Old Skool Phase 6 - Page 4

DrFragnasty · Oct 24, 2009, 07:55 AM

That's a nice P6 Jon.

I don't suppose you've got an Estrella as well ;0) ?

As for progress the root ribs are done (hard balsa) and the servo lead runs are marked out ready for melting.

I only wish I had a long piece of piano wire a la Phil Barnes. I might resort to routing a channel with the Dremel then running drinking straws along it.

Chris.

cynjon · Oct 25, 2009, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrFragnasty

I don't suppose you've got an Estrella as well ;0) ?

Not yet...

dav3uk · Oct 28, 2009, 03:39 PM

Heres an original phase 6 Pro from around 1980 always had a soft spot for the shape (skinny kipper)

Dave

DrFragnasty · Oct 30, 2009, 05:58 AM

That cuts a striking profile Dave...still got it?

Here's work-in-progress.

Next-up:

reinforce tail pivot with a little more carbon cloth
size and cut wing mylars (just top/bottom for 1 side)
cut fabric
position hinge fabric
do layup and in the bag
trim flaps ailerons
cut hinges
cut out servo bays

etc.

Chris

Hexosex · Oct 30, 2009, 07:35 AM

Good stuff! I think there might be some binding when that servo arm is at 20 degrees! How you gonna fix that?

dav3uk · Oct 30, 2009, 02:37 PM

Alas no after about 3 wings and new fuz it was totaled in a collision with a large rock just out of sight in the grass at a slope not local to me........funny afterwards all the locals said "didnt you know about the rock we never land there..."

DrFragnasty · Oct 31, 2009, 07:21 AM

If you're gonna crash Dave it might as well be a rock, there's no point going in half-arsed.

Pushrod clearance sorted by using slightly larger servo arm.

Fin mount done. Tail pivot entombed but it's easy to re-locate the pivot holes.

Tails sprayed.

Next-up: cut the mylars

Chris.

DrFragnasty · Nov 02, 2009, 02:05 AM

Did a bit more this am.

I bought a moisture filter for the spray gun and it's working. There's droplets forming in the collecting vessel after only a brief spray.

The little spray gun works well but it is brand new and doesn't have any caked on residue yet...

Next up, cutting the cloth.

Chris.

jackdb · Nov 04, 2009, 02:03 PM

Very nice job Chris, do you have the plans?

Tks!

Jack

DrFragnasty · Nov 05, 2009, 01:10 AM

No Jack,my father has the original kit which I've "backed-up"
for posterity. I bascially copied the wing/tail moments/ fin profile
and wing planform and took it from there.

If I had time I'd reverse-engineer this version into a vector file.

Chris.

DrFragnasty · Nov 05, 2009, 04:23 PM

In the bag and holding vacuum v. well; 2 secs on for 3.5 mins off.

I'm short of table space so just 1 wing at a time at this stage.

The joiner box got deformed under vac. So, removed the wing and inserted a foam plug into the joiner and re-sealed. It's still not perfect but we'll see how it works out tonight.

Chris

flyonline · Nov 05, 2009, 10:32 PM

Interesting that you like the caulk better than sealing the bag. I had trouble with the stuff I used, it pulled too easily and after a couple of uses there were plenty of micro holes I couldn't chase down. I switched to using a soldering iron and L Al bar to hold it nice and tight and at a slow speed it seals and cuts at the same time and I can now get many (10+?) uses from the one bag before it starts to let go.

Looking nice, I've always been a bit of a fan of retro stuff.

Steve

DrFragnasty · Nov 06, 2009, 03:11 AM

Sounds like a good solution Steve. I'll keep that technique in mind.

The acrylic caulk is OK but where the clips crimp the edge there's some stress on the bag & clips because of the caulk thickness. I had to move the clips inwards because it cut a leak after my mucking-around with the joiner box insert.

As for lay-up:
1.4 oz kevlar leading-edge stuck on with 3M77.

3/4 oz outside, 1.4 oz 'glass inside and 1.5" wide peel ply strip sandwiched between the 2 on the lower skin for bottom-hinge flaps/ailerons.

It's still a bit green so will trim it more tomorrow am.

