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Old Jan 22, 2015, 08:44 PM
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I went to Office Depot and bought a bag with 100 rubber bands in it. Rather inexpensive and now I have lots of rubber bands for attaching my Albatross's wing. Keep them in my field box in a baggie.
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Old Jan 22, 2015, 08:54 PM
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I get a bag of the #64 rubber bands in the stationary aisle at Wally World. I do find they fail over time--think the exposure to UV rays. I always do four cress crossed and a single front to back on each side--6 rubber bands total.
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Old Jan 22, 2015, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by denial15 View Post
If you put the lights sideways, they'll light up more of the foam, so the plane itself will light up.
But wouldn't it light one side of the plane more than the other?

7x57
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 12:24 AM
Lee
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Originally Posted by 7x57 View Post
But wouldn't it light one side of the plane more than the other?

7x57
In the fuselage they don't make that much of a difference. In a thinner wing it seems to be more directional.
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by nightfox7 View Post
I just use the blue, it seems to work good enough for me.
If you ever use it on a lot of tiny screws with Philips heads you are likely to change your mind. Philips screw heads are actually *designed* to cam out for reasons that are not useful in 99% of applications, and blue threadlocker is a great way to make this happen with small screws and destroy the heads so they are unremovable. The motor screws are hex heads and so don't cam out, but I do wonder about putting too much torque the tiny Allen wrenches.

Anyway, #222 is great, underappreciated stuff.

Quote:
I need to shim my motor a bit..
Quite possibly I do as well, I just used a flat toothpick. I didn't notice any issues, but I haven't flown the plane very long and maybe don't know enough to notice anyway.

7x57
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Siv View Post
As you fly (and crash) more, you'll need to build up a little field repair kit so that you can keep going after a few dings.
As you'll see when (if) I get to the part where Science Guy flew, I have a fair amount of repair stuff in my RC toolbox. The little glue gun with the XT60 connector in particular is worth ten times what I paid for it. However, I don't have a small container I can take out on the field with me.

Quote:
- By far the most important bits to keep are many rubber bands - I have broken more than I can remember but that's what they are there for.
I intend to buy a bag of 100 to keep in my box--I just didn't manage to get to the office supply store before going flying.

Quote:
- Also, keep a stock of propellers - even with a pod mount I have broken several props with inadvertent arrivals upside down or into a tree/bush
I have ten or so. When I bought the parts I decided I was going to do it right this time and not try to skimp, so I bought extras for the expendables.

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- Some good clear tape.
Sometimes an arrival will tear or lift up the laminate on the fuselage and a piece of tape will keep the tear/lift from spreading
That's a good idea, I just have the etape and some masking tape in there.

Quote:
- Some spare dubro ez connect control rod linkages (specifically the screw) - Several times I have lost the little screw that hold the linkage in place and without it, flying is over.
$lhs was out of them when I tried to get more.

I may switch to the kind with the spring-loaded jaws anyway, I like being able to adjust by turns instead of by eye. I hadn't thought it through that far, but lack of screws is a good feature too.

Quote:
- A pair of pliers to straighten out bent things
- Since they are so cheap, a spare motor and speed control (and screw drivers to unscrew and replace the motor.
If you want to be totally prepared; a couple servos, hot glue gun, portable iron and laminate will mean you can repair practically anything!
I have all that except the portable iron and laminate in the box. The motor and ESC are really for the Q-Plane version, though, so I should maybe order a couple more. One set would go on an assassin if I still have any planes left in me after finishing the Qbatross.

I also want a battery-powered soldering iron.

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Oh, and as you fly, you are almost always looking at the bottom of the plane so that's where you need to put your colours. Same with LEDs...
But when people look at it up close they're always looking at the top, and paint on the bottom only would look weird. Vanity counts, too.

7x57
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7x57 View Post
If you ever use it on a lot of tiny screws with Philips heads you are likely to change your mind. Philips screw heads are actually *designed* to cam out for reasons that are not useful in 99% of applications, and blue threadlocker is a great way to make this happen with small screws and destroy the heads so they are unremovable. The motor screws are hex heads and so don't cam out, but I do wonder about putting too much torque the tiny Allen wrenches.

Anyway, #222 is great, underappreciated stuff.



Quite possibly I do as well, I just used a flat toothpick. I didn't notice any issues, but I haven't flown the plane very long and maybe don't know enough to notice anyway.

7x57
Hm, i'll have to get some and check it out!
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee View Post
In the fuselage they don't make that much of a difference. In a thinner wing it seems to be more directional.
Huh. I wouldn't have thought so, but I'm the last guy to know. Now I just have to get Eric to decide and commit to a workable light scheme.

One thing that *really* helped was actually seeing the strips at the Expo and having someone show me where the little solder pads are and such. That answered a host of questions.

7x57
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7x57 View Post
If you ever use it on a lot of tiny screws with Philips heads you are likely to change your mind. Philips screw heads are actually *designed* to cam out for reasons that are not useful in 99% of applications, and blue threadlocker is a great way to make this happen with small screws and destroy the heads so they are unremovable. The motor screws are hex heads and so don't cam out, but I do wonder about putting too much torque the tiny Allen wrenches.
7x57
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightfox7 View Post
Hm, i'll have to get some and check it out!
If I may I wouild like to add my experience with Blue Loctite here.

