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Old May 17, 2006, 09:50 AM
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Blue main gear or not??

Well after installing a one-way in a main gear (not taking my time ). I noticed that the main gear moves up and down as it turns on the shaft and misses the pinion at some point (yo-yo effect I think, from another thread found).

I am wondering if I should get the blue main gears or the original white ones? What are the differences between the blue and white (the cost differance is minimal)? The reduction is only in the tail gear drive set right?

Trex 450XL HDE
430L, 11t

Thanks
Wynn
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Old May 17, 2006, 10:15 AM
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The blue main gears have a different number of teeth compared with the original white one, but they do NOT run any more straight than the stock one. The gear reduction is for the tail only, yes.

I have them in both of my Rexes. If you get one, you have to get the matching blue front tail gear too, otherwise they won't mesh together. The blue gear has less teeth and is therefore slightly smaller than the white gear.

I have the complete microheli setup in one of my Rexes, with the White CNC Delrin main gear, blue autorotation tail drive gear, Front shaft with blue delrin gear, and aluminum pulleys..........the white Delrin main drive gear is the only one that spins straight and true.
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:06 AM
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I have to correct you Honda, Wynn was refering to the "main" gear, not the tail gear. The blue main gear is the same size and has the same number of teeth. It is a more dense plastic making it tougher and usually spins more true to center.

The blue tail reduction gear set is recommened only if your running 3000+ headspeed.
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:07 AM
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Wynn... I'm guessing that you are referring to the higher strength blue main gear - and not the smaller tail drive gear which sits underneath it.

The tail drive gear does, indeed, have a different number of teeth and needs an appropriate pulley gear for the belt drive to work.

The high strength main gear can be fitted in isolation - you can change out just the white main gear for a blue one and stick with the 'normal' ratio white tail drive gear (I have this on one of my G4 framed Trexes).

The blue gears are supposed to be stronger... maybe they do run a little more 'true' also - I started using because my 5S Trex was very prone to stripping gears and they have helped a lot.

However, the amount of up/down that you describe seems excessive. Have you ensured that your main shaft is installed correctly ... is there any adjustment for how 'vertical' the main shaft is? Not played with a XL HDE frame but the Rotorworkz frames (and I think the Align CF frames) have scope for the bearing blocks to be adjusted fore and aft - which affects the angle of the main gear and how it meshes with the pinion. Unless you've severely bent the inside of the white main gear (the alu sleeve) whilst fitting the one way, or it was defective, then it should not be THAT bad.
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:23 AM
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I was going to start complaining about "there is no blue main gear!" but then I remembered that there is.

However, I've heard that it's no stronger or truer than the white gear, because it's molded, just like the stock one. The microheli delrin version runs true and is seriously strong.
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:31 AM
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What's the benefit again of the blue tail drive gears?
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motions
I have to correct you Honda, Wynn was refering to the "main" gear, not the tail gear. The blue main gear is the same size and has the same number of teeth. It is a more dense plastic making it tougher and usually spins more true to center.
You're right, sorry I missread the post. I'm not convinced that it's a much stronger or truer gear though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motions
The blue tail reduction gear set is recommened only if your running 3000+ headspeed.
The blue tail gear reduction is also necessary if you want to upgrade to a cnc tail pulley.......I've never seen one that came with a standard white gear attached. Luckily align give you the blue auto-rotation gear in the set.
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motions
...The blue tail reduction gear set is recommened only if your running 3000+ headspeed.
So are there 2 set of blue tail reduction gear sets ??? Cus i just got me SE and it has blue gears, and all the SE's now come with both blue gears and i dont intend to run 3000 and i'm sure Aling dont think all SE owners are gonna ether.

So whats the REAL story ???
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Old May 17, 2006, 11:59 AM
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I have had a few of the blue main gears that were both out of round and wernt' flat causign them to move up and down when viewed from the side. I think this happens when the hole for the 1 way isn't perfectly straight up and down.
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Old May 17, 2006, 03:29 PM
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Wynn1427's Avatar
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Thanks Motions and ukgroucho, I am talking about the main gear (top one). Think I might try them out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by H0ndaJunkie
However, I've heard that it's no stronger or truer than the white gear, because it's molded, just like the stock one. The microheli delrin version runs true and is seriously strong.
I had heard the same thing, but if ukgroucho sees a difference on a 5s , it must be stronger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ukgroucho
... However, the amount of up/down that you describe seems excessive. Have you ensured that your main shaft is installed correctly ... is there any adjustment for how 'vertical' the main shaft is? Not played with a XL HDE frame but the Rotorworkz frames (and I think the Align CF frames) have scope for the bearing blocks to be adjusted fore and aft - which affects the angle of the main gear and how it meshes with the pinion. Unless you've severely bent the inside of the white main gear (the alu sleeve) whilst fitting the one way, or it was defective, then it should not be THAT bad.
I have an HDE stock frame. I think I ruined the one-way when I hammered (tapped , next time) it into the new main gear. I noticed a problem in flight (yo-yo effect) tore it apart and laid the main gear with the one-way still in it on a table and spun it around. The edge went up and down as it went around. Removed the one-way and rolled it, and looks like one side is now warped/deformed.

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Wynn
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Old May 17, 2006, 08:11 PM
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Try a standard white gear but put the one way in more carefully - or buy one with a one way fitted. The blue gears are more expensive but stronger and a little less egg shaped IMO. The white gears are not totally round... so your gear mesh varies a little over a full rotation, this was the problem with my 5S rig (also saw it for a while on a 4S).. .. you'd give it a bit too much abuse and it would rip the top off one tooth where the gear mesh was lightest.. and then the rot starts. you start to hear this click click click in flight and you KNOW you gotta get it back down as it's eating more teeth off the gear. This is doing newbie 3D stuff so my pitch management is 'less than gentle'.
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Old May 17, 2006, 09:46 PM
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Keep the hammer in the tool drawer for getting the 1 way bearing in the gear,i use my bench vise and some scraps of wood to protect as i gently "press" it into the gear,same for removal of bearing,i stole 2 sockets out of an old socket set that are perfect for drifting the 1 way bearings in and out.
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Old May 17, 2006, 10:38 PM
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I noticed the same problem with the standard white gears. So I changed them to the Blue gears, and the samething happened.

So now I use MicroHeli super gears and it is very very true. The plastics is very rigid and it has a cool aluminum oneway bearing suport. I digged my rex into the dirt last week and I did not strip any teeth from the MicroHeli main gear. The align tail gear lost a big chunck of teeth.
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Old May 17, 2006, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdracer
I noticed the same problem with the standard white gears. So I changed them to the Blue gears, and the samething happened.

So now I use MicroHeli super gears and it is very very true. The plastics is very rigid and it has a cool aluminum oneway bearing suport. I digged my rex into the dirt last week and I did not strip any teeth from the MicroHeli main gear. The align tail gear lost a big chunck of teeth.
That main gear should stand up to a lot of abuse.....it's Delrin!!

Delrin is a type of plastic, but it's supposed to have close to the strength of aluminum.....that's why they have to CNC machine it into shape.
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 03:21 AM
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined Jun 2006
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I have read right through this thread and have not been able to form an opinion as to whether the blue tail reduction set is intended only for people wanting to run 2800-3000 rpm head speeds. I have the reduction set fitted using a GY 240 and HS 81 and find my tail does not hold as well now as it did before fitting the reduction set.I have played with the gyro gain,servo end points and servo arms. I run approx 2600rpm head speed and am wondering if I should revert back to the standard tail gear and pulley gear as my piros rates are now pretty slow?
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