Chris.

jackdb · Nov 06, 2009, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrFragnasty

No Jack,my father has the original kit which I've "backed-up"
for posterity. I bascially copied the wing/tail moments/ fin profile
and wing planform and took it from there.

If I had time I'd reverse-engineer this version into a vector file.

Chris.

All right, Tks Chris!

prodjx · Nov 06, 2009, 10:58 AM

You ought to see if you can get Tacky Tape over there, I get ti locally at a roofing supply store. It's 1/16-1/8th inch thick and about 1/2inch wide, and then I use a roller. If I'm careful I can snap it apart and use it over again several time's. At Grumman's Advanced Composites Facility in Georgia we used to bring it in buy the railroad car. I've been using it since 1971. We used to use steel angle iron frame's on our vacumme table's with mixed sucess. I've never used those split tube's, seem's like they create leek issue's. We had a gun shaped device with ear phone's that could detect leak's. I'm retired now and miss it.

Oct 28, 2009, 03:39 PM	#48
dav3uk Slopejunkie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Uk South Wales Posts: 138	Heres an original phase 6 Pro from around 1980 always had a soft spot for the shape (skinny kipper) Dave Attached Thumbnails Pylon racing with street lamps circa 1980 55.8 KB · Views: 48

Oct 30, 2009, 05:58 AM	#49
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	Wip That cuts a striking profile Dave...still got it? Here's work-in-progress. Next-up: reinforce tail pivot with a little more carbon cloth size and cut wing mylars (just top/bottom for 1 side) cut fabric position hinge fabric do layup and in the bag trim flaps ailerons cut hinges cut out servo bays etc. Chris Attached Thumbnails servo lead channels are done...simply drinking straws then backfill with spackfiller. 91.9 KB · Views: 41 e374...sort of a Clark Y with a high Philips entry. Joiner/ joiner box fit is snug. 80.1 KB · Views: 51 Orange tail still looks foul. Turtledeck done but only after servos installed and pushrods sorted. 126.4 KB · Views: 43 Lots of travel! I'm quite pleased with the mechanical action of the tail, not much play and not much friction. Note aerial exit. 78.5 KB · Views: 42 Spot the tragedy in the making ;0) The gold n' rod inner is for the aerial, larger hole for wing servo lead bundle. 65.5 KB · Views: 55 Schultze 835 and 1600mAh Intellects to go in the snout. One way to install servo bearers is size them, drill them (with clearance of .75mm from servo) mount servos, attach pushrods postion servos then apply zap and accelerator. 103.0 KB · Views: 54

Oct 31, 2009, 07:21 AM	#52
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	Wip If you're gonna crash Dave it might as well be a rock, there's no point going in half-arsed. Pushrod clearance sorted by using slightly larger servo arm. Fin mount done. Tail pivot entombed but it's easy to re-locate the pivot holes. Tails sprayed. Next-up: cut the mylars Chris. Attached Thumbnails All balsa to balsa done using this glue. 109.4 KB · Views: 34 Too much bench flying not enough building ;0) 113.2 KB · Views: 41 mount for fin done 116.8 KB · Views: 36 increased side area should make knife-edge better 87.0 KB · Views: 37

Nov 02, 2009, 02:05 AM	#53
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	Wip Did a bit more this am. I bought a moisture filter for the spray gun and it's working. There's droplets forming in the collecting vessel after only a brief spray. The little spray gun works well but it is brand new and doesn't have any caked on residue yet... Next up, cutting the cloth. Chris. Attached Thumbnails 14 mil mylar, cut to suit and waxed twice. 104.2 KB · Views: 44 I'm impressed with this gun; smooth and light and holds enough for a wing. 117.9 KB · Views: 42 White acrylic down with lots of hairs dammit; I'll gently tease them off with a fingernail. I may have to evict the cats. 101.9 KB · Views: 35 Matt black acrylic for the underside. 87.2 KB · Views: 43

Nov 05, 2009, 01:10 AM	#55
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	reverse indian ear No Jack,my father has the original kit which I've "backed-up" for posterity. I bascially copied the wing/tail moments/ fin profile and wing planform and took it from there. If I had time I'd reverse-engineer this version into a vector file. Chris.