I also work on Jeeps, small engines, and various other stuff like lawn mowers, chainsaws, etc. and when I need to remove a part I usually have to use a bigger wrench, an impact gun, or heat. (Which I have to admit that the Blue is still easier than the Red). When I had replaced the shaft on my Apprentice motor I had to place my motor on my fireplace (for only a few minutes on the shaft end only) before I could remove the tiny set screws. That little 1.5mm allen wrench doesn't last well without a little help. And as for a phillips screw? I'll never if I can help it.
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 10:00 PM
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I went to hook up the Q-Plane elevators to an unused port so they'd stay in place if bumped, and flipped the switches to see if the channels were really unused. That led to the discovery of the gear up/down switch, and that made me realize that they could function as flaps. I found the flap settings in the DX6i, and it looks easy to set up. I'm not sure if that's even useful on this plane, but it is kind of fun to figure out more about how the gear works. Has anyone tried this? I suppose that not very many people have a Q wing to do it with.

I imagine it would take some fiddling to figure out appropriate offsets for the "flaps" and regular elevator.

7x57
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Old Jan 23, 2015, 11:06 PM
Lee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7x57 View Post
I went to hook up the Q-Plane elevators to an unused port so they'd stay in place if bumped, and flipped the switches to see if the channels were really unused. That led to the discovery of the gear up/down switch, and that made me realize that they could function as flaps. I found the flap settings in the DX6i, and it looks easy to set up. I'm not sure if that's even useful on this plane, but it is kind of fun to figure out more about how the gear works. Has anyone tried this? I suppose that not very many people have a Q wing to do it with.

I imagine it would take some fiddling to figure out appropriate offsets for the "flaps" and regular elevator.

7x57
The elevator is kind of like flaps. I'm not sure how you would do it????

The short length of the wing will make it pitch down with flaps.

Keep it as light as possible.
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Old Yesterday, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Lee View Post
The elevator is kind of like flaps. I'm not sure how you would do it????
Right, that was my idea, the Q-Plane elevators are about the right place for flaps, and I think I should power them anyway so they stay put. So why not make them go down when I switch the flap lever?

I managed to set it up this evening. (Can you tell I'm burned out on work a bit and need a break?) It turned out to be pretty simple. When I installed the servos I arranged the control arms such that when connected with a Y cord they move in the same direction, since that's their function when I finish the Q-Plane. So I hooked up the Y cable and attached that to the Aux port on the receiver (Lemon Rx 6-channel), which the DX6i manual says is used for flaps. Then I just found the flaps menu item and dialed in some non-zero flap when in "landing" mode (switch on). It worked, but it also moved the rudder, which seemed strange. That was easy to correct when I realized that (1) the rudder is on the aileron port, and (2) obviously I must have left some kind of mix set when I was fooling around with it back when I got it. In any event, I went and cleared everything that looked silly and now the "flaps" move down whenever I switch the flap lever on without messing with the rudder. I clearly did have some wacky aileron mix set by accident.

Quote:
The short length of the wing will make it pitch down with flaps.
I had guessed the flaps would pitch it down, but I did a bit of googling and it seemed that some planes go one way and some the other so I wasn't sure what the Albatross would do.

It appears I can dial in any amount of up or down elevator I want to go with the flaps, so I suppose enough experimentation would find a setting that would keep her fairly neutral when the flaps are down. Unless the right setting turns out to be velocity dependent, but on full sized planes flaps are for low speeds anyway. I assume the same is true here unless there is aerobatic usage we're not ready to mess with anyway.

Interestingly, the flaps adjustment goes either way so it would be possible to dial in reflex that way as well, if there was some reason to do so.

Quote:
Keep it as light as possible.
Light as in a small flap deflection?

What I thought made sense would be to dial in a small flap setting and try it out well aloft at first, then fiddle with the elevator until the nose stays level when the flaps are engaged. And so on and so forth.

Really this doesn't make particular sense on a beginner plane, since the flap lever is just something to get bumped accidentally, but I'm kind of interested in what it will do. It ought to allow really slow landings, at least. Maybe photogenic sloooow passes in front of the flight line?

7x57
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Old Yesterday, 05:25 PM
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Joined Dec 2014
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Hi to everyone.
finally got my albatross kit through customs after paying VAT + extra UK delivery charges a week ago.Started the build following Lee's instructions & videos, went really well as there is so much detail for every aspect of building this plane . Got all recommended electronics-motor-props etc from Hobbyking as suggested. Also built it with pod mount. albatross is almost finished but not sure if i should goop the le of horizontal & vertical stab. Have really enjoyed building fhe Albatross & can't wait for my 1st attempt to fly it
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Old Yesterday, 11:06 PM
Lee
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Goop (or Shoe Goo) hinges work great. Just keep the glue hinge very thin so it is light and flexible. I have planes that have flown for years with goop hinges.

UK is one of the slowest and most expensive with the post and add on charges. I think about half of the slow deliveries we hear about are in the UK. Sorry....

I fly one of my Albatrosses night flying or FPV almost every week. It is a great all round design.

Lee
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