get you up then shut the motor off and try to find thermals, which both versions of the Radian does.

I agree. I have two war birds , two Foamy 3D planes, and a Radian Pro. They all fly different and I love what each one of them does.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tlar633 View Post
But for the life of me I cannot understand why someone would buy what is marketed and designed as a sailplane and then complain because its too slow and does not fly 3D ! The idea behind motorized sailplanes is to use the motor to get you up then shut the motor off and try to find thermals, which both versions of the Radian does.
Agree 100%.
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