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Old Sep 28, 2012, 07:47 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwrivest View Post
Actually I think the "C" stands for "Current". If you have a 1000mah battery that is equal to 1 amp (1000 milliamps or 1000 thousandths of an amp equals 1 amp.) So you would charge a 1amp battery at 1 amp to equal 1 "C", a 750mah battery at .75 amps for 1 "C" etc. At least that's the way I have always understood it.

Gerard.
The "C" is a factor in relation to the Capacity of the battery. And if it refers to charging, the "C" rating tells you how many times the capacity of the battery in Amps you can safely charge the battery.
So:
If you have a 1000mAh battery then ...
... if you can charge at 1C, your max charge current will be 1A,
... if you can charge at 2C, your max charge current will be 2A,
... if you can charge at 3C, your max charge current will be 3A
... and so on.

If you dive a little deeper into the description on the HK site for lipos, you will find some, where HK talks about it being possible charging certain batteries at 8C ...
even though I would not dare to try that!

My personal rule of thumb is that any battery I cannot find a rating for I will NOT charge higher than 1C, actually every so and so many cycles I charge it a lot lower and see if that makes a difference in "the amount of mAh that I can put back into the battery".
With the nanotechs, I think I read you can charge them at 5C, so I now use 0.9A for my 300mAh mCPX batteries - as this should keep me waaaaaaaaaaaaay on the safe side, but only takes about 20min for them to charge ... (so this gets to almost close to flying indefinitely ... ...)
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:05 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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The Netherlands
Joined Jul 2010
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How about using a fix that was already used quite a while on the Solo Pro 260? Cutting off the weights on the flybar, in this case the weighted paddles, and put on some small collars of about 0.7 g weight. Balance it, and enjoy a more agile heli, with no flybar strikes.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:22 AM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreSG View Post
Thanks for confirming this! Great!

Now, if Helios 100 is fitted with the V911 flybar, it does not porpoise as much, but does it lose its speed?

Of course, the compromise when using V911 flybar is flybar strikes.
It does lose some speed but I feel for the increased agility and the no porpoising, it is worth it. This being said, it flies closer to a V911 but is still very different.
Still thinking of popping out the weights on the origional paddled FB and see how it reacts unless someone can validate how it flies.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:23 AM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan View Post
How about using a fix that was already used quite a while on the Solo Pro 260? Cutting off the weights on the flybar, in this case the weighted paddles, and put on some small collars of about 0.7 g weight. Balance it, and enjoy a more agile heli, with no flybar strikes.
Worth looking into for sure
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
Still thinking of popping out the weights on the origional paddled FB and see how it reacts unless someone can validate how it flies.
Try it and see what happens. I lost a weight out of an original V911 flybar so I picked out the other to see how it reacted and wasn't impressed. The flybar had basically no mass to it without the weight and wasn't easy to control. Since the paddled flybar has quite a bit of mass without the weights, it just might work!
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:54 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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I found out why I didn't get any mail from Banggood about my Helios order. Spam filter moved the messages to the wrong mailbox...
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 04:19 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
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my helios finally arrived

After nearly 6 weeks of waiting if finally arrived!

Really impressed with how stable it is, fly 4/5 battery's indoors and really happy with it!

Ventured outside with the kids and decide to try dual rate, my little boy said "daddy make it go higher than the trees" not wanting to disapoint I took it up and nearly lost it over the house behind us By the luck of the gods I managed to get it back to tera firma without any damage.