Oct 24, 2009, 07:55 AM	#46
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	That's a nice P6 Jon. I don't suppose you've got an Estrella as well ;0) ? As for progress the root ribs are done (hard balsa) and the servo lead runs are marked out ready for melting. I only wish I had a long piece of piano wire a la Phil Barnes. I might resort to routing a channel with the Dremel then running drinking straws along it. Chris.

Oct 30, 2009, 07:35 AM	#50
Hexosex Byte my shiny metal @ss Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 616	Good stuff! I think there might be some binding when that servo arm is at 20 degrees! How you gonna fix that?

Oct 30, 2009, 02:37 PM	#51
dav3uk Slopejunkie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Uk South Wales Posts: 138	Alas no after about 3 wings and new fuz it was totaled in a collision with a large rock just out of sight in the grass at a slope not local to me........funny afterwards all the locals said "didnt you know about the rock we never land there..."

Nov 04, 2009, 02:03 PM	#54
jackdb Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 173	Very nice job Chris, do you have the plans? Tks! Jack

Nov 05, 2009, 04:23 PM	#56
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	In the bag In the bag and holding vacuum v. well; 2 secs on for 3.5 mins off. I'm short of table space so just 1 wing at a time at this stage. The joiner box got deformed under vac. So, removed the wing and inserted a foam plug into the joiner and re-sealed. It's still not perfect but we'll see how it works out tonight. Chris Attached Thumbnails 121.0 KB · Views: 40 Another shot of Scrooge's bag clips 92.4 KB · Views: 25 Acrylic caulking used to seal the long edge rather than a hot iron. Much more successful! 101.4 KB · Views: 33

Nov 05, 2009, 10:32 PM	#57
flyonline Lands upside down Join Date: May 2003 Location: Holesville Posts: 2,240	Interesting that you like the caulk better than sealing the bag. I had trouble with the stuff I used, it pulled too easily and after a couple of uses there were plenty of micro holes I couldn't chase down. I switched to using a soldering iron and L Al bar to hold it nice and tight and at a slow speed it seals and cuts at the same time and I can now get many (10+?) uses from the one bag before it starts to let go. Looking nice, I've always been a bit of a fan of retro stuff. Steve

Nov 06, 2009, 03:11 AM	#58
DrFragnasty Double Coat TimTams Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Launceston Tasmania Posts: 608	Wip Sounds like a good solution Steve. I'll keep that technique in mind. The acrylic caulk is OK but where the clips crimp the edge there's some stress on the bag & clips because of the caulk thickness. I had to move the clips inwards because it cut a leak after my mucking-around with the joiner box insert. As for lay-up: 1.4 oz kevlar leading-edge stuck on with 3M77. 3/4 oz outside, 1.4 oz 'glass inside and 1.5" wide peel ply strip sandwiched between the 2 on the lower skin for bottom-hinge flaps/ailerons. It's still a bit green so will trim it more tomorrow am. Chris. Attached Thumbnails 3/4 oz & 1.4oz 'glass on a 45 degree bias. See the insert for the joiner box? It actually came out wihtout any effort! 92.7 KB · Views: 32 Spare resin from the wing was used to secure fin. 122.6 KB · Views: 28 Trimmed a bit....more to come off the trailing edge though 89.5 KB · Views: 23 The spar is showing....you can see its guts! 86.7 KB · Views: 31 Tip courtesy of Phil Barnes; use lots of resin on the kevlar LE fabric and it's give you a good result. I'm convinced. 67.0 KB · Views: 28 One-armed bandit. 123.6 KB · Views: 30 Last edited by DrFragnasty; Nov 06, 2009 at 03:24 AM. Reason: typo nasty

Nov 06, 2009, 10:58 AM	#60
prodjx Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 1,346	You ought to see if you can get Tacky Tape over there, I get ti locally at a roofing supply store. It's 1/16-1/8th inch thick and about 1/2inch wide, and then I use a roller. If I'm careful I can snap it apart and use it over again several time's. At Grumman's Advanced Composites Facility in Georgia we used to bring it in buy the railroad car. I've been using it since 1971. We used to use steel angle iron frame's on our vacumme table's with mixed sucess. I've never used those split tube's, seem's like they create leek issue's. We had a gun shaped device with ear phone's that could detect leak's. I'm retired now and miss it.

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