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Old Sep 11, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by josereyes View Post
Buddertoast
Here are the two 4 blade heads I got available...
One is CopterX 600 and Century 4 blade 12mm with a 10mm Sleve..

On the Century I could never get to work on my heli, due to the fact that I had to do a mechanically phasing and was causing interferience with the rods and follower, so I was getting vibrations... If you plan on doing the phasing electronically, then it should not be such a problem.
For the Century you will need a swash follower and the rods...

The Copter X is already mechanically phased and trimmed... of course you would have to adjust the servo to swash links...
Are you in the U.S.?
With phasing, I mean I wouldn't even know how to set up phasing with my sk720?????
In other words, can I still use the sk720 on the copterx without setting up phasing?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:11 PM
Scale or Bust (mostly bust!)
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United States, AZ, Casa Grande
Joined Dec 2010
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Oh say Jose...

I see you used longer ball links on one of your 600 size heads. Where did you source them? I am in desperate need of a whole handfull of long(er) ball links for the 500 size CopterX head. Mine is a phasing vs link angle issue. The longer link at about 8mm from shoulder the base of the ball is the ideal. The 500 size is the standard 4.8mm ball and 2mm thread.

Apologize for the hijack of the thread, but the opportunity was too much for me to pass up. Thanks guys!!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FerretMaster View Post
Apologize for the hijack of the thread, but the opportunity was too much for me to pass up. Thanks guys!!
I think the thread has already been hijacked! I'm very sorry Jay........ But at least the concept of most of it is still about the apache..
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:30 PM
Scale or Bust (mostly bust!)
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Originally Posted by buddertoast View Post
I think the thread has already been hijacked! I'm very sorry Jay........ But at least the concept of most of it is still about the apache..
If it helps at all, it's a 500 size RCA AH-64, or at least one of them is. Other two I'm needing the longer link balls for are the UH/SH-60 also RCA and the A-109, again from RCA.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:32 PM
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Keyrigger's Avatar
Mississauga, Ont., Can.
Joined Sep 2009
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buddertoast:

Electronic phasing of a head with the SK720 software is very simple. In the Swashplate menu, there is an adjustment tab in the lower right corner called "Phase Trim" and that is your phase angle changing tab. You set one blade out over the boom then adjust the trim angle plus or minus until there in no movement of the blade when you move the elevator stick. You must make sure that the grip over the boom is exactly 90 degrees so that it will give you a proper reading. You can always make further trim changes if there is a tendency to move left or right when an elevator only input is given while in flight. You can change it with a computer or the portable LCD screen (optional extra). Phasing is very simple and it is done the same way whether you have three or seven blades. I have mechanically phased heads without the blades in place and still had success doing so. Take care.

Don
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:55 PM
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United States, WA, Steilacoom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddertoast View Post
Are you in the U.S.?
With phasing, I mean I wouldn't even know how to set up phasing with my sk720?????
In other words, can I still use the sk720 on the copterx without setting up phasing?
For the Copter X yes you can use it as is, as is already setup for mechanical phasing.I was under the impression that you wanted to do electronic phasing... if you don't want to do electronic phasing then just fly it as is.. as long you do as mentioned below (servo to swash legnth adjustments)

... all you would have to do is set your servo to swash links so when you are at mid stick on your transmitter, the blades on the head are at zero pitch. You have to make sure you have a linear pitch curve in order to setup correctly..

linear 0,25,50,75,100
Once you set your servo to swash rod length and you achieve zero pich at midstick, then you can set your pitch curve to whatever you want..

Like I said earlier, the Copter X head is already phased correctly, I had been fying that head for about 25 flights... if you don't want to have to mess with the rods on the heads, then all you will need is to do as I mentioned... adjust the length of the servo to swash rods.. if you still have this as a pod-n-boon is a piece of cake.. if is in the fuse is going to be a little harder but not impossible..

Now if you want to use the Century Head, the best way is to do it electronically... I'm pretty sure some one can help you on this here... I don't have an SK720, I use BeastX on all my heli's

For the Copter X head you will have to tone down the swash gain on the flybarless unit, to make less sensitive.. you will have to do this as per your manual and then do a fly and see how it performs..

Some flybarless units are more sensitive than others... on the Beast X I had to lower the swash gain by two to three clicks...
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:32 AM
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http://www.scaleflying.com/600-Size-...ad_p_2316.html

Has anyone used this head for there apache?
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 04:06 PM
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Haha nope no hijacking here just sharing of common knowledge which is what its all about.

On all 3 of my 600 size scale birds i am using the double-cats 4 blade / 5 blade cnc heads. they are excellent, apart from an incorrectly drilled top hole on the apache one which i fixed quite easily, i have zero complaints and have worked for me perfectly on all 3 occasions. setting up is childs play. they come with swashplate, swash follower, linkage rods and instructions, and fit perfectly on a t-rex mainshaft as well as compass mainshaft.

support wise, check this, I snapped a ball link when my apache went down due to boom strike, i emailed double-cats and young, the main man there got back to me within minutes, and advised me that they do replacement parts for every single pice on their heads and have just upgraded their phase arm sets to a longer version for better control and that he would happily send these parts out as he would prefer i fly with the new upgrades, i just had to pay for postage. so i did, then the package arrived, and he also included all new feathering shafts, swash follower, bearings and thrust bearings as well as the new phase arms. cost me 17usd.

