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Old Apr 13, 2013, 09:16 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Ken,

You're getting close,
I think we have the same approach, but slightly different,



I use a circular motion to pivot the pins, and builded two layers of PCB, each one for a door.



With my design i can choose which door will be opened, depending on which servo i activade.

Manfred.
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Old Apr 13, 2013, 10:47 AM
Registered User
Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
826 Posts
Why not cut 2 grooves through the PCB like this, ( ). Much simpler...
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Old Apr 13, 2013, 02:14 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Romel,

It seems simpler, but it's not going to work that way, there is not enough travel to open the doors completely across the centerline, the problem with the Bronco XXIII is, they placed the tubes near the centerline, more ideal would be a position against the outer hull parts, i've build it this way at my type VII and type XVIIb, giving me more clearance for the torpedo's, and lesser motion at the doors.
Modyfing the Bronco in such way would create more work than it's worth the time, even when you've done that, you still have to solve the mechanics to open the doors.

Manfred.
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Old May 17, 2013, 12:15 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
As a reaction to the remark of Dave (Subdave) i dived into the shop and came out with this solution, pictures



The boat put together without using glue.



To get her apart you start by "breaking" the backbone.



Then you remove the planking from the upperdeck in one move.



I glued down a few stainless steel rods of 1mm underneath, giving more strenght to those planking things, they are really flimsy straight out of the box.



The single one near the tower goes off the same.



Once the planking is gone you can reach the little brass screws which are hidden underneath the planking.
All visible one's will be sealed with filler and can be made free with little effort.









Once the planking is gone i can take of the exhaustcover by unscrewing it, a small brass hook keeps it tight at the hull, used the same method for my conningtower.



Now all components are removed i can start untightening the little brass screws.



Once this is done you can split both halves, you can see the brass lips which keep both halves together.
The only place where i have to cut will be the bow, want to use simple CA to glue it tight, which can be broken open easely without much damage.



Once finished you end up with this pile of styrene, for putting her together follow the reverse order.
I hope this answers your question Dave, for me it's back to the shop for preparing my boats for next Monday, the annual submeet in Holland


Manfred.
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Old May 20, 2013, 06:45 AM
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DDG 51's Avatar
EUrope
Joined Apr 2008
748 Posts
Is on the market WTC for this size of sub??
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Old May 20, 2013, 07:37 AM
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Rochester NY
Joined Mar 2005
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I like it.
Very nice job! Dave.
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Old May 20, 2013, 12:28 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Peter,

You've got a personal message from me.

Dave,

Your remark about still getting in after completion, stirred the gerbill inside my head, i decided to use little conical screws, when the model is finished i can cover them by using filler, if needed i can scratch away the filler and open up the boat without major damage to the hull.

Manfred.
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 06:58 PM
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Rochester NY
Joined Mar 2005
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How is your build coming Manfred?
I started my Bronco build on the SC site.
I am using a similar design to your rear assembly.
I really liked that idea. Thanks for the inspiration. Dave.
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 02:09 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Dave,

I'm working my way at the conningtower, found some nice pics of the XXIII without the standard railings around the tower, the added extra steps into the tower for climbing in.
Since there will be more type XXIII's in the build, i wanted to make mine different, pictures.

Glad you could use my rudder/ propulsion module system, this is the way a forum should work.







Sticked some tape on the tower and started to draw the new floodholes accourding to my pictures, they added some bars inside those holes to replace the railings.
The steps going up the tower are the replacement for the standard ladder on front of the boat.



Those floodholes made by Bronco inside the exhaustcover i've redone to get a better shape, also added the bars for prefenting stuff entering the exhaustcover.



Right now i'm building on the deck, this picture shows the strange railings added to the deck, i was wondering why they added those.



Got my answer on this picture, those rails are part of the system to keep the wooden plank modules at their place when in harbour, notice that there is also planking around the bollards.



Used those plank modules to align the railings on my deck.



Used some H shaped styrene, which allows me to "click" in my modules, since i also need planking around the bollards, i have to scratch me a extra module.


Manfred.
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Old Jun 08, 2013, 07:08 AM
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United States, NJ, Howell
Joined Mar 2008
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Looking good Manfred. Your very detail oriented. That certainly slows the build down, but as long as it does not matter, the end result will look great!
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Old Jun 09, 2013, 11:44 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Ken,

It surely slows me down, but when done properly you're boat will be standing out in the crowd, just like you, i like details also, to my opinion they add so much to your boat,
Unlike most people think, there is much more detail present as expected.

I'll also will give you guys a update about my build, made a new planking module from scratch and added the stanchions and needed antennawire,pictures



First i made a copy from the Bronco part, not as good as theirs, but once painted and weathered it will be hard to see.



Also had to make the front planking module removable.



Took some copper rods and replicated the one's Bronco added to the kit, the tricky part was, drilling the 1 mm holes.



Made a little ring on the tower where i can hook up the line.



Dryfitting the line to see where i've had to place the ring on the deck, i always use elastick rubber cord, no springs needed, and easy to replace when needed.



Making the antennawire was a bit of a battle, it took two attempts, but i'm pleased with the result, most work was making the insulators the original way, you have to wrap your wires around both sides on the insulator, a bit tricky and time consuming, i went for the three insulator one, i've also seen pics with four insulators, but this way there will be some lengthy antennawire left.





This is where i stand now, stanchions and antennawire placed, the stanchions are removable, will only be used at the static display.
For now i'm working on the hatch where they storaged their dingy, have to add some more accurate parts.


Manfred.
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Old Jun 17, 2013, 03:32 AM
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BUCURESTI
Joined Feb 2009
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HI MANFRED,

Not get enough to watch what comes out of your hands ...... watching breathless every post to see what you've done!.

THANK YOU for THAT.

MARIUS
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 10:11 AM
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Joined Jun 2013
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Im a chinese,goods seems good, cloud you tell us where you have buy can shipping to foreign?
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 10:30 AM
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Oklahoma City OK USA Where fakts still exist even if they are ignored
Joined Aug 2000
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MANFRED! you are a true modeling CRAFTSMAN sir! Beautiful work!

fuwen0202 Bronco models, the source of the plastic model IS a Chinese company:
http://www.bronco-model.com/cn/index.php
You can buy them at home!
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Old Jun 19, 2013, 01:26 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
359 Posts
Thanks Guys,

Made some more progress on this boat, detailed the resqueboat hatch, added some detail to the mainhatch of the tower and made me a resquebouy from scratch, pictures.



This is where i stand now, i'll show you guys some details.



The lockingmechanism is in general the same as they used on their watertight ammo containers, just more beefy.



When you unturn the bolt it's possible to swiffle the lockingbar away, then the hatch can be opened.



The mainhatch on the tower is a bit standard.





Remade the hinges and added some handels, now it's possible to open up the hatch when needed, instead being glued tight open or closed.



Don't know why they didn't add the safetybouy, but i wanted one, most pictures i have showed them on the boats.
Took some 3 mm plexiglass and copper plate to make these items.



Placed at the peroscope protecter, the bouy itself can be taken from the holder when i will drive the boat, at static display it will be added.

Right now i'm working on the snorkeldevice, the guys from Bronco gave me a good start to begin with, i will turn it inside out and give it some working details, be patient.


Manfred.
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