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Old Jun 06, 2014, 02:39 PM
Scott
flyin_high's Avatar
United States, OR
Joined Jan 2006
26 Posts
I'm curious if anybody else has been having stability issues in the water with the floats. I've had it a couple times now where it is about to come up on the step and it takes a sudden turn and dips a wing tip into the water almost like a ground loop. One instance resulted in my plane floating upside down in the river for a while, ultimately ruining one aileron servo.

So, after my last "incident" (let's just say low alt. snap rolls and road signs don't mix) I decided two things: 1) I would rebuild the cub with some modifications and 2) I needed an aerobatic plane so I wasn't tempted to do low alt. snap rolls with a cub.

I added some water rudders to the floats, although they are not steerable, they should provide some straight line stability and were extremely easy and cheap. I took an expired AOPA card and cut it to the shape I desired, cut a slot in the back of the floats, added some foam safe CA and done. While I was at it I took the flap control rod from the old wing and bent it to the shape of the bottom of the rudder and glued and taped it into place to add some extra support to the tail wheel (the last airframe took significant abuse so I figured a little more strength back there was needed for my love of touch and goes).

I have yet to test the floats with the new mod, however the rudder stregnthing so far works like a charm and didn't affect theCG.

As for my aerobatic problem, I bought a UMX Pitts and yes, it flies beautifully!

Pics of the mods...
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Old Jun 06, 2014, 09:32 PM
Scott
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United States, OR
Joined Jan 2006
26 Posts
On closer examination it appears that the floats may be slightly towed in, closer together at the front than the rear. This may be the source of the sudden turn and dip in the water, however I can't seem to adjust the distance apart on the floats without doing some significant mods. Hopefully my water rudder quick fix will solve the problem.
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Old Jun 18, 2014, 10:34 PM
Registered User
DFW Texas
Joined Jan 2004
74 Posts
I have been looking for instructions as to how to set the flaps to my three position FLT mode on my DX7. Is there a step-by step procedure around, I would like to try mixing some elevator in with the different positions also. The challenge is I have read to chose the Wing Type of Dual aileron single flap, bu t the DX7 does not have that option. I have tried the [Prog Mix1] of Flap>Gear, and have been able to put values in the [FLAP SYS] for the three positions, but no luck yet.Thanks for the help
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 12:28 AM
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Joined Jun 2014
1 Posts
Just select dual aileron dual flap. It won't know the difference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcubed View Post
I have been looking for instructions as to how to set the flaps to my three position FLT mode on my DX7. Is there a step-by step procedure around, I would like to try mixing some elevator in with the different positions also. The challenge is I have read to chose the Wing Type of Dual aileron single flap, bu t the DX7 does not have that option. I have tried the [Prog Mix1] of Flap>Gear, and have been able to put values in the [FLAP SYS] for the three positions, but no luck yet.Thanks for the help
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 12:22 PM
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Joined Jun 2014
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While flying my carbon cub, sometimes the engine cuts out as if it is not receiving power. The plane then begins to descend rapidly. After a second or so the engine will sometimes kick back in... the engine itself is a new 2500kv model but the as3x receiver board is original I believe. Any idea what the issue is? I haven't investigated enough to determine if its because I am flying until the battery is about to die or because there is a receiver issue... any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

- Jim
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 02:11 PM
Parkzone junkie
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,536 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimd0586 View Post
While flying my carbon cub, sometimes the engine cuts out as if it is not receiving power. The plane then begins to descend rapidly. After a second or so the engine will sometimes kick back in... the engine itself is a new 2500kv model but the as3x receiver board is original I believe. Any idea what the issue is? I haven't investigated enough to determine if its because I am flying until the battery is about to die or because there is a receiver issue... any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

- Jim
Over Temp and Over Current Protections (OTP and OCP) have this symptom. If it is temp usually you lose ALL controls if it is OCP then just motor. On the CC this is rare but could happen if the prop+spinner was VERY off balance.

-Brian
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 07:55 PM
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Thanks Brian (Kalmon). How would you suggest I fix it?
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:03 PM
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Joined Jun 2014
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Reply to Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Over Temp and Over Current Protections (OTP and OCP) have this symptom. If it is temp usually you lose ALL controls if it is OCP then just motor. On the CC this is rare but could happen if the prop+spinner was VERY off balance.

-Brian
Anyway to check if the prop and spinner is off balance without a prop balancer? Should I just buy a new prop and spinner? I don't have the CC in front of me but I think it is all one piece that screws onto the engine.
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimd0586 View Post
Anyway to check if the prop and spinner is off balance without a prop balancer? Should I just buy a new prop and spinner? I don't have the CC in front of me but I think it is all one piece that screws onto the engine.
I thought I read that a GWS 5030 prop could reduce OCP or OT. Is this true?
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 09:28 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimd0586 View Post
Anyway to check if the prop and spinner is off balance without a prop balancer? Should I just buy a new prop and spinner? I don't have the CC in front of me but I think it is all one piece that screws onto the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimd0586 View Post
I thought I read that a GWS 5030 prop could reduce OCP or OT. Is this true?
Yes, The 5030 does draw less amps while producing more thrust, However even the stock on should be nowhere near OCP unless something else is wrong. I posted on the main CC thread with things to check. It is not all one unit, There is a single screw behind the spinner (which is just glued on). If you remove the spinner it will most likely rip, so order a few extras.

also,
No need to get a prop balancer for this size. Just dynamically balance the whole system on the plane. Hold the plane on the cowl behind the prop. run up the motor and feel for vibrations, add a small piece of tape to one blade, note if the vibrations get better or worse. if the vibrations are worse switch the tape to the other blade. If the vibrations are better add another piece of tape. Repeat until it runs smoothly.

-Brian
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 10:04 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,660 Posts
Jim,

Just to clarify - there are two types of OTP. When the ESC goes into OTP, you still have control, but motor power won't be restored until the ESC cools off. The only time the controls also die is when the voltage regulator goes into OTP. If it's OCP, briefly cycling the throttle will immediately restore motor power. LVC will also cut motor power if the pack sags heavily under load, but motor power will be immediately restored when you reduce throttle, and the problem will immediately return if you increase throttle again.

As Brian noted - the CC doesn't have OCP or OTP issues unless something is badly wrong. If yours is hitting OTP or OCP, something else is wrong, and switching props won't fix it. Neither will flying at 50% throttle. First off, you need to determine if it's LVC, OCP, or OTP, based on the descriptions above.

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Aug 05, 2014 at 10:16 PM.
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