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Old Jun 26, 2015, 03:40 PM
nagromnewo is offline
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umop apisdn - downside up
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United States, NC, Wilmington
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Originally Posted by _nicos View Post
Watch out for mechanical rotor from those trees!

I replaced the prop, adaptor and motor/mount straight up. Got rid of the internal platform to accommodate a bigger ESC (+ reverse) and added a rubber boot for the pushrod exit. I use 3S and 4S 1300mha batteries.

I sure have given thought to some tiny strakes, but otherwise a bit of rudder expo helps.

Go well
I looked closer at the model and I think I know why she's so directionally unstable. The bottom at the stern has a slight V shape. Because the model is so light, I think she will lean to one side or the other when she's on the plane and that will determine which direction she wants to go. Probably, she will go left when leaning left and right when leaning right because whichever side she's leaning to has more drag in the water. So, when the model wants to go right and I steer left, she will lean left and then that becomes the preferred direction.

Maybe some trim tabs at the stern (like full size powerboats) will solve it. (Or more weight in the model so she floats deeper and immerses the whole bottom at the stern when she's on the plane.) I only had 2S 850mAh Zippy Compact batteries to try her with, but I think I can cram in 1600mAh nano-techs if I remove the servo tray and mount the servo to the side.

I have the ESC out in the air on the left side of the propeller cage mounted with black cable ties. (I have a backgound in servicing yachts in the Carribean and from experience, I can tell you that black cable ties last three times as long in the sun as white ones.) I stripped the heat shrink and gave it a good squirt of CorrosionX HD and left it bare. I also took the receiver out of its box and gave it a healty squirt of CorrosionX HD and then put it back in the box and installed it on the underside of the seat box where it should stay dry unless the boat is inverted. I haven't done anything to the servo yet. I suppose the best is to take it apart and use a paint brush or Qtip to treat the circuitboard and motor with CorrosionX HD, but leave the potentiometer alone.

I really would prefer if I could get the model to go in a straight line when I'm hands off, particularly as I'd also like to use her to prepare my wife for learning to fly.

Owen
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 04:39 PM
Dennis Manning is offline
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I see you have a lot of posts. This means you are handy with rc enjoyments. You mention a v at the transom and would like it to go straight. Suggestion only and sounds dumb, how about building up the bottom so it will be all flat. I have at least 4 airboats of which 1 is boughten ( Anarchy ) and the rest are home made. Now if you were to lay a foot ruler across the bottom, how deep are the edges to the keel of the unit. I like to glide sideways and round the edges about a good 1/8". I found that placing lipos toward the outside edges inside for balance and works as intended. I know it sounds strange but that is the way I do things and till I think it is right, LOL! Old foggy at 78 and fell about 60 young. Have a good day! Tip- Offshoreelectics site is supposed to have 270 that Andy Kunz used on his brushed escs of which I have 3 of them which water proofs to no end.
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 06:38 PM
nagromnewo is offline
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umop apisdn - downside up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Manning View Post
I see you have a lot of posts. This means you are handy with rc enjoyments. You mention a v at the transom and would like it to go straight. Suggestion only and sounds dumb, how about building up the bottom so it will be all flat. I have at least 4 airboats of which 1 is boughten ( Anarchy ) and the rest are home made. Now if you were to lay a foot ruler across the bottom, how deep are the edges to the keel of the unit. I like to glide sideways and round the edges about a good 1/8". I found that placing lipos toward the outside edges inside for balance and works as intended. I know it sounds strange but that is the way I do things and till I think it is right, LOL! Old foggy at 78 and fell about 60 young. Have a good day! Tip- Offshoreelectics site is supposed to have 270 that Andy Kunz used on his brushed escs of which I have 3 of them which water proofs to no end.
The V is about 1/4" either side or 1/2" in total. If she was either flat or had a deeper V, she wouldn't have this problem. She's made of polypropylene or polyethylene (the same plastic that buckets and glue containers are made of), so getting anything to stick would probably be difficult. If I wanted to change the bottom, it would probably be easier to just build a new bottom.

Thanks for the other tips, I'll check out Offshore electrics.

Owen
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 10:13 PM
Dennis Manning is offline
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Mine are made of wood and I don't have such and not familiar in working with such material of which I based my info of on. I read where someone mentions trim tabs which will cancel gliding as t/tabs will hook the water. BTW- thanks for the posting the measurements of bottom. Best of luck!
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Old Jun 27, 2015, 11:37 PM
Chap1012 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Manning View Post
I see you have a lot of posts. This means you are handy with rc enjoyments. You mention a v at the transom and would like it to go straight. Suggestion only and sounds dumb, how about building up the bottom so it will be all flat. I have at least 4 airboats of which 1 is boughten ( Anarchy ) and the rest are home made. Now if you were to lay a foot ruler across the bottom, how deep are the edges to the keel of the unit. I like to glide sideways and round the edges about a good 1/8". I found that placing lipos toward the outside edges inside for balance and works as intended. I know it sounds strange but that is the way I do things and till I think it is right, LOL! Old foggy at 78 and fell about 60 young. Have a good day! Tip- Offshoreelectics site is supposed to have 270 that Andy Kunz used on his brushed escs of which I have 3 of them which water proofs to no end.
Dennis, Your hull design sounds very much like mine. It's really not a flat bottom like the "Dawg." My two tail rudders sit in the water about 1/4" I have the original plans for it so, this is the original design for this type of boat. She tracks very well. I'll post up some pics and I hope you can do the same for comparison.