I'd read some other people talking about the nose diving in ff and suffered from this several times, is this caused by trying to go fwd too aggressively?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 04:51 PM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killer Bee View Post
Try it and see what happens. I lost a weight out of an original V911 flybar so I picked out the other to see how it reacted and wasn't impressed. The flybar had basically no mass to it without the weight and wasn't easy to control. Since the paddled flybar has quite a bit of mass without the weights, it just might work!
Tried without the weights - real bad. It was all over the place. Porpoising was more evident. I quit with this for now. On the shelf it goes.
Not spending any more time on this - just does not give me any enjoyment.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:38 AM
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Tucson, Az
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I have flown my Helios more and yes tail is quick. No big deal most F/P 4 ch heliis are very similar. Easy small movement of stick and all is well. It is a fine flyer and enjoy flying it. Mine is stock and not going to bash any other bird, nor frankencopter this heli. I feel padels work better than weighted flybars. The Helios is closest clone of T-Rex 100 out there. Both the Helios 100 and V911 are best bang for the buck to date. I give Helios a slight advantage in flying abality for someone who can fly a 4ch F/P. If you are coming from co-ax then V911 is a little better . Some like to tinker and modify what they have and fine. Some just have tunnel vision for T9X binding..thats fine. If you want a up to date new bird and having another TX is not issue ..don't pass this little Gem up. It looks good/ flys good/ and nice RTF package. Bang good is fine but do expect a long wait.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 10:59 AM
Flying mostly micro's
BlueHavoc's Avatar
United States, WV, Vienna
Joined Mar 2007
606 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankar04 View Post
I have flown my Helios more and yes tail is quick. No big deal most F/P 4 ch heliis are very similar. Easy small movement of stick and all is well. It is a fine flyer and enjoy flying it. Mine is stock and not going to bash any other bird, nor frankencopter this heli. I feel padels work better than weighted flybars. The Helios is closest clone of T-Rex 100 out there. Both the Helios 100 and V911 are best bang for the buck to date. I give Helios a slight advantage in flying abality for someone who can fly a 4ch F/P. If you are coming from co-ax then V911 is a little better . Some like to tinker and modify what they have and fine. Some just have tunnel vision for T9X binding..thats fine. If you want a up to date new bird and having another TX is not issue ..don't pass this little Gem up. It looks good/ flys good/ and nice RTF package. Bang good is fine but do expect a long wait.
I couldn't agree more! The v911 stock after coaxial and the Helios stock after you get a lttle experience. I love them BOTH very much you simply can't do better for such excellent flying & durable heli's when it comes to quality for the money. Best bang for your buck out there at the moment. These two little helis have changed the market in the micro RTF's. If the new WL FBL 100 CP is anything near the quality & flyability that the v911 was in it's class and the price comes in under $100 look out!...I was going to get the new nano cp to venture into CP but I decided to wait until the the WL comes out because my experience with the v911 changed everything for me. I'm not into all of the modding & stuff But I understand there are people that that is important to. I just like to fly. Ill do the occaisional simple mod but mostly I prefer them as they come because they fly great the way are (to me). The 9x thing isn't a always a dealbreaker for me either. If it happens to be great, but I've decided I'm not going to miss out on what could be a possibly great heli just because it isn't compatible! In this case (the Helios) I'm VERY glad I didn't let that stop me because it is an awesome little bird and the fact I was able to drop a v911 RX in it was icing on the cake. Best of both worlds & I couldn't be happier
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 02:09 PM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
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Well I gutted out the H100 and put it on a V911 frame.
Needed the board anyways. I put in the CF shaft, gear, swash and head from the H100 in also. Fit like a glove. Unfortunately I was unable to install the H100 motor as I was pushing it out of the frame and put to much pressure on the pinion area and popped the brushes and wiring plate out of the motor. Really wanted to see if this motor was different then the V911.
Flies great by the way Seems faster - might be due to the CF shaft and swash.
Looks like another source for parts - seems like everything is interchangeable except of course the batts, canopies and skids. I imagine one could use those also with some slight mods. This will probably be my last post on this thread as I truly do not have an H100 anymore.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 07:48 PM
Flying mostly micro's
BlueHavoc's Avatar
United States, WV, Vienna
Joined Mar 2007
606 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
Well I gutted out the H100 and put it on a V911 frame.
Needed the board anyways. I put in the CF shaft, gear, swash and head from the H100 in also. Fit like a glove. Unfortunately I was unable to install the H100 motor as I was pushing it out of the frame and put to much pressure on the pinion area and popped the brushes and wiring plate out of the motor. Really wanted to see if this motor was different then the V911.
Flies great by the way Seems faster - might be due to the CF shaft and swash.
Looks like another source for parts - seems like everything is interchangeable except of course the batts, canopies and skids. I imagine one could use those also with some slight mods. This will probably be my last post on this thread as I truly do not have an H100 anymore.
Sorry it didn't work out for you.! I'm loving mine more & more!
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 03:47 AM
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Italy, Lazio, Rome
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
Well I gutted out the H100 and put it on a V911 frame.
Needed the board anyways. I put in the CF shaft, gear, swash and head from the H100 in also. Fit like a glove. Unfortunately I was unable to install the H100 motor as I was pushing it out of the frame and put to much pressure on the pinion area and popped the brushes and wiring plate out of the motor. Really wanted to see if this motor was different then the V911.
Flies great by the way Seems faster - might be due to the CF shaft and swash.
Looks like another source for parts - seems like everything is interchangeable except of course the batts, canopies and skids. I imagine one could use those also with some slight mods. This will probably be my last post on this thread as I truly do not have an H100 anymore.
I was tempted to buy the helios canopy for my v911, Aaron qin reported that it'd fit. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=424
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 01:06 PM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
2,068 Posts
Bad crystal casued non binding

I received a non binding (DOA) Helios from BG a while ago. From flying and breaking numerous v911's, I know a common cause of binding issues is a bad crystal, so on a hunch I piggybacked a known working crystal from a bad v911 board to the Helios board and, after trying both polarities, got it to bind.

That's the good news, the bad news is that the servo response on the fixed board has a fairly pronounced lag; it is worse than the lag I'd noticed on the one makdaddy sent me (which has a different issue now). Not sure if it is a design flaw or just bad luck.
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Last edited by stonecutter; Oct 01, 2012 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 02:50 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Joined Aug 2011
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I have no idea how two crystals would work in parallel, assuming that the 1st crystal is not completely dead. So, if by adding a working crystal caused it to function, why not try cutting off the old one, and see if that will make a difference? Again, I don't know how it works. Just guessing out loud here.
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