Thats customer support and execution at its finest.

Also, my cockpit panels only took a week to arrive so im currently rebuilding the cokcpit panel supports, and will add led backing lights behind the screens. the dry assembly looks AWESOME~
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JayNZ View Post
Haha nope no hijacking here just sharing of common knowledge which is what its all about.

On all 3 of my 600 size scale birds i am using the double-cats 4 blade / 5 blade cnc heads. they are excellent, apart from an incorrectly drilled top hole on the apache one which i fixed quite easily, i have zero complaints and have worked for me perfectly on all 3 occasions. setting up is childs play. they come with swashplate, swash follower, linkage rods and instructions, and fit perfectly on a t-rex mainshaft as well as compass mainshaft.
So the double-cats is the rotor head with the link I posted? and how did you get the sensor for the top?

I disputed the apache rotor head and xblade tail with paypal and they forces cnchelicopters to give me a refund!! very pleased. Love paypal. So I got my
$380 back and will never buy from them again and I do not recommend them to anyone!!
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Hi Bud, thats awesome news bro, stoked for you.

order the 4 blade head from http://double-cats.com/ - and tell young jay from new zealand sent you. you may get a hookup! it took a total of 8 days for my stuff to arrive from him.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:34 PM
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Its been a busy day tinkering away in the lab, setting up the new cockpit, complete with LED back lights behind the monitors, and im pretty stoked with the results.

I had to rip out and totally re-make new panel backing to fix the new panels from robcon-rc.com, and they did take a little editing to get them to fit correctly inside the TFMODEL/SMARTMODEL apache cockpit platform, but nothing too major.


gunner arrangement

Pilot Arrangement:

back lit TADS monitors and Pilot monitors in the dark (mainly for display purposes when it comes to evening time at the new zealand national scale champs which are going to be held at my airfield next march)



Just about to add the pilot/gunner, make a joystick for the pilot and then start work on a new hatch system so i can also open the right hand side cockpit doors for display, which if anyone has any tips on, id really appreciate.

my mate ben from hobby city has suggested servo driven doors for the cockpit. sounds like a logistical and technical nightmare but damn that would look sick once you spool down, and the cockpit windows slowly open...Ah...i love this hobby. unfortunately i think its a bitt far out of my current skill set to accomplish this on my own so an easier option is a must for now i guess?

i cant wait to get her back in the air, especially now the blackhawk is up and running pretty much perfectly.

Safe landings folks!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 01:36 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddertoast View Post
So the double-cats is the rotor head with the link I posted? and how did you get the sensor for the top?

I disputed the apache rotor head and xblade tail with paypal and they forces cnchelicopters to give me a refund!! very pleased. Love paypal. So I got my
$380 back and will never buy from them again and I do not recommend them to anyone!!
Hi Buddy

Good news for you I'm glad that at least the money is back, still from the head and the attitude off the suppler.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayNZ View Post
Its been a busy day tinkering away in the lab, setting up the new cockpit, complete with LED back lights behind the monitors, and im pretty stoked with the results.

I had to rip out and totally re-make new panel backing to fix the new panels from robcon-rc.com, and they did take a little editing to get them to fit correctly inside the TFMODEL/SMARTMODEL apache cockpit platform, but nothing too major.


gunner arrangement

Pilot Arrangement:

back lit TADS monitors and Pilot monitors in the dark (mainly for display purposes when it comes to evening time at the new zealand national scale champs which are going to be held at my airfield next march)



Just about to add the pilot/gunner, make a joystick for the pilot and then start work on a new hatch system so i can also open the right hand side cockpit doors for display, which if anyone has any tips on, id really appreciate.

my mate ben from hobby city has suggested servo driven doors for the cockpit. sounds like a logistical and technical nightmare but damn that would look sick once you spool down, and the cockpit windows slowly open...Ah...i love this hobby. unfortunately i think its a bitt far out of my current skill set to accomplish this on my own so an easier option is a must for now i guess?

i cant wait to get her back in the air, especially now the blackhawk is up and running pretty much perfectly.

Safe landings folks!
Jay what are you doing to me now with this incredible nice cockpit
This cool...
About the doors why not using the little electrical landing-gears Hobby King has to open them, maybe a option?

But looking nice Man Job well done

PS glad to hear that the tail is ok now from your BlackHawk but I did not expect that to be honest that the tail rotor was messing around?

Jan,
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 05:42 AM
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Hahaha, no im not trying to do anything to you jan! just having fun with the rebuild and i like the sound of the landing gears, do you have a link for them?

with the blackhawk tail, yes i figured out it was the cheap 4blade tail rotor, the pushrod hub that guides the blade pitch seemed to look like it was wobbling when it was spinning, leading to me to decide its bent slightly. to be honest it used to work fine, so i think i must have damaged it somehow during assembly of the tail section on the uh-60. gutted. still, it wasnt a very good head.

more pics!


Illuminated pilot console

Illuminated gunner console
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Last edited by JayNZ; Sep 14, 2012 at 06:23 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 04:56 PM
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I looked around for micro worm drive landing gears, which really are the only feasible option,, and they just dont make them small enough. these would need to be truly micro to fit as hinges inside the cockpit.

Air actuated gears are another option but that involves a lot of work, weight, tubing and an air canister, valve system etc. i think i will just leave it for now, or possibly just look at exterior hinges and hatch latch or something.
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