Someone told me it was a California air/race boat style or something like that. I'm still researching this boat. I think it's about 35 years old or so.

IMHO, I don't think I would mess with the hull design. Just my 2¢

Mike.
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Old Jun 28, 2015, 03:39 PM
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Hi again Dennis. Here are some pics of my hull. I thought it might have more "V" to it but, it doesn't as you can see.
Boat specs: L=28" (25" w/o rudd)
Beam: 11 1/2"
RX: Sketrum AR400
Servo: Futaba S3004 (an oldie)
ESC: 60A (80A burst) BEC 6A
Power Up 480 (speed) 1400kv
Prop: 8X6 (not yet tested) but I had a 8X4 on a smaller motor.

Hey Guys, I just want to thank all of you "Dawg" owners for letting me post here. There is no other thread like this. I have learned so much from all of you.

Thank you all,
Mike.
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Old Jun 28, 2015, 04:27 PM
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I almost forgot to tell you this great tip I got from a young man down the street racing his gas speed car.

I got talking to him and I find out he also has a rock climber buggy that's electric (guys, this thing rocks) which he brought out and showed me.

He told me he travels 100 miles round trip to go to his favorite rock climbing track. Out there on the track he literary puts his vehicle through the gauntlet. Mud, water, rocks, logs, jumps, you name it.

I asked him about waterproofing his electrics. To my surprise, he told me all his Buddies use "vet tape." I said, "vet tape" huh? LOL, come to find out he was talking about liquid electrical tape. He showed me how to do all the electrics. He warned me not to apply it on the "whole" ESC as it wouldn't "breed." That's where I damned near fell on the street laughing (i'm kidding, it was hard to hold it in). Most, if not all ESC's has that clear plastic shrink wrap so, you just do the ends where the wires come out on each end.

Has anybody else ever heard of doing this?

Mike.
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Old Jun 28, 2015, 10:33 PM
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Done esc's that way with hot glue.
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Old Jun 28, 2015, 10:52 PM
Chap1012 is offline
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Originally Posted by Foamaholic View Post
Done esc's that way with hot glue.
Yeah, I guess that would seal'er up too...

Mike.
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Old Jun 28, 2015, 11:26 PM
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Ain't crashing often anymore
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I'm using the already waterproofed Trackstar 30A ESC.

I was adding a boot to the pushrod and sealing the hole for the motor wires with hot glue, too.

No way to balance the stock prop, so a prop saver mount and a 5x5 prop took care of the jello on the footage.
The balanced prop probably solves the often mentioned problem of motor coming loose. For the peace of mind I additionally treated all screws with Loctite.

The 3s Zippy 1300 packs do a good job in this toy, too.



-mike-
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Old Jun 29, 2015, 08:08 AM
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Germany, RP, Weißenthurm
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Here is my newest vid: Swampi with Onboard Camera
HobbyKing Swamp Dawg Air Boat (ARR): onboard (3) (4 min 39 sec)
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Old Jun 29, 2015, 08:19 AM
Dennis Manning is offline
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Chap; I soak my T-120 in Corrosion-X and let dry for a day or so and works great under water or go to Offshoreelectrics and get some 270 water proofing like Andy Kunz used on his brushed escs and still today many of mine still waterproof. I just remove shrink and spray on. Rx's too get a shot of X.------ Off topic, I bought a new Tactic tx/rx and was fooling around and tried the tx on the old rx's and worked great. I have many old rx's for spares. I tried my private message option and something is screwed up.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 12:30 PM
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Guys, I know what we're going to do this weekend!

Thanks to the other posters for inspiring me to put lights on this.

I'm running mine off of a Pololu 12v step-up regulator (2s battery) controlled with a Pololu RC switch.

Phineas and Ferb are 2" figures from eBay. Perry is still in the mail.
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Old Jul 04, 2015, 05:23 PM
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Canada, AB, Calgary
Joined Jul 2012
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Hi just picked one of these looks fun, plus put it to work as a rescue machine.
Prior to that I still need to put it together (I have lots to with,electronics).

I see some built with the steering sero in the hull, others have it strapped to the engine mount.

Either will work, is one better that the other? My guess is lots of water proofing if its outside, how do those products hold up?

The weight with the servo back and up, does that work out ok or maybe that doesn't factor in??
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